Renew your CAWA membership for 2015/16

For those CAWA members whose memberships expire on 30 June 2015 (blue cards), it is now possible to renew your membership for 2015/16 by clicking on “Become a CAWA Member Today” on the home page to access the link to the membership application site.  This also means that if you are considering joining CAWA for the first time, you will be able to request a 12 month membership by following the same link on the home page.

It may take a week or so to process your membership and post your card out, so if you need proof that you’ve joined in the meantime, you can show the tax receipt that is emailed to you after you have taken out a membership.

If you have any problems or queries, please don’t hesitate to contact me at kyliew@climberswa.asn.au.

Safe climbing everyone

Kylie

CAWA Memberships

 

Memberships

I’m off on holidays (unfortunately not a climbing holiday) from the 9th to the 19th August, so won’t be able to post you your membership card until I get back.  If you can, print the tax receipt you receive via email when you pay and use this as evidence that you’ve paid up.  I’ll endeavour to get your card in the post asap once I get back.  If you do have any queries, drop me a line at kyliew@climberswa.asn.au as I’ll be checking my emails regularly.  Or you can drop a line to cawa@climberswa.asn.au and one of the other committee members will be able to help.

Thanks for your understanding and patience, I’ll be thinking of you all while I’m sunning myself on the beach at Byron Bay……

Kylie West

CAWA Treasurer/Memberships

2013/14 CAWA Memberships

It is now possible to either renew your existing membership for the next financial year or take out a new membership for the twelve month period of 1 July 2013 to 30 June 2014.  Ok, there are still a few days left of June, but not many and not enough to warrant continuing to ask people to pay a 15 month membership.  The usual online link on the membership page is the best way to renew/join.  If you have any problems or queries, just email me at kyliew@climberswa.asn.au.

2011 Mt Frankland Trip Report

As remembered by Kylie West (accuracy not guaranteed)……

The trip to the beautiful Mt Frankland National Park was held over the usual Queen’s birthday long weekend, although with a slight twist as thanks to CHOGM, the day off was Friday instead of the Monday.

As a virgin trip coordinator, I found it a bit nerve-wracking making sure I got all the right information sent out and that people were suitably encouraged and excited by the thought of coming along.  Unfortunately, a real crisis emerged that took my mind off this – the goddamn weather.

One minute it looked promising, the next it looked truly horrific and there were plenty of in-between forecasts.  I harangued a group of people who I knew would be far more capable of making a rational decision about the weather and the future of the trip than me (I call it delegating) and eventually the final call was made to go ahead with the official CAWA trip.

As it turned out, the weather could not have been more perfect.   Which I, of course, took full responsibility for.

SOME GENERAL STATISTICS

The final participant tally was 20, and of these, 19 remembered to bring their shoes and harnesses.  Of the 20 people there, 19 chose to cook their own dinner on Saturday night, with one person electing to “share”.  Out of 20 climbers, 19 wore sensible, respectable climbing attire.

The usual lovely mix of nationalities was present, with the group comprising of Rugby World Cup Champions (that would be me) and Rugby World Cup losers (that would be everyone else).  It was notable that no French climbers were present……

BACK TO THE CLIMBING

A bunch of people had braved the Thursday afternoon mass exodus from Perth and were rewarded for their effort by a good day on Friday.  By the time the rest of us turned up on Friday afternoon or thereabouts, we’d missed a perfect slab-climbing day.   But no mind, because Saturday and Sunday were also glorious and as far as I could tell, everyone was getting on the rock.

There was the usual line-up at routes like Free Burma (160m, 16***), Dream Weaver (95m, 16***) and Purring Pussies (36m, 15**) to access the ledge to continue on with pitches two and three for many routes.  For some, it was good ground for learning multi-pitch climbing as well as leading on slab.  For poor Deb, it was a steep learning curve in a) using bolt plates for the first time and b) experiencing the awful run-out traverse on Lambs to the Slaughter (50m, 14*).  Handled superbly I should point out, with plenty of encouragement from her belayer Martin, who really didn’t want to second it!  Deb’s cool composure was quite a contrast to watching a former CAWA member a few years ago leading the same route, while screaming at the top of her lungs over and over “WHERE’S THE NEXT F*CKING BOLT??!!!”

At the start of the day, the serious business of identifying routes and potential climbing partners.

 [above photo] Some traffic at the top.  Ross, Dena, Steve, Pauline, Wally and Brian (ahem, may I point out the clear blue sky)
 
Brian “Seagull” Tan, aka Rock Climbing God, had a nice outing on Free Burma with Steve and Pauline, with this being Steve’s first multi-pitch climb.
Brian, Pauline and Steve at the top of Free Burma (Steve, about to learn the hard way it's best to leave your helmet on for the summit shot)

Richard and I attempted Stoned Alone (80m, 18**).  We got the first pitch no problem (a stiff 14) but then found ourselves sitting in a puddle with the rest of the route above us dripping wet.  So, after a weird traverse we continued up the rest of Dream Weaver in front of Kelly and Gesa.  Kelly had a lovely time leading the first pitch of Dream Weaver, she was really pleased to be offered the lead and jumped at the chance, didn’t you Kel?

Kelly enthusiastically steaming up the first pitch of Dream Weaver

Dena and Ross went for gold and got many ticks over the weekend, including Hannibal (20), Burmese Tiger (38m, 17*) and Three Sheep Twice a Day (95m, 18**) amongst others.   Eric and Craig had a fine outing on Where Eagles Dare (85m, 18*), although Eric’s attempt to avoid getting mud on his shoes evenutally ended in tears.

Ross on belay and Dena seconding

Francis had fallen in love with slab climbing and continued let everyone know how much he was enjoying it, particularly when he and Mario were on Purveyors of Matters Large and Small for the Masses (77m, 18*).  Discovering that he had to belay off a single bolt at 45m due to an omission in the route description (just some minor detail of needing two small cams to set up belay at 47m), Mario heard Francis shout from the ground “sorry mate, I’ve lost interest”.   Being the self-described sociable and easy-going fellow that he is, Mario took this news quite well.

One of the quotes of the weekend was from Richard, having just sweat bullets on the first pitch of Saracen – “I haven’t had that much fun since I drove my car into the back of a truck”.

Richard, having not quite as much fun as when he crashed his car

Other notable accents were Brian and Gesa doing Butter Fingers (35m, 20***) from the terrace and Steve, Wally and Jo doing Sheep Two (30m, 15).  Hamish was spotted cruising up Granitarium (85m, 17*) with Lloyd and I had a great time with Mario and Francis (although I felt a bit like the third wheel haha) on Where Eagles Dare.

Mario and Francis abseiling off Where Eagles Dare.

I also climbed with Gesa, who led Purring Pussies and then we finished the top two pitches of Free Burma.  I somehow managed to ram four pieces of gear between the first and second bolts on the second pitch.  I felt rather clever and informed Brian that yes, they were all bomber.  He asked “how do you know?  Did you fall on any of them?”  Smart arse.

Kylie leading second pitch of Free Burma (16). You can see from here how bomber my gear placements are.....

The evenings were cold but clear and luckily both mossies and march flies were tolerable.  The same could not be said for the bull-ants (or whatever those nasty big red ones are called), with Martin and Richard becoming victims of an attack.  Martin looked like he was Morris dancing and Richard just opted to tear his trousers off.  Different solutions to a painful problem, but equally disturbing!

Kelly, about to tuck into a typical Canadian breakfast....

Considering my initial angst, the weather came up trumps and it was a perfect weekend.  The Sunday afternoon saw the gang sprawled out on the gravel of the car park enjoying a picnic, the bums.  What would the tourists think?!

The gang enjoying a picnic in the (car) park Sunday afternoon

Good food (scabbed or otherwise), good company and good climbing.  What more can you ask for?

A final quote from the irrepressible Richard on the Sunday – “How much would one need to pay for such a perfect day?”  The answer is $107.10, which includes camp fees and vehicle depreciation.

People laughed, but check out the hot chicks Wally pulled in these pants (note that Jo is nowhere to be seen!)


CAWA Trip – Mt Frankland

The next climbing trip is to beautiful Mt Frankland and will be held over the Queen’s birthday long weekend, which this year is now Friday 28th October to Sunday 30th October (we can blame/thank CHOGM for this).

Mt Frankland is located in the Mt Frankland National Park and is about 30km north ofWalpole. It’s quite a drive fromPerth, probably 4.5 hours give or take, but in my opinion it’s well worth it.

The climbing is mainly bolted slab, with many routes up to 3 pitches long, so is good if you’re looking to gain some multi-pitch experience. The routes do tend to be run-out, so people need to be fairly confident leading at the stated grade. It’s a good place for beginners and generally on CAWA trips there will be enough people around to lead the routes.

Most of the routes are bolted, but some require a mix of bolted and natural protection.  Bolt plates will be required.

There’s a variety of grades starting from about 16 and up, so there’s literally something for everyone. Slab climbing requires a certain technique (and lots of faith in your shoes) so will be quite an experience if you haven’t done much before. It’s a beautiful bush setting and there are a couple of other spots you can get to after some bushwalking. Or so I’m told, I’ve always been too lazy to investigate…..

Check out the West Australian Rock guidebook if you’d like to suss things out a bit more or there’s some information at Mt Frankland New Climbs or at On-line Guides/Mt Frankland.  The camping area we will be using is called Fernhook Falls and it’s a really well set up campground with drop toilets, an undercover kitchen area and a lovely river nearby for smelly climbers to brave at the end of the day (there are no shower facilities). 

It does get cold overnight, so pack warm stuff.

To get there from Perth, drive south from Manjimup along South West Highway and then turn left onto Beardmore Road (a gravel road). Fernhook Falls  campsite is about 6km in and is sign-posted on your right.

You do need to bring your own food and water but can leave the shovel behind. Having said that, Walpole isn’t that far away (about 35km) if you do need supplies. There are minimal camping fees ($7 per night per person/$5 concession) that can be paid on an honour system and then you attach a tag to your tent to indicate you’ve paid.  The rangers come around and check.  Keen? Then please email me (kyliew@climberswa.asn.au) the following questionnaire so we can collate numbers and details re car pooling with others who are coming :
· How many in your party intend to come along to the Mt Frankland trip : #

· I have my own vehicle and have seats available for others who do not have transport : Y/N – How many spare seats ?

· These are the names and contact details of my group :

o Name :

oMobileNo :

o Email address :

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.

All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, as already mentioned, Mt Frankland is a good beginner’s crag as there will be plenty of people to give you a go. And unsolicited advice, of course!  If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions: kyliew@climberswa.asn.au

Have a good one!
Kylie
CAWA Treasurer/Memberships

WARNING: Car park break-ins

The CAWA committee has just received an email from some unfortunate climbers who experienced the joy of returning from a day of climbing to find all their cars had been broken into.  This happened Sunday just gone at Churchman’s Brook. 

It’s one of those things where it’s hard to suggest how to avoid this when you have to park in secluded areas to get to the climbing.  An obvious suggestion is to not leave anything of value in your car and to leave the glove box/centre console etc open so it can be seen that there is nothing worth stealing.  This, of course, does not mean your window won’t be broken just for the hell of it.

(I myself experienced my car being broken into when I had my entire tape collection in the car – yes, tapes, pre the invention of CD’s – and NOT ONE TAPE was taken!  I was most offended.  What is wrong with Cat Stevens?  They took my ashtray in spite).

More recently, I had my car broken into when I parked at the top of Statham’s Quarry as I had not got the gate code that weekend.  I doubt anyone else would be this silly, but just in case, it is worth calling DEC on 9295 2244 to get the gate codes for places like Mountain Quarry and Stathams to avoid this happening to you. 

To the victims, thanks for letting us know and we’re sorry you had to go through this. 

Kylie
CAWA Treasurer/Memberships

CHANGE OF DATE: Queen’s birthday long weekend trip to Mt Frankland

The poor Queen is going to have to wait a further three weeks to celebrate her birthday this year in Western Australia.  Thanks to CHOGM, the public holiday for HRH’s birthday is now Friday 28th October.  As Mt Frankland is a bit of a hike, we’re changing the dates so that the full three days is available for this trip rather than trying to squeeze it into a normal weekend.  So, please note that the Mt Frankland climbing trip will now run from Friday 28th – Sunday 30th October 2011.  I myself am rather pleased it won’t clash with the AFL grandfinal like it usually does!

Kylie
CAWA Treasurer/Memberships
kyliew@climberswa.asn.au

 

CAWA Social Event with NEWSFLASH! – Wednesday 10 August 2011, 7:30pm at Rosie O’Grady’s (upstairs room), Northbridge.

On Wednesday 10th August CAWA is holding its first social evening for the year.  The venue will be Rosie O’Grady’s (upstairs room) in Northbridge and will start at 7:30pm.  This is an open invitation to all and sundry and you’re welcome to renew your membership or join on the night (just ask for Kylie and someone will fetch her from the bar).  There is a small cover charge of $5 for non-members.  It’s going to be an interesting and informative evening so it would be great if you can make it.  The Agenda is as follows:

1.      Welcome and introduction by CAWA President – Tony Brebner (5mins)

2.      Introduction to the Committee, our goals/aspirations and the events planned for this year (5mins)

3.      NEWSFLASH!! Presentation by the owners of a brand new indoor rock climbing centre due to open later this year (15mins)

4.      Talks by local climbers,  some of whom are traveling overseas later this year to climb in the Verdon Gorge, France and also meet the Yosemite Assault Team 2011, who are attempting (with grit, determination, wit and sheer balls) the classic “The Nose” on El Capitan. (20mins)

5.      Open discussion from the floor/socialising

Snacks and nibbles will be provided, with more substantial meals and drinks  available for purchase downstairs.

I look forward to seeing you there and if not, I hope you’re still getting some time on the rock in-between these showers!

Tony Brebner
CAWA President
tonyb@climberswa.asn.au

 

PETZL GRIGRI 2: RETURN for REPLACEMENT

Petzl have announced the following recall:

Concerns all GRIGRI 2’s with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136.

Petzl has discovered that exerting excessive force on the fully extended handle of the GRIGRI 2 can cause internal damage, such that the GRIGRI 2 handle may become stuck in the open position.

When the handle is stuck in this position the assisted braking function is disabled. A damaged GRIGRI 2 with the handle stuck in this configuration will function similarly to a manual belay device.

When using a damaged GRIGRI 2 with the handle stuck, failure to control the braking side of the rope will increase the risk of an uncontrolled descent.  A GRIGRI 2 with a damaged handle must be immediately removed from service.

It is important to note that failure to control the braking side of the rope is a misuse of the GRIGRI 2 under any circumstance (see GRIGRI 2 Technical Notice).

As of today, seven damaged products have been returned to Petzl through the worldwide distribution network. Petzl has no knowledge of any accidents resulting from a damaged GRIGRI 2 handle.

Because the safety of users is Petzl’s primary concern, as a measure of precaution Petzl has decided to take the following actions:

– increase the mechanical strength of the handle of all GRIGRI 2’s since serial number 11137.

– recall all GRIGRI 2’s with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136, and replace with a new revised GRIGRI 2.

 

Everyone at Petzl and Spelean is committed to resolving this issue as quickly and efficiently as possible.

The previous generation GRIGRI is not concerned by this.
If you possess a GRIGRI 2 (D14 2O, D14 2G, D14 2B) with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136 please initiate an exchange by mailing it with your contact details to:

GRIGRI 2 Returns
REPLY PAID 645
ARTARMON NSW 1570

Petzl will pay for all shipping costs to complete this replacement.

Adventure Out climbing gym to close 30th June 2011

Hi everyone,

Sadly, the lease for the building where Adventure Out operates its climbing gym is not being renewed and therefore the gym will be closing on the 30th June 2011.

Adventure Out will continue with its usual programs including rock climbing and abseiling courses.

Due to this closure, the schedule of gym crashes has been amended and they will now alternate between Rockface and The Hangout.  Please see Events for the upcoming dates and venues.

Kylie
CAWA Treasurer
kyliew@climberswa.asn.au