CAWA Christmas BBQ – Blackwall Reach

Posted on November 30, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | 2 Comments

CAWA would like to invite you to the annual Christmas BBQ! So grab your climbing shoes and enjoy the evening with us at Point Walter.

Date: Sunday 11th December 2016.

Activities: Climbing, eating, meeting with other climbers.

Time: 4.30pm onwards for bouldering at Blackwall Reach. BBQ provided from 6.30pm.

What CAWA will supply: Nibbles, meat, salad, buns, sauce, plates and plastic cutlery.

What to bring: Drinks, anything else you want to eat, chairs, blankets, mozzie repellent, climbing shoes and chalk bag. If you have gear for ball games like cricket, soccer or volleyball please bring it along to provide alternate fun for those not bouldering.

Directions: Come down Honour Rd on the left side of Pt Walter Reserve, going straight through the roundabout at Carroll Drive and continuing on past the tennis courts. On your right you will see a kid’s playground, some parking and BBQ’s that are quite close to the road. We will be in that general area, fairly close to the road. On your left, if you follow the path down to the water, you will find a long expanse of limestone wall conveniently placed for your bouldering pleasure.

Cost: Free for members (please bring your membership card).
$10 non-members (or you can join up on the CAWA website before the day).

RSVP: Please RSVP by the 10th December. All RSVPs to cawa@climberswa.asn.au. Please let us know if you have specific dietary requirements, we will do our best to meet those requirements.

Guide books and CAWA t-shirts will also be available for sale on the day, please bring correct change – $25.00.

We look forward to seeing you all there!

Nathan Cole
CAWA Committee Member

CAWA Albany Trip Monday, 26 December – Sunday, 1 January

Posted on November 16, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

CAWA ALBANY TRIP!!!

The Christmas/New Year trip to Albany is almost here!

The dates this year will be Monday, 26 December 2016 to Sunday, 1 January 2017.

The climbing possibilities are endless: The Stirling Ranges, Porongurups and all of the areas around Albany. Magnificent West Cape Howe is a popular destination, along with Peak Head. There is also no shortage of hiking in the area, including the spectacular (and strenuous) ridge walk between Bluff Knoll and Ellen Peak in The Stirlings.

Accommodation will be booked in a lovely spot just out of Albany, to enable good access to all of the climbing areas.

We usually head into town for a feed on New Year’s Eve and a booking will made at Rustlers Steakhouse again this year, where we have had good food and speedy service the last couple of times.

We are doing our best to create opportunities for beginner climbers where we can. However, this particular trip is not well suited to beginners unless they are accompanied by an appropriately experienced person who assumes total responsibility for looking after them. This is partly due to everyone being spread out over different areas but also the nature of some of the climbing and skills required to access certain areas.

Important accommodation info:

We often have some flexibility with bookings but due to this being peak season, I have to confirm the numbers very soon, to ensure we have enough sites. If members want to be sure of getting a spot, then they need to let me know by Friday 2 December 2016.

Please note that CAWA trips are only open to current members. Not a member but keen to come along? Join online via this link: Become a CAWA member.

To register for the trip, please email me at: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au. Please include: how many in your group and their names, number of tents and roughly what size they are (i.e. 2, 3, 4 person tent). If you want to stay on until 2 January, let me know and I’ll see what I can do. Each person will need to complete a trip registration form but for now I just need numbers.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Memberships Officer

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced members you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Climb in WA. 1st. Brian Tan on Dancing the Deep Blue (26) WCH. ROSS WEITER

CAWA Guidebook Plagiarism Update and Resolution

Posted on November 15, 2016 by to News | 3 Comments

CAWA Guidebook Plagiarism Update and Resolution

CAWA has been seeking to resolve a situation of plagiarism of the CAWA Perth Climbing Guidebook. The current CAWA Committee has inherited this issue and believes that an acceptable resolution has now been reached.

This post is to update and notify you of the outcome.

A brief summary:

In 2013 Shane Richardson published a new guidebook to the Perth region, which reproduced significant sections of the CAWA guidebook. He had been notified in a letter by CAWA prior to the publication of his guide that the CAWA guide is under copyright. Shane had not sought nor obtained permission to reproduce these sections.

The previous CAWA Committee sought legal advice, which confirmed that plagiarism had indeed taken place. In two letters, a lawyer representing CAWA asked Shane to cease promotion and sales of his guide and to confirm in writing that he will not in future use material under CAWA copyright. Shane answered to the first but not the second letter. The guidebook continued to be sold.

It should be noted that significant effort has gone into the creation of the CAWA guidebook and the guidebook was a significant source of revenue for CAWA prior to the publication of Shane’s guide.  CAWA guidebook revenue has halved since the introduction of Shane’s guidebook.

The 2016 CAWA Committee considered the options in regards to this matter. It was decided that – barring litigation, which could be lengthy, divisive for the climbing community, and costly – the legal avenues had now been exhausted.  The key driver was loss of ongoing income to CAWA through reduced sales, and the ongoing benefit Shane has gained through copying CAWA produced information.

The CAWA Committee therefore sought a meeting with Shane to find a way forward.  On 16 August of this year, CAWA Committee member Remi Vignals and CAWA President Mark Edele met with Shane to discuss the situation. At the meeting Shane advised that he had not received the second letter in full. There is no record of any follow up from the previous Committee regarding Shane’s receipt of the letter. Remi and Mark provided Shane a copy of the letter which advised that plagiarism has occurred. Three options were offered to Shane to settle the issue:

  • Admission that he copied sections of the CAWA guidebook. Agreement to financially compensate CAWA for damages by making a donation to the re-bolting fund, and agree to work with CAWA in the future to ensure this does not happen again.
  • No financial contribution but admission that he copied the material from the CAWA guidebook and to work with CAWA in the future to ensure this does not happen again.
  • No agreement that CAWA material was plagiarized. As a gesture of good will, he would make a donation to the CAWA re-bolting fund.

After some follow up by email with Shane a resolution has been reached. The settlement of the conflict between Shane and CAWA regarding plagiarism of the CAWA guidebook is as follows:

Shane admits that he made a mistake in not asking for permission to reprint copyrighted material from the CAWA guide and he will work with CAWA in the future to ensure that this does not occur again. The CAWA Committee, in turn, accepted this admission and will not pursue the issue further. The invitation to make a financial contribution to the re-bolting fund remains. Such a gesture would be welcomed by the Committee, and would be acknowledged as a follow-up to this post.

Any financial contribution would go towards the re-bolting fund CAWA is in the process of establishing. It uses CAWA funds to help increase the safety of routes in the state. By raising revenue for CAWA, buying the CAWA guidebook contributes to this initiative to increase the safety of routes in the state.

I hope that everybody can accept this compromise. It was the Committee’s judgment that it would be in the best interest of everybody involved to move forward rather than to look back.

 

Mark Edele

CAWA President

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CAWA trip to Wilyabrup/ Margaret River Friday 25 – Sunday 27 November

Posted on November 08, 2016 by to News | No Comments

CAWA’s Wilyabrup trip (Margaret River area) is coming up fast! Sorry members have not been emailed yet, we have a problem with the email system :(.

The user-friendly sea cliffs at Wilys have a whole range of grades and are great for both more and less experienced climbers – and arranging top ropes is straightforward. To sign up, please email me Peter Thomas on petert@climberswa.asn.au, and do it asap – very latest is 12 noon Wednesday 23rd Nov.

Please note that CAWA trips have to be for CAWA members only – but you could apply for membership now and be in time (find out how under “About” on CAWA home page). Sorry, no exceptions to this for partners or family members – for insurance reasons, amongst others.

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Hope to see you there!

Peter Thomas, CAWA Committee Member

Hope_Wilys_Dec12

Gym Crash @ The Hangout 25/10/16

Posted on October 15, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Hello CAWA Humans 

The next CAWA Gym Crash will be held at The Hangout 12 White St Bayswater WA 6053. 

Starts around 6:00 on 25/10/16.

Special CAWA member entry cost is $7. Small additional cost for pizza. 

The Perth Rock Climbing Guide will be available for purchase ($25). It would be appreciated if you could bring the exact amount. 

Looking forward to seeing you all there. 

Also worth noting is that The Hangout has a training board known as The HIT Systems Board.  So far it is the best training for the steep stuff, outside of moving to Spain, that I have found.

On the night of this Gym Crash, i’ll be arriving about 4pm to have a session on the Systems Board.  If any of you are interested in learning how to use it feel free to come on down early and check it out.

Date: Tue 25/10/16
Time: From 6:00
Location: The Hangout, 12 White St Bayswater WA 6053
BYO: Climbing shoes, chalk, harness and rope if you want to lead climb 

Cheers

Gareth Wood

CAWA Committee Member 

Hangout gym crash

Hangout gym crash

 

News from the CAWA Committee (10 September 2016)

Posted on September 18, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Dear CAWA members and fellow climbers,

It has been a busy couple of months for the committee since my last update. Many of us were travelling for work or climbing (or both), but CAWA business proceeded nevertheless. We had a successful CAWA trip to Eaglestone in July and published a new issue of the Western Climber, now available to the public on our website at http://www.climberswa.asn.au/publications/

Committee Members at Rosie O'Gradys at the CAWA Committee Meeting held on 10 September 2016.

Committee Members at Rosie O’Gradys at the CAWA Committee Meeting held on 10 September 2016.

The Access Subcommittee is continuing conversation with DPAW regarding Kalbarri. As you know, camping at the Promenade is prohibited for the time being, in order to give the Rock Wallabies a break from smelly climbers at night. DPAW has provided a “hikers and climbers only” campground near the Z-Bend carpark. I visited Kalbarri in August and stayed there. It’s a nice spot and the walk into the Gorge is quick and can serve as a warmup. To book, call the Kalbarri National Park Office on 9937-1140.

As I have noted in the Winter issue of the Western Climber, the Committee has decided to take up the widespread wish of our members to help with re-bolting of routes. Remi took the lead in this question and is working out the details at the moment. Thus far we have decided that we would not be involved in “retro-bolting” (that is, adding new bolts to existing routes) but only in “re-bolting”, that is replacing old or dodgy bolts with new ones, or adding anchors where appropriate. We are still in the process of working out the details but have decided to allocate $2000 this year to re-bolting. I will keep you informed about what, when, and how once these details are worked out.

Peter, Dirk and I have also formed a working party to revise our somewhat crusty constitution and to bring it in line with the new legislation on associations. We made some progress on this task in August, but given that Dirk is away climbing Mt. Elbrus and Peter walking the Haute Route, our progress has stalled somewhat since then. However, we will have everything in place for the next AGM.

Finally, we are still digesting the results of the survey of our members. It raised a lot of issues, and we are in the process of deciding what to prioritize over the next half year. We are a small committee of volunteers and we cannot possibly do all we would like to.

As far as the “Subcommittee on Sending” is concerned, everybody but Pete seems to have gotten out there and climbed some routes – or mountains, as in Dirk’s case. Nat, meanwhile, has worked on increasing the CAWA membership – he became a proud father! So the “CAWA parents’ group” is growing…

That’s all for now. Please feel free to contact any of the Committee members or myself, if you have any concerns, questions, or suggestions (http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/committee/ )

Stay safe out there, wear a helmet, and check your knot,

Mark Edele

CAWA President

Mount Frankland Trip – 24th-26th September

Posted on September 18, 2016 by to Events, News, Social | No Comments

Mount Frankland Trip

Registration is now open! – CANCELLED DUE TO POOR WEATHER CONDITIONS

Saturday, 24th September to Monday, 25th September 2016 (Queen’s Birthday Long Weekend)

Please be aware that the weather is the deciding factor on this trip and if it is still raining (down south) shortly before the trip then the rock will be unclimbable and the trip will be cancelled. At this stage the weather is not looking good. However, the final decision will be made on Wednesday, 21st September. Until then think positive and make  your daily sacrifice to the rain gods.

Mt Frankland is located in the Mt Frankland National Park and is about 30km north of Walpole. It’s quite a drive from Perth, probably 5 hours give or take, but in my opinion it’s well worth it.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Your CAWA trip coordinators for this trip is Dirk Klicker.

The climbing is mainly bolted slab, with many routes up to 3 pitches long. So it is good if you are looking to gain some multi-pitch experience. The routes tend to be run-out, so people need to be fairly confident leading at the stated grade. Generally on CAWA trips there will be enough people around to lead the routes so that everyone can have a go. Most of the routes are bolted, but some require a mix of bolted and natural protection. Bolt plates will be required.

There is a variety of grades starting from about 15 and up. So there is something for everyone.

The West Australian Rock or the South Coast Rock Guidebooks are a good reference. There is some information on the CAWA web at the link Mt Frankland New Climbs or at On-line Guides/Mt Frankland.

The camping area is called Fernhook Falls and it is a well set up campground (this means tents) with drop toilets, a nice undercover kitchen area and a lovely river nearby for smelly climbers to brave at the end of the day (there are no shower facilities). It does get cold overnight, so pack warm. On past trips the march flies have been out in force, so some good, strong insect repellent is also recommended in case we are unlucky again this year.

There is no pre-booking, so it’s a first come. We do not expect it to be full.

If you need directions please send Dirk an e-mail.

You do need to bring your own food and drinking water for this trip but you can leave the shovel behind (there is a tap in the kitchen that feeds from a rainwater tank for cooking/washing dishes). Walpole is not that far away (about 35km) if you do need supplies and there is other more salubrious accommodation around. There are minimal camping fees ($7 per night per person/$5 concession). The rangers come around and check.

Remember to bring your own firewood.

If you interested e-mail Dirk and he will send you a registration form to confirm that you will be attending.

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.

All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, Mt Frankland is a good beginner’s crag. If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information.

Feel free to contact us if you want to register.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Membership Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.as.au

Mob : +61 (0)400248815

Local Climbing News – Lead and Top Rope Competition at Rockface

Posted on August 11, 2016 by to Competitions, Events, News, Social | No Comments

In local climbing news:-

Rockface Climbing Centre is running Commitment 2016 – a lead and top rope competition that opens on 24th August, the qualifier format runs over multiple weeks with finals over the weekend of 16th – 18th September. Competitors will be in the running to win a range of quality prizes from sponsors like Scarpa, Black Diamond, Climbing Anchors, So iLL, Mad Rock, Clif Bar and more.

Check out the Commitment 2016 event page for more details.

Register in person at Rockface Climbing Centre, 63b John St, Northbridge.

RockfaceClimbingCommitment2016

 

 

 

 

 


You can notify CAWA of your local climbing news or event by e-mailing CAWA directly at the following e-mail address (cawa@climberswa.asn.au).

Joining CAWA online is easy, through the link on the CAWA home page.


Gym Crash at The Boulder Hub – 11/08/2016 @ 6.30pm

Posted on July 31, 2016 by to News | No Comments

 

Dear CAWA Members,

The next CAWA Gym Crash will be held at the Boulder Hub in Wangara on Thursday the 11th of August from 6:30pm. Bouldering of all styles and levels are offered.

Bouldering doesn’t require a rope, a harness and not even a climbing buddy, having said that I would love to see more women attend. Sadly women were significantly outnumbered by men at the last gym crash. So if you have never bouldered, this is the perfect opportunity to give it a try and meet some new faces.

CAWA will also be offering a tasty Nandos dinner for the discounted price of $7. I will be taking orders at 7pm on the night, so please come see me before then if you would like to be included.

I look forward to seeing you all there. For those that don’t know me, ask one of the gym staff, they will point me out. My bio and pic are also on the CAWA website.

Date: Thursday 11th August 2016
Time: From 6.30pm
Location: The Boulder Hub, 2/1 Venture Loop, Wangara, WA
BYO: Climbing shoes and chalk bag

Kate Bailue
CAWA Treasurer

Comments submitted to The Albany Coast Draft Management Plan 2016

Posted on July 12, 2016 by to News | No Comments

Ryan belayed by Inalee on the classic Take The Plunge 19** - West Cape Howe

Ryan on the classic route called Take The Plunge (grade 19***) at West Cape Howe

 

Dear climbers,

The Albany Coast Draft Management Plan 2016 was released by DPaW for public comments on 9th May 2016. Thanks to several CAWA committee members who scrutinized the plan, CAWA submitted comments on 6th July 2016.

 

BACKGROUND INFORMATION:

The Draft Albany Management Plan covers 56 existing terrestrial parks and reserves totalling 32,457ha (Map 1, Appendix 1 of the plan). The lands are mainly located in the City of Albany, as well as southern parts of the shires of Plantagenet and Jerramungup. Climbing areas covered by the plan include the Gap, Natural Bridge, and Peak Head in the Torndirrup National Park, West Cape Howe in the West Cape Howe National Park and Waychinicup in the Waychinicup National Park.  As it covers such a large area and variety of parks, it is written more strategically than other management plans.

This management plan, once gazetted, will replace all of the below listed plans as the statutory management plan for the parks and reserves within the planning area (including any proposed reserves that become vested with the Conservation Commission):

  • South Coast Regional Management Plan 1992–2002 (CALM 1992a)
  • Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve Management Plan 1995–2005 (CALM 1995a)
  • West Cape Howe National Park Management Plan 1995–2005 (CALM 1995b)
  • Interim management guidelines for Torndirrup, Gull Rock and Waychinicup national parks, as well as Mount Manypeaks and Arpenteur nature reserves
  • A non-statutory management plan also exists for Cheyne Bay: Cape Riche to Pallinup River (reserves 14986, 14987 and 31240)

Note that the Stirling Range and Porongorups are covered in the Stirling Range and Prongorups Management Plan, and Peak Charles is covered in the Esperance and Recherche Archipelago Management Plan that came into effect last year.  (These were previously covered by the South Coast Regional Management Plan).

The strategic objectives of the Draft Albany Management Plan, which are derived from corporate DPaW objectives and provide overall guidance for the planning area, are:

  • to conserve and protect biodiversity and ecological integrity;
  • to conserve and protect the value of the land to the culture and heritage of Noongar people, and conserve and protect other cultural heritage;
  • to provide for recreation, tourism and community use for the appreciation of the area’s landscape, natural and cultural heritage values; and
  • to provide for sustainable resource use.

For context, the parks and reserves covered by the Management Plan have immense importance for biodiversity, Noongar and other cultural heritage, as well as have spectacular coastal landforms and scenery that attract many visitors, and are an integral part of the greater Albany community.  It will always be a balancing act to maintain the above listed objectives.

As a background, the parks are located within the global biodiversity hot-spot of the South West Botanical Province. The Albany coast area has high conservation value based on the presence of several large and intact protected areas such as the Gull Rock, Torndirrup, Waychinicup and West Cape Howe National Parks and Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve; areas of high plant species diversity and endemism; and important refuges for threatened fauna (including the critically endangered Gilbert’s potoroo or ngilgyte (Potorous gilbertii) and several endangered ground-dwelling birds, flora and ecological communities.

The plan recognises that recreation (in all its forms) within the planning area mainly occurs along the coastal strip, and the major focus for visitor use is at Torndirrup, West Cape Howe, Gull Rock and Waychinicup national parks and Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve. While the majority of recreation sites within the planning area are associated with the provision of access to beaches and coastal inlets, and much of the activity at these sites is water based, these coastal parks and reserves also provide:

  • spectacular scenic destinations
  • a rustic, remote and wild sense of place
  • unique and varied landscapes
  • opportunities for numerous nature-based recreation activities and multi-user groups
  • unique natural experiences.

Consequently, the number of visitors to these popular coastal parks and reserves are high. In 2013–14, Torndirrup National Park was the sixth highest visited park/reserve in the State with about 431,528 visits (70% of the combined parks visits), and the most visited reserve in the planning area. ‘The Gap’ and ‘Natural Bridge’ sites within this park attracted about 209,587 visits alone (half of the visits were to the park). In comparison, Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve received about 107,000 visits, Waychinicup National Park received about 14,500 visits and West Cape Howe National Park received about 49,134 visits.

CAWA recognises that climbing is only one activity of many that occur within the numerous parks covered with the planning area of the Draft Albany Management Plan, but the plan contains several key and very important climbing areas.  This and the consideration of the above mentioned considerations are reflected in CAWA’s submission to DPaW submitted on 6 July 2016.

Download CAWA’s response to the Albany Coast Draft Management Plan – July 2016 (PDF)

Any questions or burning desire to help out with access issues in the future, contact us on access@climberswa.asn.au.

Thanks,
CAWA Access sub-committee