Update from the President

Posted on April 13, 2017 by to News | No Comments

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Dear CAWA members,

It has been a long while since I last communicated with you. In the past year I was travelling for work more than originally anticipated. Other Committee members were out of town too, which slowed down our activities somewhat late last year.

Now we are all back and active. We had a fun Quarry Crash at Mountain Quarry, a highly successful (and at times scary) film night at Rosie O’Grady’s, and a well-attended trip to Mount Frankland, which was less wet than previous years. Ten of our members enjoyed the free tickets we received to the Telluride Mountainfilm in Fremantle and others claimed reduced entry for CAWA members. We have another Quarry Crash upcoming, as well as the Peak Charles Trip in April and a Clean-Up Day at Copper Rocks in May. And then, there will be the AGM in June – we are currently working on speakers and event details and will let you know as soon as we can when, where, and what.

The Committee also has been climbing, although some of us more than others. The greatest offenders in defaulting on the duty to send at least one climb between committee meetings are, cough, the President and Vice President. I have managed to get outdoors a few times since returning from travels in Europe, and sent enough climbs to be readmitted to the “Subcommittee on Sending”. Purists on the Committee questioned my ethics on the onsight of the controversial “Harry Humpkin and the Exploding Pumpkin (West Cape Howe, 19): I did clip the newly placed bolts in the lower part of the climb. The rest of the Committee have been busy climbing anywhere from Tasmania to Margaret River and the local quarries, doubtlessly ignoring shiny bolts if there was a trad placement nearby.

Speaking of bolting: One of the chief results of the survey we conducted last year was that there is overwhelming support for the establishment of a bolting fund. We have thus resolved to establish such a fund (see separate blog post) to help make our local crags safer.

Another big non-climbing task which has kept us busy is the reform of our Constitution, mandated under the new association law, but also long overdue in order to modernise some of our more archaic rules (the location of the Perth Central Post Office plays an incredibly large role in the current rules governing the way we operate, for example – most of us don’t even know where it is located). It has turned out to be quite a big job to adjust the old rules to the new regulations and to modernise all references to snail mail, the signing of checks, and the like, but we will get it done well ahead of the AGM, where members will be able to vote on the new set of rules.

Speaking of the AGM: one of the changes the new law suggests is to align the membership year with the financial year. Currently, our financial year is from AGM to AGM, while the membership year is the normal financial year. The easiest way to fix this anomaly is to push back the AGM this year from April to June. We are still working on the exact date and venue, but will let you know as soon as we can.

One of the main tasks of the AGM is to elect a new Committee. We have had a fairly stable Committee this past year, with only two resignations for family reasons. We have just recently co-opted a new member, Anthony Brandis, who has been part of a previous CAWA Committee and has come back for more. This means  that we have one vacancy at present. A core group of the current Committee will re-nominate, including key office holders. If elected, these core members of the Committee will ensure continuity of work between the 2016-17 and the 2017-18 Committees.

Regrettably, I will not be among the re-nominees. I have accepted a position in Melbourne, and will move in early July, just after the AGM.

If you have been toying with the idea of coming on board of the Committee, if you would like the Committee to organize things that have not happened this year (such as training courses, which have fallen by the wayside at present, but should be resurrected), or if you have entirely new ideas for what CAWA could and should do – now is a good time to put up your hand to join. If you are thinking about it but need more information, do not hesitate to contact me on marke@climberswa.asn.au or chat to me when you see me at one of the gyms or local crags.

Meanwhile, we hope to see many of you at the upcoming events. Enjoy climbing, stay safe, and check your knot before you leave the ground.

 

Mark Edele

CAWA President

CAWA BOLTING FUND

Posted on April 12, 2017 by to News | No Comments

Dodgy Bolt

Dodgy Bolt

A survey conduced among climbers in 2016 showed that there is widespread support in the WA climbing community for establishing a re-bolting fund. Such a fund can model itself on what exists in other states (Climbing Club of Tasmania and Sydney Rockclimbing Club).

Reacting to the growing groundswell, CAWA has now moved to establish the CAWA Bolting Fund, which provides selected applicants with additional funds to assist with re-bolting projects.

What is re-bolting? Anybody who has climbed  in WA will have noticed that the standard of bolting is varied and that there are number of routes with rusted or otherwise dangerous bolts (see photo). CAWA encourages the replacement of such bolts. The CAWA Bolting Fund provides assistance in this process.

CAWA does not encourage the placing of new bolts on established routes (“retro-bolting”), but only the replacement of already existing bolts. An exception are anchor bolts to decrease erosion.

How does the CAWA Bolting Fund work? The CAWA Committee has allocated  $2,000.00 in 2016 to the Bolting Fund and will review further financial commitments to the Fund in years to follow. The granting of funds is discretionary. The Committee will decide on a case-to-case basis on applications received. Route rebolters must follow CAWA’s Code of Bolting and New Route Development.  Applications may take a number of weeks to be processed.  Not all applications will be successful due to the limited funds available.

Climbers who know of a route that requires re-bolting, or want to apply for a re-bolting project, should complete the Online application form (coming soon) or write to bolting@climberswa.asn.au.

The climbing community is encouraged to make donations to the CAWA Bolting Fund as follows:

Bolting Fund
Bankwest
BSB: 306 188
Account No: 0203707

Members are reminded that CAWA hosts a forum topic called Bolting on the CAWA website.  Members and other climbers are encouraged to report dodgy bolts they encounter on this website.

Disclaimers:

  • Climbing is a dangerous activity.
  • Rebolting does not make climbing a safe activity.
  • CAWA does not engage in rebolting.
  • CAWA does not vouch the safety of any rebolted routes.
  • All climbers should know how to assess the safety of bolts.
  • All climbers climb rebolted routes at their own risk.

 

Contacts:

Online application form (coming soon)

 

Peak Charles – 14th-17th April

Posted on March 27, 2017 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Peak Charles Trip

Registration is now open!

Friday, 14th April to Monday, 17th April 20017 (Easter Weekend)

Please be aware that the weather and numbers are the deciding factors of this trip and if it is still raining (down south) shortly before the trip then the rock will be unclimbable and the trip will be cancelled. The final decision will be made on Tuesday, 11th April. Until then think positive and make  your daily sacrifices to the rain gods.

Peak Charles  is a massive granite dome in the Peak Charles National Park, approximately 800 – 900 km east of Perth, depending on which route is taken.  It is south-east of Norseman and north-north-west of Esperance.  It is worth every hour of driving for the excellent rock and multi-pitch routes.  Climbs range from grade 11 to 27 and up to 5 or 6 pitches, so can suit all tastes. It is predominantly trad climbing. See the online mini-guides for more information about the routes. We shall be camping at the DPaW campsite at Peak Charles, where facilities are basic (drop toilet only) and there is no running water so everyone will need to be completely self-sufficient.  Access to the area involves either a few hundred km of dirt road via Lake King, or about 50 km of dirt from the Coolgardie-Esperance Highway.  A 4WD is handy, but as long as there has not been a lot of rain, the road is passable in a normal car if care is taken. We shall keep participants posted about weather conditions closer to the time.

'Mediterranean Cruise'

‘Mediterranean Cruise’

Multi-pitch routes mean that at least one person on the rope needs to know what they are doing. We’d love to see you there, but it’s important to understand that climbing at PC is not suited to beginners unless they are accompanied by an appropriately experienced person. This area is not well suited to setting up top ropes and lead climbing (mostly trad) is generally required to access routes. CAWA is not able to provide training due to liability issues and so all climbers on the trip must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves.  Any inexperienced climbers, or participants under the age of 18 must have a parent, guardian or other responsible person to accompany them. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Please register your interest soon by emailing me at dirkk@climberswa.asn.au.

I will then send you a questionnaire to complete as well as more detailed information.

I will do my best to assist members to organise car pooling.

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.

All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, Peak Charles is not a beginner’s crag. If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information or e-mail me.

Feel free to contact us if you want to register.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Membership Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Mob : +61 (0)400248815

Mount Frankland Trip Report

Posted on March 12, 2017 by to Events, News, Social, Trip Reports | 1 Comment

Mt Frankland Trip Report

Saturday, 4 March 2017 to Monday, 6 March 2017

Notwithstanding the dire predictions of rain, members who attended the trip were rewarded with three fun days of climbing.

The Monday in particular saw Mt Frankland in prime condition, perhaps a tad on the warm side, but dry as a bone.

Last year saw the trip being cancelled twice due to the poor weather conditions.  So this is the first time CAWA had been down to Mt Frankland as a trip since 2015, which was great as I have been hanging out to head to Mt Frankland to have a crack at Hannibal.

Mt Frankland team members included as follows:

  • Dirk Klicker
  • Lucy Foote
  • Linda Antoncich
  • Neal Antoncich
  • Pip Ravn
  • Lilly Wong
  • Anya Greenfield
  • Maya Mallett
  • Bryant Ware
  • Anna Maddocks

There were a few last-minute cancellations with some questionable excuses.  I have made up only one of the excuses listed below:

  • I’m having problems with my car.
  • There’s an election on next weekend.
  • Something came up at work that I have to resolve.
  • The dog ate my homework.

For the record: There’s usually plenty of people offering a lift on CAWA trips.  There’s an election every year.  There’s plenty of time to do work and redo your homework driving there and back.

The first day, Saturday, saw us climbing in the clouds.  The headwall looked ominous in the mist.  But, the main thing was the rock was dry enough and we were all climbing and having fun.  Hurray!  The rain held out for most of the day before it started to drizzle.  Everyone got some classic Mt Frankland slab climbing under their belts.  Then headed back to camp for dinner, where I was super jealous of Pip’s $13 steaks, whereas I had the standard-last-minute-pack-can of beans.

It didn’t rain all night and the second day looked to be epic.  We got off to a lazy and slow start to give the rock time enough to try from the drizzle the afternoon before.  But, when we got there, to our dismay, it was totally wet.  Completely unclimbable.  Mt Frankland must have been the only place to have been rained on, in the whole of the South West.  So it was off to Plan B, Monkey Rock.  When we got there, Monkey Rock was absolutely baking in the sun and the march flies were running rampant.  The weather contrast between the crags was amazing.  The team pretty much climbed all the new sport routes on offer.  Monkey Rock really does make a fun second option if Mt Frankland is wet.

The weather improved steadily and for the third day, Monday, the weather was perfect, maybe a tad warm.  We got off to an early start and everyone got a bunch of climbing done.  The perfect way to end the trip indeed.

Honourable mentions on the trip included:

  • The wife (Melissa Klicker) for looking after the twins while I was climbing:)
  • All for braving the poor weather predictions.
  • All for braving the march flies.
  • Lucy for helping me read the mini-guides, doing quite a few leads and her first 18.
  • Lilly, Anya and Maya for coming all the way down to climb on Saturday. My hat goes off to you.
  • Linda’s effortless second of Hannibal. It’s all in the foot work.
  • Anna’s huge grin on topping out on Monkey Puzzle, Monkey Rock.
  • Pip’s euphoric cries on finding a certain undercling hold.
  • Anna and Bryant for trying to forge a new path to the back of Monkey Rock.
  • Bryant for preparing for his thesis interview on the drive down and back.

Anyway it was fun trip all round and hope to see you all again on the next trip to Mt Frankland.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Membership Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Mob : +61 (0)400248815

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mount Frankland Trip – 4th-6th March

Posted on February 20, 2017 by to Events, Social | 3 Comments

Mount Frankland Trip

Registration is now open!

Saturday, 4th March to Monday, 6th March 2017 (Labour Day Long Weekend)

Please be aware that the weather is the deciding factor on this trip and if it is still raining (down south) shortly before the trip then the rock will be unclimbable and the trip will be cancelled. The final decision will be made on Wednesday, 1st March. Until then think positive and make  your daily sacrifice to the rain gods.

Mt Frankland is located in the Mt Frankland National Park and is about 30km north of Walpole. It’s quite a drive from Perth, probably 5 hours give or take, but in my opinion it’s well worth it.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Your CAWA trip coordinators for this trip is Dirk Klicker.

The climbing is mainly bolted slab, with many routes up to 3 pitches long. So it is good if you are looking to gain some multi-pitch experience. The routes tend to be run-out, so people need to be fairly confident leading at the stated grade. Generally on CAWA trips there will be enough people around to lead the routes so that everyone can have a go. Most of the routes are bolted, but some require a mix of bolted and natural protection. Bolt plates will be required.

There is a variety of grades starting from about 15 and up. So there is something for everyone.

The West Australian Rock or the South Coast Rock Guidebooks are a good reference. There is some information on the CAWA website at the link Mt Frankland New Climbs or at On-line Guides/Mt Frankland.

The camping area is called Fernhook Falls and it is a well set up campground (this means tents) with drop toilets, a nice undercover kitchen area and a lovely river nearby for smelly climbers to brave at the end of the day (there are no shower facilities). It does get cold overnight, so pack warm. On past trips the march flies have been out in force, so some good, strong insect repellent is also recommended in case we are unlucky again this year.

There is no pre-booking, so it’s a first come first served situation. We do not expect it to be full.

If you need directions please send Dirk an e-mail.

You do need to bring your own food and drinking water for this trip but you can leave the shovel behind (there is a tap in the kitchen that feeds from a rainwater tank for cooking/washing dishes). Walpole is not that far away (about 35km) if you do need supplies and there is other more salubrious accommodation around. There are minimal camping fees ($7 per night per person/$5 concession). The rangers come around and check.

Remember to bring your own firewood.

If you interested e-mail Dirk and he will send you a registration form to confirm that you will be attending.

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.

All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, Mt Frankland is a good beginner’s crag. If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information.

Feel free to contact us if you want to register.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Membership Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Mob : +61 (0)400248815

Heaps Cheap ,$8, CAWA Gym Crash at City Summit on Thursday 23/02/17

Posted on February 06, 2017 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Dear CAWA Members,

The next CAWA Gym Crash will be held at City Summit, 2/26 Harris Rd Malaga.

Starts around 6:00pm on Thursday 23/02/17.

Special CAWA member entry cost is $8. Small additional cost for pizza.

The Perth Rock Climbing Guide will be available for purchase ($25). It would be appreciated if you could bring the exact amount.

Looking forward to seeing you all there.

Cheers

Gareth Wood
CAWA committee member

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CAWA Christmas BBQ – Blackwall Reach

Posted on November 30, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | 2 Comments

CAWA would like to invite you to the annual Christmas BBQ! So grab your climbing shoes and enjoy the evening with us at Point Walter.

Date: Sunday 11th December 2016.

Activities: Climbing, eating, meeting with other climbers.

Time: 4.30pm onwards for bouldering at Blackwall Reach. BBQ provided from 6.30pm.

What CAWA will supply: Nibbles, meat, salad, buns, sauce, plates and plastic cutlery.

What to bring: Drinks, anything else you want to eat, chairs, blankets, mozzie repellent, climbing shoes and chalk bag. If you have gear for ball games like cricket, soccer or volleyball please bring it along to provide alternate fun for those not bouldering.

Directions: Come down Honour Rd on the left side of Pt Walter Reserve, going straight through the roundabout at Carroll Drive and continuing on past the tennis courts. On your right you will see a kid’s playground, some parking and BBQ’s that are quite close to the road. We will be in that general area, fairly close to the road. On your left, if you follow the path down to the water, you will find a long expanse of limestone wall conveniently placed for your bouldering pleasure.

Cost: Free for members (please bring your membership card).
$10 non-members (or you can join up on the CAWA website before the day).

RSVP: Please RSVP by the 10th December. All RSVPs to cawa@climberswa.asn.au. Please let us know if you have specific dietary requirements, we will do our best to meet those requirements.

Guide books and CAWA t-shirts will also be available for sale on the day, please bring correct change – $25.00.

We look forward to seeing you all there!

Nathan Cole
CAWA Committee Member

CAWA Albany Trip Monday, 26 December – Sunday, 1 January

Posted on November 16, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

CAWA ALBANY TRIP!!!

The Christmas/New Year trip to Albany is almost here!

The dates this year will be Monday, 26 December 2016 to Sunday, 1 January 2017.

The climbing possibilities are endless: The Stirling Ranges, Porongurups and all of the areas around Albany. Magnificent West Cape Howe is a popular destination, along with Peak Head. There is also no shortage of hiking in the area, including the spectacular (and strenuous) ridge walk between Bluff Knoll and Ellen Peak in The Stirlings.

Accommodation will be booked in a lovely spot just out of Albany, to enable good access to all of the climbing areas.

We usually head into town for a feed on New Year’s Eve and a booking will made at Rustlers Steakhouse again this year, where we have had good food and speedy service the last couple of times.

We are doing our best to create opportunities for beginner climbers where we can. However, this particular trip is not well suited to beginners unless they are accompanied by an appropriately experienced person who assumes total responsibility for looking after them. This is partly due to everyone being spread out over different areas but also the nature of some of the climbing and skills required to access certain areas.

Important accommodation info:

We often have some flexibility with bookings but due to this being peak season, I have to confirm the numbers very soon, to ensure we have enough sites. If members want to be sure of getting a spot, then they need to let me know by Friday 2 December 2016.

Please note that CAWA trips are only open to current members. Not a member but keen to come along? Join online via this link: Become a CAWA member.

To register for the trip, please email me at: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au. Please include: how many in your group and their names, number of tents and roughly what size they are (i.e. 2, 3, 4 person tent). If you want to stay on until 2 January, let me know and I’ll see what I can do. Each person will need to complete a trip registration form but for now I just need numbers.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Memberships Officer

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced members you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Climb in WA. 1st. Brian Tan on Dancing the Deep Blue (26) WCH. ROSS WEITER

CAWA Guidebook Plagiarism Update and Resolution

Posted on November 15, 2016 by to News | 3 Comments

CAWA Guidebook Plagiarism Update and Resolution

CAWA has been seeking to resolve a situation of plagiarism of the CAWA Perth Climbing Guidebook. The current CAWA Committee has inherited this issue and believes that an acceptable resolution has now been reached.

This post is to update and notify you of the outcome.

A brief summary:

In 2013 Shane Richardson published a new guidebook to the Perth region, which reproduced significant sections of the CAWA guidebook. He had been notified in a letter by CAWA prior to the publication of his guide that the CAWA guide is under copyright. Shane had not sought nor obtained permission to reproduce these sections.

The previous CAWA Committee sought legal advice, which confirmed that plagiarism had indeed taken place. In two letters, a lawyer representing CAWA asked Shane to cease promotion and sales of his guide and to confirm in writing that he will not in future use material under CAWA copyright. Shane answered to the first but not the second letter. The guidebook continued to be sold.

It should be noted that significant effort has gone into the creation of the CAWA guidebook and the guidebook was a significant source of revenue for CAWA prior to the publication of Shane’s guide.  CAWA guidebook revenue has halved since the introduction of Shane’s guidebook.

The 2016 CAWA Committee considered the options in regards to this matter. It was decided that – barring litigation, which could be lengthy, divisive for the climbing community, and costly – the legal avenues had now been exhausted.  The key driver was loss of ongoing income to CAWA through reduced sales, and the ongoing benefit Shane has gained through copying CAWA produced information.

The CAWA Committee therefore sought a meeting with Shane to find a way forward.  On 16 August of this year, CAWA Committee member Remi Vignals and CAWA President Mark Edele met with Shane to discuss the situation. At the meeting Shane advised that he had not received the second letter in full. There is no record of any follow up from the previous Committee regarding Shane’s receipt of the letter. Remi and Mark provided Shane a copy of the letter which advised that plagiarism has occurred. Three options were offered to Shane to settle the issue:

  • Admission that he copied sections of the CAWA guidebook. Agreement to financially compensate CAWA for damages by making a donation to the re-bolting fund, and agree to work with CAWA in the future to ensure this does not happen again.
  • No financial contribution but admission that he copied the material from the CAWA guidebook and to work with CAWA in the future to ensure this does not happen again.
  • No agreement that CAWA material was plagiarized. As a gesture of good will, he would make a donation to the CAWA re-bolting fund.

After some follow up by email with Shane a resolution has been reached. The settlement of the conflict between Shane and CAWA regarding plagiarism of the CAWA guidebook is as follows:

Shane admits that he made a mistake in not asking for permission to reprint copyrighted material from the CAWA guide and he will work with CAWA in the future to ensure that this does not occur again. The CAWA Committee, in turn, accepted this admission and will not pursue the issue further. The invitation to make a financial contribution to the re-bolting fund remains. Such a gesture would be welcomed by the Committee, and would be acknowledged as a follow-up to this post.

Any financial contribution would go towards the re-bolting fund CAWA is in the process of establishing. It uses CAWA funds to help increase the safety of routes in the state. By raising revenue for CAWA, buying the CAWA guidebook contributes to this initiative to increase the safety of routes in the state.

I hope that everybody can accept this compromise. It was the Committee’s judgment that it would be in the best interest of everybody involved to move forward rather than to look back.

 

Mark Edele

CAWA President

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CAWA trip to Wilyabrup/ Margaret River Friday 25 – Sunday 27 November

Posted on November 08, 2016 by to News | No Comments

CAWA’s Wilyabrup trip (Margaret River area) is coming up fast! Sorry members have not been emailed yet, we have a problem with the email system :(.

The user-friendly sea cliffs at Wilys have a whole range of grades and are great for both more and less experienced climbers – and arranging top ropes is straightforward. To sign up, please email me Peter Thomas on petert@climberswa.asn.au, and do it asap – very latest is 12 noon Wednesday 23rd Nov.

Please note that CAWA trips have to be for CAWA members only – but you could apply for membership now and be in time (find out how under “About” on CAWA home page). Sorry, no exceptions to this for partners or family members – for insurance reasons, amongst others.

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Hope to see you there!

Peter Thomas, CAWA Committee Member

Hope_Wilys_Dec12