Mount Frankland Trip Report

Posted on March 12, 2017 by to Events, News, Social, Trip Reports | No Comments

Mt Frankland Trip Report

Saturday, 4 March 2017 to Monday, 6 March 2017

Notwithstanding the dire predictions of rain, members who attended the trip were rewarded with three fun days of climbing.

The Monday in particular saw Mt Frankland in prime condition, perhaps a tad on the warm side, but dry as a bone.

Last year saw the trip being cancelled twice due to the poor weather conditions.  So this is the first time CAWA had been down to Mt Frankland as a trip since 2015, which was great as I have been hanging out to head to Mt Frankland to have a crack at Hannibal.

Mt Frankland team members included as follows:

  • Dirk Klicker
  • Lucy Foote
  • Linda Antoncich
  • Neal Antoncich
  • Pip Ravn
  • Lilly Wong
  • Anya Greenfield
  • Maya Mallett
  • Bryant Ware
  • Anna Maddocks

There were a few last-minute cancellations with some questionable excuses.  I have made up only one of the excuses listed below:

  • I’m having problems with my car.
  • There’s an election on next weekend.
  • Something came up at work that I have to resolve.
  • The dog ate my homework.

For the record: There’s usually plenty of people offering a lift on CAWA trips.  There’s an election every year.  There’s plenty of time to do work and redo your homework driving there and back.

The first day, Saturday, saw us climbing in the clouds.  The headwall looked ominous in the mist.  But, the main thing was the rock was dry enough and we were all climbing and having fun.  Hurray!  The rain held out for most of the day before it started to drizzle.  Everyone got some classic Mt Frankland slab climbing under their belts.  Then headed back to camp for dinner, where I was super jealous of Pip’s $13 steaks, whereas I had the standard-last-minute-pack-can of beans.

It didn’t rain all night and the second day looked to be epic.  We got off to a lazy and slow start to give the rock time enough to try from the drizzle the afternoon before.  But, when we got there, to our dismay, it was totally wet.  Completely unclimbable.  Mt Frankland must have been the only place to have been rained on, in the whole of the South West.  So it was off to Plan B, Monkey Rock.  When we got there, Monkey Rock was absolutely baking in the sun and the march flies were running rampant.  The weather contrast between the crags was amazing.  The team pretty much climbed all the new sport routes on offer.  Monkey Rock really does make a fun second option if Mt Frankland is wet.

The weather improved steadily and for the third day, Monday, the weather was perfect, maybe a tad warm.  We got off to an early start and everyone got a bunch of climbing done.  The perfect way to end the trip indeed.

Honourable mentions on the trip included:

  • The wife (Melissa Klicker) for looking after the twins while I was climbing:)
  • All for braving the poor weather predictions.
  • All for braving the march flies.
  • Lucy for helping me read the mini-guides, doing quite a few leads and her first 18.
  • Lilly, Anya and Maya for coming all the way down to climb on Saturday. My hat goes off to you.
  • Linda’s effortless second of Hannibal. It’s all in the foot work.
  • Anna’s huge grin on topping out on Monkey Puzzle, Monkey Rock.
  • Pip’s euphoric cries on finding a certain undercling hold.
  • Anna and Bryant for trying to forge a new path to the back of Monkey Rock.
  • Bryant for preparing for his thesis interview on the drive down and back.

Anyway it was fun trip all round and hope to see you all again on the next trip to Mt Frankland.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Membership Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Mob : +61 (0)400248815

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mt Frankland Trip

Mount Frankland Trip – 4th-6th March

Posted on February 20, 2017 by to Events, Social | 3 Comments

Mount Frankland Trip

Registration is now open!

Saturday, 4th March to Monday, 6th March 2017 (Labour Day Long Weekend)

Please be aware that the weather is the deciding factor on this trip and if it is still raining (down south) shortly before the trip then the rock will be unclimbable and the trip will be cancelled. The final decision will be made on Wednesday, 1st March. Until then think positive and make  your daily sacrifice to the rain gods.

Mt Frankland is located in the Mt Frankland National Park and is about 30km north of Walpole. It’s quite a drive from Perth, probably 5 hours give or take, but in my opinion it’s well worth it.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Your CAWA trip coordinators for this trip is Dirk Klicker.

The climbing is mainly bolted slab, with many routes up to 3 pitches long. So it is good if you are looking to gain some multi-pitch experience. The routes tend to be run-out, so people need to be fairly confident leading at the stated grade. Generally on CAWA trips there will be enough people around to lead the routes so that everyone can have a go. Most of the routes are bolted, but some require a mix of bolted and natural protection. Bolt plates will be required.

There is a variety of grades starting from about 15 and up. So there is something for everyone.

The West Australian Rock or the South Coast Rock Guidebooks are a good reference. There is some information on the CAWA website at the link Mt Frankland New Climbs or at On-line Guides/Mt Frankland.

The camping area is called Fernhook Falls and it is a well set up campground (this means tents) with drop toilets, a nice undercover kitchen area and a lovely river nearby for smelly climbers to brave at the end of the day (there are no shower facilities). It does get cold overnight, so pack warm. On past trips the march flies have been out in force, so some good, strong insect repellent is also recommended in case we are unlucky again this year.

There is no pre-booking, so it’s a first come first served situation. We do not expect it to be full.

If you need directions please send Dirk an e-mail.

You do need to bring your own food and drinking water for this trip but you can leave the shovel behind (there is a tap in the kitchen that feeds from a rainwater tank for cooking/washing dishes). Walpole is not that far away (about 35km) if you do need supplies and there is other more salubrious accommodation around. There are minimal camping fees ($7 per night per person/$5 concession). The rangers come around and check.

Remember to bring your own firewood.

If you interested e-mail Dirk and he will send you a registration form to confirm that you will be attending.

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.

All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, Mt Frankland is a good beginner’s crag. If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information.

Feel free to contact us if you want to register.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Membership Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Mob : +61 (0)400248815

Heaps Cheap ,$8, CAWA Gym Crash at City Summit on Thursday 23/02/17

Posted on February 06, 2017 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Dear CAWA Members,

The next CAWA Gym Crash will be held at City Summit, 2/26 Harris Rd Malaga.

Starts around 6:00pm on Thursday 23/02/17.

Special CAWA member entry cost is $8. Small additional cost for pizza.

The Perth Rock Climbing Guide will be available for purchase ($25). It would be appreciated if you could bring the exact amount.

Looking forward to seeing you all there.

Cheers

Gareth Wood
CAWA committee member

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CAWA Christmas BBQ – Blackwall Reach

Posted on November 30, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | 2 Comments

CAWA would like to invite you to the annual Christmas BBQ! So grab your climbing shoes and enjoy the evening with us at Point Walter.

Date: Sunday 11th December 2016.

Activities: Climbing, eating, meeting with other climbers.

Time: 4.30pm onwards for bouldering at Blackwall Reach. BBQ provided from 6.30pm.

What CAWA will supply: Nibbles, meat, salad, buns, sauce, plates and plastic cutlery.

What to bring: Drinks, anything else you want to eat, chairs, blankets, mozzie repellent, climbing shoes and chalk bag. If you have gear for ball games like cricket, soccer or volleyball please bring it along to provide alternate fun for those not bouldering.

Directions: Come down Honour Rd on the left side of Pt Walter Reserve, going straight through the roundabout at Carroll Drive and continuing on past the tennis courts. On your right you will see a kid’s playground, some parking and BBQ’s that are quite close to the road. We will be in that general area, fairly close to the road. On your left, if you follow the path down to the water, you will find a long expanse of limestone wall conveniently placed for your bouldering pleasure.

Cost: Free for members (please bring your membership card).
$10 non-members (or you can join up on the CAWA website before the day).

RSVP: Please RSVP by the 10th December. All RSVPs to cawa@climberswa.asn.au. Please let us know if you have specific dietary requirements, we will do our best to meet those requirements.

Guide books and CAWA t-shirts will also be available for sale on the day, please bring correct change – $25.00.

We look forward to seeing you all there!

Nathan Cole
CAWA Committee Member

CAWA Albany Trip Monday, 26 December – Sunday, 1 January

Posted on November 16, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

CAWA ALBANY TRIP!!!

The Christmas/New Year trip to Albany is almost here!

The dates this year will be Monday, 26 December 2016 to Sunday, 1 January 2017.

The climbing possibilities are endless: The Stirling Ranges, Porongurups and all of the areas around Albany. Magnificent West Cape Howe is a popular destination, along with Peak Head. There is also no shortage of hiking in the area, including the spectacular (and strenuous) ridge walk between Bluff Knoll and Ellen Peak in The Stirlings.

Accommodation will be booked in a lovely spot just out of Albany, to enable good access to all of the climbing areas.

We usually head into town for a feed on New Year’s Eve and a booking will made at Rustlers Steakhouse again this year, where we have had good food and speedy service the last couple of times.

We are doing our best to create opportunities for beginner climbers where we can. However, this particular trip is not well suited to beginners unless they are accompanied by an appropriately experienced person who assumes total responsibility for looking after them. This is partly due to everyone being spread out over different areas but also the nature of some of the climbing and skills required to access certain areas.

Important accommodation info:

We often have some flexibility with bookings but due to this being peak season, I have to confirm the numbers very soon, to ensure we have enough sites. If members want to be sure of getting a spot, then they need to let me know by Friday 2 December 2016.

Please note that CAWA trips are only open to current members. Not a member but keen to come along? Join online via this link: Become a CAWA member.

To register for the trip, please email me at: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au. Please include: how many in your group and their names, number of tents and roughly what size they are (i.e. 2, 3, 4 person tent). If you want to stay on until 2 January, let me know and I’ll see what I can do. Each person will need to complete a trip registration form but for now I just need numbers.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Memberships Officer

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced members you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Climb in WA. 1st. Brian Tan on Dancing the Deep Blue (26) WCH. ROSS WEITER

CAWA Guidebook Plagiarism Update and Resolution

Posted on November 15, 2016 by to News | 3 Comments

CAWA Guidebook Plagiarism Update and Resolution

CAWA has been seeking to resolve a situation of plagiarism of the CAWA Perth Climbing Guidebook. The current CAWA Committee has inherited this issue and believes that an acceptable resolution has now been reached.

This post is to update and notify you of the outcome.

A brief summary:

In 2013 Shane Richardson published a new guidebook to the Perth region, which reproduced significant sections of the CAWA guidebook. He had been notified in a letter by CAWA prior to the publication of his guide that the CAWA guide is under copyright. Shane had not sought nor obtained permission to reproduce these sections.

The previous CAWA Committee sought legal advice, which confirmed that plagiarism had indeed taken place. In two letters, a lawyer representing CAWA asked Shane to cease promotion and sales of his guide and to confirm in writing that he will not in future use material under CAWA copyright. Shane answered to the first but not the second letter. The guidebook continued to be sold.

It should be noted that significant effort has gone into the creation of the CAWA guidebook and the guidebook was a significant source of revenue for CAWA prior to the publication of Shane’s guide.  CAWA guidebook revenue has halved since the introduction of Shane’s guidebook.

The 2016 CAWA Committee considered the options in regards to this matter. It was decided that – barring litigation, which could be lengthy, divisive for the climbing community, and costly – the legal avenues had now been exhausted.  The key driver was loss of ongoing income to CAWA through reduced sales, and the ongoing benefit Shane has gained through copying CAWA produced information.

The CAWA Committee therefore sought a meeting with Shane to find a way forward.  On 16 August of this year, CAWA Committee member Remi Vignals and CAWA President Mark Edele met with Shane to discuss the situation. At the meeting Shane advised that he had not received the second letter in full. There is no record of any follow up from the previous Committee regarding Shane’s receipt of the letter. Remi and Mark provided Shane a copy of the letter which advised that plagiarism has occurred. Three options were offered to Shane to settle the issue:

  • Admission that he copied sections of the CAWA guidebook. Agreement to financially compensate CAWA for damages by making a donation to the re-bolting fund, and agree to work with CAWA in the future to ensure this does not happen again.
  • No financial contribution but admission that he copied the material from the CAWA guidebook and to work with CAWA in the future to ensure this does not happen again.
  • No agreement that CAWA material was plagiarized. As a gesture of good will, he would make a donation to the CAWA re-bolting fund.

After some follow up by email with Shane a resolution has been reached. The settlement of the conflict between Shane and CAWA regarding plagiarism of the CAWA guidebook is as follows:

Shane admits that he made a mistake in not asking for permission to reprint copyrighted material from the CAWA guide and he will work with CAWA in the future to ensure that this does not occur again. The CAWA Committee, in turn, accepted this admission and will not pursue the issue further. The invitation to make a financial contribution to the re-bolting fund remains. Such a gesture would be welcomed by the Committee, and would be acknowledged as a follow-up to this post.

Any financial contribution would go towards the re-bolting fund CAWA is in the process of establishing. It uses CAWA funds to help increase the safety of routes in the state. By raising revenue for CAWA, buying the CAWA guidebook contributes to this initiative to increase the safety of routes in the state.

I hope that everybody can accept this compromise. It was the Committee’s judgment that it would be in the best interest of everybody involved to move forward rather than to look back.

 

Mark Edele

CAWA President

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CAWA trip to Wilyabrup/ Margaret River Friday 25 – Sunday 27 November

Posted on November 08, 2016 by to News | No Comments

CAWA’s Wilyabrup trip (Margaret River area) is coming up fast! Sorry members have not been emailed yet, we have a problem with the email system :(.

The user-friendly sea cliffs at Wilys have a whole range of grades and are great for both more and less experienced climbers – and arranging top ropes is straightforward. To sign up, please email me Peter Thomas on petert@climberswa.asn.au, and do it asap – very latest is 12 noon Wednesday 23rd Nov.

Please note that CAWA trips have to be for CAWA members only – but you could apply for membership now and be in time (find out how under “About” on CAWA home page). Sorry, no exceptions to this for partners or family members – for insurance reasons, amongst others.

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Hope to see you there!

Peter Thomas, CAWA Committee Member

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Gym Crash @ The Hangout 25/10/16

Posted on October 15, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Hello CAWA Humans 

The next CAWA Gym Crash will be held at The Hangout 12 White St Bayswater WA 6053. 

Starts around 6:00 on 25/10/16.

Special CAWA member entry cost is $7. Small additional cost for pizza. 

The Perth Rock Climbing Guide will be available for purchase ($25). It would be appreciated if you could bring the exact amount. 

Looking forward to seeing you all there. 

Also worth noting is that The Hangout has a training board known as The HIT Systems Board.  So far it is the best training for the steep stuff, outside of moving to Spain, that I have found.

On the night of this Gym Crash, i’ll be arriving about 4pm to have a session on the Systems Board.  If any of you are interested in learning how to use it feel free to come on down early and check it out.

Date: Tue 25/10/16
Time: From 6:00
Location: The Hangout, 12 White St Bayswater WA 6053
BYO: Climbing shoes, chalk, harness and rope if you want to lead climb 

Cheers

Gareth Wood

CAWA Committee Member 

Hangout gym crash

Hangout gym crash

 

News from the CAWA Committee (10 September 2016)

Posted on September 18, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Dear CAWA members and fellow climbers,

It has been a busy couple of months for the committee since my last update. Many of us were travelling for work or climbing (or both), but CAWA business proceeded nevertheless. We had a successful CAWA trip to Eaglestone in July and published a new issue of the Western Climber, now available to the public on our website at http://www.climberswa.asn.au/publications/

Committee Members at Rosie O'Gradys at the CAWA Committee Meeting held on 10 September 2016.

Committee Members at Rosie O’Gradys at the CAWA Committee Meeting held on 10 September 2016.

The Access Subcommittee is continuing conversation with DPAW regarding Kalbarri. As you know, camping at the Promenade is prohibited for the time being, in order to give the Rock Wallabies a break from smelly climbers at night. DPAW has provided a “hikers and climbers only” campground near the Z-Bend carpark. I visited Kalbarri in August and stayed there. It’s a nice spot and the walk into the Gorge is quick and can serve as a warmup. To book, call the Kalbarri National Park Office on 9937-1140.

As I have noted in the Winter issue of the Western Climber, the Committee has decided to take up the widespread wish of our members to help with re-bolting of routes. Remi took the lead in this question and is working out the details at the moment. Thus far we have decided that we would not be involved in “retro-bolting” (that is, adding new bolts to existing routes) but only in “re-bolting”, that is replacing old or dodgy bolts with new ones, or adding anchors where appropriate. We are still in the process of working out the details but have decided to allocate $2000 this year to re-bolting. I will keep you informed about what, when, and how once these details are worked out.

Peter, Dirk and I have also formed a working party to revise our somewhat crusty constitution and to bring it in line with the new legislation on associations. We made some progress on this task in August, but given that Dirk is away climbing Mt. Elbrus and Peter walking the Haute Route, our progress has stalled somewhat since then. However, we will have everything in place for the next AGM.

Finally, we are still digesting the results of the survey of our members. It raised a lot of issues, and we are in the process of deciding what to prioritize over the next half year. We are a small committee of volunteers and we cannot possibly do all we would like to.

As far as the “Subcommittee on Sending” is concerned, everybody but Pete seems to have gotten out there and climbed some routes – or mountains, as in Dirk’s case. Nat, meanwhile, has worked on increasing the CAWA membership – he became a proud father! So the “CAWA parents’ group” is growing…

That’s all for now. Please feel free to contact any of the Committee members or myself, if you have any concerns, questions, or suggestions (http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/committee/ )

Stay safe out there, wear a helmet, and check your knot,

Mark Edele

CAWA President

Mount Frankland Trip – 24th-26th September

Posted on September 18, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Mount Frankland Trip

Registration is now open! – CANCELLED DUE TO POOR WEATHER CONDITIONS

Saturday, 24th September to Monday, 25th September 2016 (Queen’s Birthday Long Weekend)

Please be aware that the weather is the deciding factor on this trip and if it is still raining (down south) shortly before the trip then the rock will be unclimbable and the trip will be cancelled. At this stage the weather is not looking good. However, the final decision will be made on Wednesday, 21st September. Until then think positive and make  your daily sacrifice to the rain gods.

Mt Frankland is located in the Mt Frankland National Park and is about 30km north of Walpole. It’s quite a drive from Perth, probably 5 hours give or take, but in my opinion it’s well worth it.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Your CAWA trip coordinators for this trip is Dirk Klicker.

The climbing is mainly bolted slab, with many routes up to 3 pitches long. So it is good if you are looking to gain some multi-pitch experience. The routes tend to be run-out, so people need to be fairly confident leading at the stated grade. Generally on CAWA trips there will be enough people around to lead the routes so that everyone can have a go. Most of the routes are bolted, but some require a mix of bolted and natural protection. Bolt plates will be required.

There is a variety of grades starting from about 15 and up. So there is something for everyone.

The West Australian Rock or the South Coast Rock Guidebooks are a good reference. There is some information on the CAWA web at the link Mt Frankland New Climbs or at On-line Guides/Mt Frankland.

The camping area is called Fernhook Falls and it is a well set up campground (this means tents) with drop toilets, a nice undercover kitchen area and a lovely river nearby for smelly climbers to brave at the end of the day (there are no shower facilities). It does get cold overnight, so pack warm. On past trips the march flies have been out in force, so some good, strong insect repellent is also recommended in case we are unlucky again this year.

There is no pre-booking, so it’s a first come. We do not expect it to be full.

If you need directions please send Dirk an e-mail.

You do need to bring your own food and drinking water for this trip but you can leave the shovel behind (there is a tap in the kitchen that feeds from a rainwater tank for cooking/washing dishes). Walpole is not that far away (about 35km) if you do need supplies and there is other more salubrious accommodation around. There are minimal camping fees ($7 per night per person/$5 concession). The rangers come around and check.

Remember to bring your own firewood.

If you interested e-mail Dirk and he will send you a registration form to confirm that you will be attending.

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.

All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, Mt Frankland is a good beginner’s crag. If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information.

Feel free to contact us if you want to register.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Membership Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.as.au

Mob : +61 (0)400248815