CAWA Eaglestone Trip:  4th – 6th August

Posted on July 30, 2017 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Dear Members,

It’s time to grab your winter woollies and pack up your car for a trip to the Wheatbelt to Eaglestone Rock. A 3.5 hour drive from Perth will take you to bulletproof  granite with good face climbing and edge. With over 30 bolted, trad and mixed routes there is something for everyone. Abseil stations are positioned on top of the major boulders. There are a number of fantastic routes including **Wishbone (17), **Capachow (19), * Pink Rings (18) ** and Ithica (22). So be sure to check out your Perth Rock Climbing Guide for route and access information.

Camping at Eaglestone is super easy, with the campground only a stone’s throw away from the crag. There is the luxury of a drop toilet, so no need to pack a shovel. However, there are no other facilitates or water so you will need to be completely self-sufficient. A guide of what to bring:

  • Cooking & camping gear, including plenty of water
  •  Firewood – there isn’t any to be collected from the ground, so we ask each car to bring firewood (it will be very cold at night, a camp fire will make the weekend infinitely warmer!)
  • Toilet paper
  • Warm clothing for night

You don’t need a 4WD but there is a short section of dirt road, followed by a section of good sand track easily accessible by 2WD. Most people will be travelling there Friday evening or Saturday morning.

Please note that CAWA trips are only open to current members. Non-members who are interested in coming can join online here: http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/membership/

To register for the trip, please email me kateb@climberswa.asn.au and I will send through a registration form. Also happy to answer any queries you have via email.

Hope you see you there!

Cheers

Kate Bailue
CAWA Treasurer & Trip Organiser

2017 AGM Photo Comp Winners

Posted on July 13, 2017 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

2017 AGM Photo Comp Winners
Thank you to all those who entered photos in this years AGM photo comp, and a big thank you to our sponsors for donating prizes: Rockface, The Hangout and Tnut Climbing.

Climbing in WA

Winner: Jonas Hollingworth of Sam Davies climbing Kaching (22), Coyanarup Peak.

Second Jiri Stastny of Izzy Jean Burgoyne climbing Sparrow (17), Eaglestone Rock

Third Rob Kettels of Rob Kettels climbing The Climb (18), West Cape Howe

Climbing Everywhere Else

Winner Peter Zhang of Anh Abvu climbing The Cave Route, Indian Creek

Second Peter Zhang of Sam Jones climbing The Initiation, Mt Buffalo

Third Mark Edele of Elizabeth Gralton climbing Sweet Dreams (14), Katoomba Cliffs

Kate Bailue
CAWA Treasurer

Kalbarri Trip Report – June 2017

Posted on July 05, 2017 by to Trip Reports | No Comments

The 2017 CAWA trip to Kalbarri was held over the WA Day long weekend in June. Remi, Elizabeth, Mark, Debbie and Anna set off in convoy on Friday morning from Perth, stopping at Jurien Bay for lunch where we met Benjamin, who was about to have his first climbing experience at one of the best climbing destinations in Western Australia. This group, plus Andrew, the keen boulderer from Geraldton, arrived at Murchison House Station in the evening and set up camp next to the river. Andrew won our hearts by promptly and efficiently making a fire and we settled down to drink, eat and toast marshmallows, all the while accompanied by a splish-splosh soundtrack of fish mysteriously jumping about in the river below.

Debbie on 9-6=3. A popular trad 15 at the Adventure Wall.

By Saturday morning we had been joined by Kate, Bruno, Jorge, Squeak, Craig and Antony. We set off for the Z-Bend and hiked into the gorge, complete with two bouldering mats, the largest of which was imposed on newcomer Benjamin in something resembling a bizarre initiation rite. Luckily, he had come equipped with fully two litres of milk to help him endure this ordeal. For some of us the day was spent at the Adventure Wall where top ropes were set up on “6-9=3” and “Peanut Butter and Jam” for some of the less experienced climbers to have a dangle around. Remi led “Hmmm…” and gallantly belayed at least three people up after him. Meanwhile Mark and Elizabeth played around on “Rattler”, with varying degrees of success. The youngest member of the party, Anna, fell, fully dressed, into the river.

Elizabeth on Rattler 22**

 

Ben first initiation to Rock Climbing

The evening was spent around the campfire, cooking damper and discussing the pitfalls and tribulations of a certain online dating service. Poor Antony, who had spent the day lying comatose on the gorge floor, returned from the Kalbarri hospital with a diagnosis of bowel infection and some pharmaceuticals. Benjamin had left us to embark on a sadly fruitless fishing expedition.

Poor Antony feeling ill at the Adventure Wall

Day Two of climbing saw us turn right at the bottom of the descent gully into the gorge and make our way to the Phantom Wall. Remi set up some top rope anchors on some of his ridiculously sandbagged routes in order to make everyone feel dejected while Mark led “Wombat Amnesia”, followed by Andrew, who made some very strange noises and left a creditable amount of blood on the wall but arrived at the top convinced, we think, of the merits of climbing rocks that are bigger than boulders. While Remi put on his mountain guide cap once again and belayed Craig, Debbie and Squeak up “Wombat Amnesia”, Elizabeth exhausted herself on Scoops of Fruits (20) and decided that she definitely didn’t want to lead it, followed by Kate and Mark who were of the same mind. We watched Bruno and Jorge  struggling to place gear on “Flipping Berries” (allegedly 18) as they loudly cursed the man who had established the line.

Remi sandbagging himself on Flipping Berries 18*

Next on the agenda was a quick skinny-dip in the nearby swimming hole before hiking out of the gorge towards dinner and beer. That evening was spent being entertained by the hitherto unrevealed talents of Bruno, who, it turns out, has a certain amount of skill in the art of animal imitation. Urged on by the exhortations of the expedition’s 8-year-old, he gave us impressions of almost every imaginable beast, from butterfly to numbat to onion mite.

On Monday morning we broke up camp and set off south towards Perth via Geraldton, where most of the crew reconvened one last time for burgers. On the journey home, outgoing CAWA president Mark and family took their last opportunity to visit the Pinnacles before leaving WA, and Elizabeth and Remi tagged along.

The predominant revelation of the weekend was that Remi, our trip organiser, has missed his vocation as a climbing guide. His enthusiasm for, and knowledge of climbing in Kalbarri is possibly unparalleled and his patience and planning helped made the weekend enjoyable for everyone.

Trip report by Elizabeth Gralton.

CAWA Family Lunch at the Adventure Wall

 

Remi on Keith Goes Blank 15***

Photo Credits: Andrew Outhwaite

Gym Crash @ The Hangout 11/07/17

Posted on July 03, 2017 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Hello CAWA Climbers

The next CAWA Gym Crash will be held at The Hangout 12 White St Bayswater WA 6053.

Starts around 6:00 on 11/07/17 – Tuesday Night .

Special CAWA member entry cost is $10. Special Note: pizza is being supplied!!! As well as some great giveaways!

A reminder though memberships do need to be renewed – so jump on the website to renew for the 2017/18 CAWA Year… going to be a good one! Renew or join here.

Looking forward to seeing you all there.

All the regular facilities will be available, so this is a good opportunity to pick up another training session for the week, or just hangout for a with a great bunch of people.

Date: Tue 11/07/17
Time: From 6:00
Location: The Hangout, 12 White St Bayswater WA 6053
BYO: Climbing shoes, chalk, harness and rope if you want to lead climb

Seeya there!

Anthony Brandis

CAWA Committee Member

Hangout gym crash

Tags:

CAWA MEMBERSHIP RENEWAL NOTICE 2017/2018

Posted on June 28, 2017 by to News, Social | No Comments

Jon Gregg on Karma (25) at Castle Rock, Porongorups

Calling all CAWA members!

It’s that time of year again (EOFY).

Your CAWA membership will expire after 30 June 2017!

It is now possible to renew your membership online at the CAWA website at the following link: CAWA membership 2017/2018.

Reminder that when you renew your membership you can also make a donation to the new CAWA Bolting Fund or for a limited time you can buy a Perth guidebook and t-shirt combo for $30.00.

By way of other news, the new committee (voted in at the AGM on 21 June 2017) had it’s first meeting on 28 June 2017 and the CAWA events calendar  for the next financial year will be posted on-line shortly including a number of climbing trips, gym crashes, film nights, outdoor training and trip to Mount Arapiles.

Reminder there is the CAWA Film Night 2.0 is on 6 July 2017 at Rosie O’Gray’s at 205 James Street, Northbridge.   Get there early as seating is limited!

For life members and for those of you who plan ahead and already hold memberships for the 2017/2018 year you can ignore this post.

It usually takes a week or two to process memberships and get cards posted, so if you need your membership before your card arrives, simply print off the tax receipt you receive from RegisterNow.

Any questions or problems, don’t hesitate to drop me an email me at dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Safe Climbing!

Cheers,

Dirk Klicker

Memberships Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

 

Climbers’ Association of Western Australia
PO Box 7125, Cloisters Square, WA, 6850
email : cawa@climberswa.asn.au
web : www.climberswa.asn.au
fb: www.facebook.com/climberswa

CAWA Annual General Meeting 6:00pm on Wednesday, 21 June 2017

Posted on June 01, 2017 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Malcolm Matheson

Malcolm Matheson on the first ascent (in 1994) of The Great Shark Hunt (30), perhaps the hardest pure crack climb in Australia. Mount Buffalo, Victoria.

Reminder to all CAWA members!  

We know everyone is busy and that it’s easy to forget about upcoming events, so this is just a reminder that the AGM is coming up very soon, on Wednesday, 21 June 2017.

If you are not coming to the AGM you must get your proxy form (2017AGMProxyForm.doc) in!  No excuses.  If you are not sure about who to give your proxy to contact us at cawa@climberswa.asn.au.

All current members other than the most recently joined will have received their AGM invitation and proxy form by post.

New members will receive these by e-mail once it is too close for snail mail.

We are very pleased to have Malcolm Matheson as our keynote speaker. Malcolm aka “HB” is one of the legends of Australian climbing, not only with an impressive tick list and first ascents but also the style in which a lot of these were completed in. Malcolm’s FA of Serpentine (31), the hardest route by an Australian at the time (1988), was done in his typical ground up style. It is rarely repeated without pre-inspection and pre-placed gear at the crux. His FA in 1993 of Welcome To Barbados (29), a 50m trad roof in the Grampians which has the climber upside down for most of the route, was done ground up on his second attempt. Malcolm is also noted to have made his own gear, such as the micro cams in the 1980’s when manufacturers said smaller sizes were not possible. Malcolm is the epitome of strength, style and ethics in Australian climbing and his presentation is not to be missed.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: If you are not able to attend, please e-mail the completed proxy form (2017AGMProxyForm.doc) to us at cawa@climberswa.asn.au ASAP. Without quorum, we cannot conduct AGM business.  Proxies must be received no later than 5:00 pm Tuesday, 20 June 2017. Each member can only hold 5 proxies, please ensure that the person you nominate is definitely coming to the meeting.

Please do not send back incomplete forms as they are not valid unless fully completed and signed by the member.

The AGM schedule is jam packed, so we need everyone registering at 6:00 pm for a 6:30 pm sharp start.

Venue: State Library Theatre, 25 Francis Street, Northbridge

The agenda will include:

  • Confirmation of the Minutes for the last preceding Annual General Meeting
  • Annual reports: president and treasurer
  • Election of new management committee
  • Appoint a person to audit the accounts of the association
  • Malcolm Matheson’s Presentation
  • Photo competition
  • Discussion on Constitution Reform (see attached draft rules and explanatory note)

The Perth Rock Climbing Guide ($25), Climb Tasmania ($45, limited copies) and CAWA T-shirts ($25) will be available. Please bring exact change.

Please note that the AGM is strictly a member only event.  

Memberships Notice:  Existing members and new members can now obtain memberships for the 2017/2018 year. If you are not a current member you can still obtain a CAWA membership that will include the remainder of the current financial year and the next financial year.

Click here if you want a membership from and including 1 April 2017 to and including 30 June 2018: Online application and credit card payment (Note: This is a secure external link).

Click here if you want a membership from and including 1 July 2017 to and including 30 June 2018: Online application and credit card payment (Note: This is a secure external link).

Look forward to seeing you all there!

 

 

Foundation Day Long Weekend at Kalbarri

Posted on May 10, 2017 by to News | No Comments

Dear members,

The long awaited Kalbarri trip is just around the corner: Friday 2nd to Monday 5th June 2017.

Sebastian Fuller on Keith Goes Blank 15*** at the Tourist Wall, Z Bend.

Sheer sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River provide trad, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing opportunities. Roughly 6.5 hour drive north of Perth, Kalbarri gorge is well worth the trip. Kalbarri National Park provides opportunities for trad leading in the middle and upper grades and sport climbing at a high level. You couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting. If you haven’t been before, Kalbarri gorge is truly spectacular and just a great spot to spend a weekend. Winter is prime climbing time in the gorge with excellent friction, pleasant temperatures and no flies.

Though the areas around the Z Bend tend to attract most climbers, there is some moderate trad climbing out at Hawk’s Head. Four Ways is also another great alternative if you want to avoid the crowd, whilst the remote Wonderwall offers some deep water soloing fun and is a pleasant day hike.

We would love to see you all there. We also need to make sure that everyone is clear about what to expect of the area. Kalbarri is not an ideal venue for beginners, unless they are accompanied by a suitably experienced climber. This is because access to routes will usually require lead climbing and the ability to set up top ropes is very limited. The climbing also tends to be moderate to very hard.

Guides
The main guides to the area are Northern Rock and West Australian Rock. These will give you a good idea of the climbing on offer. More routes have been posted on the forum since the above publications, here are some of them:
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-couple-of-new-kalbarri-routes/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-long-natural-line/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-new-route-in-the-pit/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Access
From Perth, head north to Geraldton, Northampton and Kalbarri. The road out to the Z Bend is now sealed for the first twelve kilometres. The remaining section can be in variable conditions but accessible by 2WD.

Weather
Check the weather forecast to choose your clothing appropriately: if the forecast announces less than 15 degrees and windy, bring that down jacket as it can be very cold in the gorge. Sunscreen can be life saver as well if you’re planning to climb multi-pitches.

Accommodation
We will most likely book unpowered camping sites nearby Kalbarri Township. A deposit is required to secure the camping so please let me know numbers as soon as possible if you plan to attend, thus I can ensure that we have enough space to accommodate everybody.

Registering Your Interest
Please register by completing the online form ASAP. I will then send confirmation with further details.


Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Joining online is easy, through the link on the CAWA home page.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me by email: remiv@climberswa.asn.au.

Remi Vignals

CAWA Committee member


Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

CAWA Bouldering Trip, The Re-Randalling. Sat 20th May. 9:30am – when skin is gone. [cancelled due to heavy rain]

Posted on May 08, 2017 by to News | No Comments

We tried for a day on the Randall blocs last year and got boned by the weather.  Fingers crossed for a different story this year.

Mt Randall is probably Perth’s finest bouldering area and it’s seen a truck-tone of development over the last year with a truck tone more to be done. Check out The Crag for the problems on offer.

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/western-australia/perth/area/963284130

A brief summary of the grades is below this thing that i am writing now.

V0 to V4 – 63 problems

V5 to V10 – 36 problems

Fuck off that’s too hard and/or too high – 55 problems

Access

Mt Randall bouldering is about 45min – 1hrs drive from Perth CBD followed by about a 10 min walk in (map + topo will be provided). Boulder mats, eskies, water and safety equipment will be driven to the boulders using 4WDs but there is very limited parking at the boulders so most climbers will have to do the walk in.

Transport

Climbers are responsible for their own transport on the day.  Having said that, if you have no transport and still want to participate, let me know and I will organise some car pooling for you.

What you will need

Water and food for the day, climbing shoes and chalk. Boulder mats if you got em.

How to register

Please email me (garethw@climberswa.asn.au) to register before mid-day Friday 19/05/17 please. Once registrations are received, we will provide further information.

Other important information

Notice – We want lots of people to come along but due to our insurance cover all participants must be current CAWA members. Non-members that are keen to come along can join CAWA online here or they can just come on down and climb along side us.

Disclaimer – Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips.  All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves.  If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced climbers you know and see if they are planning to attend. Participants under the age of 18 must have a parent, guardian or other responsible person to accompany them.

Also Check out some vids at the link below

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClTv63J4Ct5TVuv3ZoQKxDw

Update from the President

Posted on April 13, 2017 by to News | No Comments

img_6525

Dear CAWA members,

It has been a long while since I last communicated with you. In the past year I was travelling for work more than originally anticipated. Other Committee members were out of town too, which slowed down our activities somewhat late last year.

Now we are all back and active. We had a fun Quarry Crash at Mountain Quarry, a highly successful (and at times scary) film night at Rosie O’Grady’s, and a well-attended trip to Mount Frankland, which was less wet than previous years. Ten of our members enjoyed the free tickets we received to the Telluride Mountainfilm in Fremantle and others claimed reduced entry for CAWA members. We have another Quarry Crash upcoming, as well as the Peak Charles Trip in April and a Clean-Up Day at Copper Rocks in May. And then, there will be the AGM in June – we are currently working on speakers and event details and will let you know as soon as we can when, where, and what.

The Committee also has been climbing, although some of us more than others. The greatest offenders in defaulting on the duty to send at least one climb between committee meetings are, cough, the President and Vice President. I have managed to get outdoors a few times since returning from travels in Europe, and sent enough climbs to be readmitted to the “Subcommittee on Sending”. Purists on the Committee questioned my ethics on the onsight of the controversial “Harry Humpkin and the Exploding Pumpkin (West Cape Howe, 19): I did clip the newly placed bolts in the lower part of the climb. The rest of the Committee have been busy climbing anywhere from Tasmania to Margaret River and the local quarries, doubtlessly ignoring shiny bolts if there was a trad placement nearby.

Speaking of bolting: One of the chief results of the survey we conducted last year was that there is overwhelming support for the establishment of a bolting fund. We have thus resolved to establish such a fund (see separate blog post) to help make our local crags safer.

Another big non-climbing task which has kept us busy is the reform of our Constitution, mandated under the new association law, but also long overdue in order to modernise some of our more archaic rules (the location of the Perth Central Post Office plays an incredibly large role in the current rules governing the way we operate, for example – most of us don’t even know where it is located). It has turned out to be quite a big job to adjust the old rules to the new regulations and to modernise all references to snail mail, the signing of checks, and the like, but we will get it done well ahead of the AGM, where members will be able to vote on the new set of rules.

Speaking of the AGM: one of the changes the new law suggests is to align the membership year with the financial year. Currently, our financial year is from AGM to AGM, while the membership year is the normal financial year. The easiest way to fix this anomaly is to push back the AGM this year from April to June. We are still working on the exact date and venue, but will let you know as soon as we can.

One of the main tasks of the AGM is to elect a new Committee. We have had a fairly stable Committee this past year, with only two resignations for family reasons. We have just recently co-opted a new member, Anthony Brandis, who has been part of a previous CAWA Committee and has come back for more. This means  that we have one vacancy at present. A core group of the current Committee will re-nominate, including key office holders. If elected, these core members of the Committee will ensure continuity of work between the 2016-17 and the 2017-18 Committees.

Regrettably, I will not be among the re-nominees. I have accepted a position in Melbourne, and will move in early July, just after the AGM.

If you have been toying with the idea of coming on board of the Committee, if you would like the Committee to organize things that have not happened this year (such as training courses, which have fallen by the wayside at present, but should be resurrected), or if you have entirely new ideas for what CAWA could and should do – now is a good time to put up your hand to join. If you are thinking about it but need more information, do not hesitate to contact me on marke@climberswa.asn.au or chat to me when you see me at one of the gyms or local crags.

Meanwhile, we hope to see many of you at the upcoming events. Enjoy climbing, stay safe, and check your knot before you leave the ground.

 

Mark Edele

CAWA President

CAWA BOLTING FUND

Posted on April 12, 2017 by to News | No Comments

Dodgy Bolt

Dodgy Bolt

A survey conduced among climbers in 2016 showed that there is widespread support in the WA climbing community for establishing a re-bolting fund. Such a fund can model itself on what exists in other states (Climbing Club of Tasmania and Sydney Rockclimbing Club).

Reacting to the growing groundswell, CAWA has now moved to establish the CAWA Bolting Fund, which provides selected applicants with additional funds to assist with re-bolting projects.

What is re-bolting? Anybody who has climbed  in WA will have noticed that the standard of bolting is varied and that there are number of routes with rusted or otherwise dangerous bolts (see photo). CAWA encourages the replacement of such bolts. The CAWA Bolting Fund provides assistance in this process.

CAWA does not encourage the placing of new bolts on established routes (“retro-bolting”), but only the replacement of already existing bolts. An exception are anchor bolts to decrease erosion.

How does the CAWA Bolting Fund work? The CAWA Committee has allocated  $2,000.00 in 2016 to the Bolting Fund and will review further financial commitments to the Fund in years to follow. The granting of funds is discretionary. The Committee will decide on a case-to-case basis on applications received. Route rebolters must follow CAWA’s Code of Bolting and New Route Development.  Applications may take a number of weeks to be processed.  Not all applications will be successful due to the limited funds available.

Climbers who know of a route that requires re-bolting, or want to apply for a re-bolting project, should complete the Online application form (coming soon) or write to bolting@climberswa.asn.au.

The climbing community is encouraged to make donations to the CAWA Bolting Fund as follows:

Bolting Fund
Bankwest
BSB: 306 188
Account No: 0203707

Members are reminded that CAWA hosts a forum topic called Bolting on the CAWA website.  Members and other climbers are encouraged to report dodgy bolts they encounter on this website.

Disclaimers:

  • Climbing is a dangerous activity.
  • Rebolting does not make climbing a safe activity.
  • CAWA does not engage in rebolting.
  • CAWA does not vouch the safety of any rebolted routes.
  • All climbers should know how to assess the safety of bolts.
  • All climbers climb rebolted routes at their own risk.

 

Contacts:

Online application form (coming soon)