The next CAWA Gym Crash will be held at The Hangout 12 White St Bayswater WA 6053.
Starts around 6:00 on 25/10/16.
Special CAWA member entry cost is $7. Small additional cost for pizza.
The Perth Rock Climbing Guide will be available for purchase ($25). It would be appreciated if you could bring the exact amount.
Looking forward to seeing you all there.
Also worth noting is that The Hangout has a training board known as The HIT Systems Board. So far it is the best training for the steep stuff, outside of moving to Spain, that I have found.
On the night of this Gym Crash, i’ll be arriving about 4pm to have a session on the Systems Board. If any of you are interested in learning how to use it feel free to come on down early and check it out.
Date: Tue 25/10/16 Time: From 6:00 Location: The Hangout, 12 White St Bayswater WA 6053 BYO: Climbing shoes, chalk, harness and rope if you want to lead climb
It has been a busy couple of months for the committee since my last update. Many of us were travelling for work or climbing (or both), but CAWA business proceeded nevertheless. We had a successful CAWA trip to Eaglestone in July and published a new issue of the Western Climber, now available to the public on our website at http://www.climberswa.asn.au/publications/
The Access Subcommittee is continuing conversation with DPAW regarding Kalbarri. As you know, camping at the Promenade is prohibited for the time being, in order to give the Rock Wallabies a break from smelly climbers at night. DPAW has provided a “hikers and climbers only” campground near the Z-Bend carpark. I visited Kalbarri in August and stayed there. It’s a nice spot and the walk into the Gorge is quick and can serve as a warmup. To book, call the Kalbarri National Park Office on 9937-1140.
As I have noted in the Winter issue of the Western Climber, the Committee has decided to take up the widespread wish of our members to help with re-bolting of routes. Remi took the lead in this question and is working out the details at the moment. Thus far we have decided that we would not be involved in “retro-bolting” (that is, adding new bolts to existing routes) but only in “re-bolting”, that is replacing old or dodgy bolts with new ones, or adding anchors where appropriate. We are still in the process of working out the details but have decided to allocate $2000 this year to re-bolting. I will keep you informed about what, when, and how once these details are worked out.
Peter, Dirk and I have also formed a working party to revise our somewhat crusty constitution and to bring it in line with the new legislation on associations. We made some progress on this task in August, but given that Dirk is away climbing Mt. Elbrus and Peter walking the Haute Route, our progress has stalled somewhat since then. However, we will have everything in place for the next AGM.
Finally, we are still digesting the results of the survey of our members. It raised a lot of issues, and we are in the process of deciding what to prioritize over the next half year. We are a small committee of volunteers and we cannot possibly do all we would like to.
As far as the “Subcommittee on Sending” is concerned, everybody but Pete seems to have gotten out there and climbed some routes – or mountains, as in Dirk’s case. Nat, meanwhile, has worked on increasing the CAWA membership – he became a proud father! So the “CAWA parents’ group” is growing…
That’s all for now. Please feel free to contact any of the Committee members or myself, if you have any concerns, questions, or suggestions (http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/committee/ )
Stay safe out there, wear a helmet, and check your knot,
Registration is now open! – CANCELLED DUE TO POOR WEATHER CONDITIONS
Saturday, 24th September to Monday, 25th September 2016 (Queen’s Birthday Long Weekend)
Please be aware that the weather is the deciding factor on this trip and if it is still raining (down south) shortly before the trip then the rock will be unclimbable and the trip will be cancelled. At this stage the weather is not looking good. However, the final decision will be made on Wednesday, 21st September. Until then think positive and make your daily sacrifice to the rain gods.
Mt Frankland is located in the Mt Frankland National Park and is about 30km north of Walpole. It’s quite a drive from Perth, probably 5 hours give or take, but in my opinion it’s well worth it.
Your CAWA trip coordinators for this trip is Dirk Klicker.
The climbing is mainly bolted slab, with many routes up to 3 pitches long. So it is good if you are looking to gain some multi-pitch experience. The routes tend to be run-out, so people need to be fairly confident leading at the stated grade. Generally on CAWA trips there will be enough people around to lead the routes so that everyone can have a go. Most of the routes are bolted, but some require a mix of bolted and natural protection. Bolt plates will be required.
There is a variety of grades starting from about 15 and up. So there is something for everyone.
The camping area is called Fernhook Falls and it is a well set up campground (this means tents) with drop toilets, a nice undercover kitchen area and a lovely river nearby for smelly climbers to brave at the end of the day (there are no shower facilities). It does get cold overnight, so pack warm. On past trips the march flies have been out in force, so some good, strong insect repellent is also recommended in case we are unlucky again this year.
There is no pre-booking, so it’s a first come. We do not expect it to be full.
If you need directions please send Dirk an e-mail.
You do need to bring your own food and drinking water for this trip but you can leave the shovel behind (there is a tap in the kitchen that feeds from a rainwater tank for cooking/washing dishes). Walpole is not that far away (about 35km) if you do need supplies and there is other more salubrious accommodation around. There are minimal camping fees ($7 per night per person/$5 concession). The rangers come around and check.
Remember to bring your own firewood.
If you interested e-mail Dirk and he will send you a registration form to confirm that you will be attending.
Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.
All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, Mt Frankland is a good beginner’s crag. If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information.
Rockface Climbing Centre is running Commitment 2016 – a lead and top rope competition that opens on 24th August, the qualifier format runs over multiple weeks with finals over the weekend of 16th – 18th September. Competitors will be in the running to win a range of quality prizes from sponsors like Scarpa, Black Diamond, Climbing Anchors, So iLL, Mad Rock, Clif Bar and more.
The next CAWA Gym Crash will be held at the Boulder Hub in Wangara on Thursday the 11th of August from 6:30pm. Bouldering of all styles and levels are offered.
Bouldering doesn’t require a rope, a harness and not even a climbing buddy, having said that I would love to see more women attend. Sadly women were significantly outnumbered by men at the last gym crash. So if you have never bouldered, this is the perfect opportunity to give it a try and meet some new faces.
CAWA will also be offering a tasty Nandos dinner for the discounted price of $7. I will be taking orders at 7pm on the night, so please come see me before then if you would like to be included.
I look forward to seeing you all there. For those that don’t know me, ask one of the gym staff, they will point me out. My bio and pic are also on the CAWA website.
The Albany Coast Draft Management Plan 2016 was released by DPaW for public comments on 9th May 2016. Thanks to several CAWA committee members who scrutinized the plan, CAWA submitted comments on 6th July 2016.
The Draft Albany Management Plan covers 56 existing terrestrial parks and reserves totalling 32,457ha (Map 1, Appendix 1 of the plan). The lands are mainly located in the City of Albany, as well as southern parts of the shires of Plantagenet and Jerramungup. Climbing areas covered by the plan include the Gap, Natural Bridge, and Peak Head in the Torndirrup National Park, West Cape Howe in the West Cape Howe National Park and Waychinicup in the Waychinicup National Park. As it covers such a large area and variety of parks, it is written more strategically than other management plans.
This management plan, once gazetted, will replace all of the below listed plans as the statutory management plan for the parks and reserves within the planning area (including any proposed reserves that become vested with the Conservation Commission):
South Coast Regional Management Plan 1992–2002 (CALM 1992a)
Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve Management Plan 1995–2005 (CALM 1995a)
West Cape Howe National Park Management Plan 1995–2005 (CALM 1995b)
Interim management guidelines for Torndirrup, Gull Rock and Waychinicup national parks, as well as Mount Manypeaks and Arpenteur nature reserves
A non-statutory management plan also exists for Cheyne Bay: Cape Riche to Pallinup River (reserves 14986, 14987 and 31240)
Note that the Stirling Range and Porongorups are covered in the Stirling Range and Prongorups Management Plan, and Peak Charles is covered in the Esperance and Recherche Archipelago Management Plan that came into effect last year. (These were previously covered by the South Coast Regional Management Plan).
The strategic objectives of the Draft Albany Management Plan, which are derived from corporate DPaW objectives and provide overall guidance for the planning area, are:
to conserve and protect biodiversity and ecological integrity;
to conserve and protect the value of the land to the culture and heritage of Noongar people, and conserve and protect other cultural heritage;
to provide for recreation, tourism and community use for the appreciation of the area’s landscape, natural and cultural heritage values; and
to provide for sustainable resource use.
For context, the parks and reserves covered by the Management Plan have immense importance for biodiversity, Noongar and other cultural heritage, as well as have spectacular coastal landforms and scenery that attract many visitors, and are an integral part of the greater Albany community. It will always be a balancing act to maintain the above listed objectives.
As a background, the parks are located within the global biodiversity hot-spot of the South West Botanical Province. The Albany coast area has high conservation value based on the presence of several large and intact protected areas such as the Gull Rock, Torndirrup, Waychinicup and West Cape Howe National Parks and Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve; areas of high plant species diversity and endemism; and important refuges for threatened fauna (including the critically endangered Gilbert’s potoroo or ngilgyte (Potorous gilbertii) and several endangered ground-dwelling birds, flora and ecological communities.
The plan recognises that recreation (in all its forms) within the planning area mainly occurs along the coastal strip, and the major focus for visitor use is at Torndirrup, West Cape Howe, Gull Rock and Waychinicup national parks and Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve. While the majority of recreation sites within the planning area are associated with the provision of access to beaches and coastal inlets, and much of the activity at these sites is water based, these coastal parks and reserves also provide:
spectacular scenic destinations
a rustic, remote and wild sense of place
unique and varied landscapes
opportunities for numerous nature-based recreation activities and multi-user groups
unique natural experiences.
Consequently, the number of visitors to these popular coastal parks and reserves are high. In 2013–14, Torndirrup National Park was the sixth highest visited park/reserve in the State with about 431,528 visits (70% of the combined parks visits), and the most visited reserve in the planning area. ‘The Gap’ and ‘Natural Bridge’ sites within this park attracted about 209,587 visits alone (half of the visits were to the park). In comparison, Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve received about 107,000 visits, Waychinicup National Park received about 14,500 visits and West Cape Howe National Park received about 49,134 visits.
CAWA recognises that climbing is only one activity of many that occur within the numerous parks covered with the planning area of the Draft Albany Management Plan, but the plan contains several key and very important climbing areas. This and the consideration of the above mentioned considerations are reflected in CAWA’s submission to DPaW submitted on 6 July 2016.
CAWA would like to thank everyone who participated in the recent CAWA survey.
An overwhelming number of responses was received from both CAWA members and the wider climbing community.
Congratulations to Ash Thomas who won the draw and scored a brand new 9.8mm Beal climbing rope!
Once all responses have been collated, the CAWA committee can identify what West Australian climbers, as a whole, want. In turn the CAWA committee can plan future events and create a focus that serves the greater climbing community of Western Australia.
If you are not a member and would like to become one to help CAWA plan future events please follow the link: Become a Member
Once again thank you for your participation in the survey.
It’s time to grab your winter woollies and pack up your car for a fun-filled climbing weekend to Eaglestone, 3.5 hours east of Perth in the Wheatbelt.
After numerous requests from fellow members this year we will be running a dress-up theme to showcase your best climbing attire. I would like your help choosing a theme, so please vote using the CAWA registration form below.
Voting will close 10 days prior to the trip date (20th July), with the theme chosen by the most votes. Vote carefully as there will be prizes for best climbing costume, best costume of the day and hardest/most routes in your costume!
With approximately 30 bolted, trad and mixed routes there is something for everyone. Eaglestone has large granite boulders with good face climbing. Abseil stations are positioned on top of the major boulders. There are a number of fantastic routes including Wishbone (17**), Capachow (19**), Pink Rings (18*) and Ithica (22**). So be sure to check out your Perth Rock Climbing Guide for route and access information.
Camping at Eaglestone is super easy with the campground only a stone’s throw away from the crag. There is the luxury of a drop toilet, so no need to pack a shovel. However, there are no other facilitates or water so you will need to be completely self-sufficient. A guide of what to bring:
Cooking & camping gear, including plenty of water
Firewood – there isn’t any to be collected from the ground, so we ask each car to bring firewood (it will be very cold at night, a camp fire will make the weekend infinitely warmer!)
Warm clothing for night
You don’t need a 4WD but there is a short section of dirt road followed by a section of good sand track easily accessible by 2WD.
Most people will be travelling there Friday evening or Saturday morning. The Merredin bakery is a must before heading out to Eaglestone Rock, with tasty treats to satisfy your climbing hunger.
Eaglestone is always a fun weekend and a great chance to meet other climbers, so we hope you can join us on the trip.
If you have any queries or would like to find out any further information, please don’t hesitate to drop me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org
Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.
CAWA is holding a gym crash at PWR Urban Ascent on the 21st June at 6:30pm, 24 Jackson Street, Bassendean.
So join CAWA and come on down to PWR Urban Ascent where you can mash yourself on some climbing walls that have been inspired by the deep red and yellow rocks of the Kimberly. Seven lead stations, various top rope stations and a boulder to pump yourself out on. An ice climbing wall is also there (for an extra cost).
CAWA guide books are for sale ($25ea) and our awesome blue t-shirts can be purchased ($25ea). Please bring exact money if you wish to purchase them.
There will be food (pizza or sandwiches) for all those who so desire, however there will be an extra cost of $5.