20 new routes in Kalbarri

Home Forum First Ascents 20 new routes in Kalbarri

This topic contains 3 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Remi 3 years, 2 months ago.

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    Remi

    CONTROL TOWER
    The control tower wall is the orange wall located directly above the runway (Drop Zone). The base of the wall can be access by scrambling up easy ground about 50m downstream from the Drop Zone.

    Sneaking out the Window 12m 16* (Trad)
    Start straight under the vertical crack. Progress up several meters, then move around left along esthetic rock formation. Sneak out the window and up onto the roof above. Although tempting, the direct alternative (17) up the arete has very sharp edges likely to cut the rope. Descent by scrabbling along slope ridge (heading downstream)
    FA: Remi Vignals, Delphine Chabanne – 30/09/2012

    Breaking curfew 10m 22 (Trad)
    Located 3m right of SOTW where the wall steepens. A deep L hand pocket will get you off the ground. The line goes up and slightly R. Despite reasonable gear placement, it is an enerving 6m of pumpy steepness.
    FA: Remi Vignals – 7/06/2014

    Whispering Freedom 10m 20* (Mixed)
    Reminiscent of the flat ledges found at the Promenade, it offers a great series of moves. Start on the steepest section of the wall between BC and MF. The first pocket used for protection seem to only fit narrow SLCDs. 1 bolt. Same lower off as Midnight Flit.
    FA: Remi Vignals, Alex Jasper – 25/07/2014

    Midnight Flit 10m 21* (Mixed)
    Entertaining start and worthwhile moves on all shapes of rock. Follow the most distinctive line direcly under the bolt and lower offs.
    FA: Remi Vignals – 8/06/2014

    ADVENTURE WALL

    Evening Tunes 16m 19* (Trad)
    Start on the RHS of the first stepped terrace. Place gear early or secure the belayer. Move slightly right to get off the ground then back left along slope to the thin corner. Continue straight up to the top pass the middle of the drum sounding flat feature above. Play a few beats if you dare!
    FA: Remi Vignals – 26/07/2014

    Morning Poetry 17m 17* (Trad)
    Start 2m right of the first stepped terrace. Avoid ledge at 2m by climbing slightly steeper wall. Then up a straight line to the middle flake and continuing directly toward the dead tree at the top, finishing right (possibly on reachy holds) to avoid tree branches. Fiddly but fine gear.
    FA: Remi Vignals, Shevaun Cooley – 19/07/2014

    Too Late 17m 19 (Trad)
    Directly up the large scoop, then move left half a meter to stay left of P&J. Less than ideal placements on bad rock. Climb it only if you have to.
    FA: Remi Vignals – 21/06/2014

    Romario 17m 16* (Trad)
    Straight up the small scoop in between P&J and 9-6=3
    FA: Ross Weiter, Mario De Decker – 1/06/2014

    Binary Tree 20m 19 (Trad)
    Start 1m right of large river gum on the yellow coloured rock in between two water streak. No gear until the horizontal break at 4m. Continue straight up pass steeper section to finish 1m right of bowl depression.
    FA: Remi Vignals, Delphine Chabanne – 7/06/2014

    Algorithm 20m 20 (Trad)
    Start behind the slopping block in the short space between two water streak (hopefully dry). No gear until the horizontal break at 4m. Continue straight up steeper terrain, use blocky flakes along the way, keeping the line straight.
    FA: Remi Vignals – 8/06/2014

    BISON WALL – PROMENADE
    Pontoon 22m 19 (Trad)
    Start 10m left of It’s a Boy or 2m left of Peek-a-boo, just below the right hand side of the pontoon size ledge. A small pocket under the pontoon is useful to protect the first boulder move. Continue by traversing 8m left (horizontally) under the next roof. Exit and finish diagonally another 8m to the top crack of Chimney Sweep. A good outing!
    FA: Remi Vignals, Brian Tan – 2/06/2013

    Pontoon Direct 25m 19 (Trad)
    Same bouldery start as Pontoon, but instead of going left, go straight up the break, moving a little left before using juggy roof. Keep a straight line and watch for rope drag as you negociate the two short walls above.
    FA: Remi Vignals, Brian Tan – 22/06/2014

    Peek-a-boo 22m 21* (Trad)
    Start 8m left of It’s a Boy, where the chocolate coloured band of rock juts out to present a start hold. Keep heading upwards and diagonally right through a series of horizontal breaks to exit out the overhanging roof at its narrowest spot. Well protected with cams.
    FA: Brian Tan, Remi Vignals – 1/06/2013

    RHS of BLACK WALL

    Santa’s Holiday 18m 10* (Trad)
    Fun climbing up the chimney. Avoid hollow sounding protuding rock behind (low).
    FA: Brian Tan, Gesa Graser, Aurelien Delume, Emmeline Audic – 1/06/2014

    Pof Relief 17m 20 (Trad)
    A mid-size cam eater! Start on the pedestal, go up one move and trend left of the hueco continuing straight up the highest part of the wall.
    FA: Remi Vignals, Delphine Chabanne – 1/06/2014

    VOID WALL
    The vertical wall located 50m downstream and opposite the Ravine.

    The Void 15m 17* (Trad)
    This face climb starts with a leg stretch across the wide gap. Progress diagonally from the left to the right of the wall.
    FA: Scott Bolladeras, Brian Tan – 16/07/2010

    Fisting the Swear Jar 15m 19 (Trad)
    A crack corner located a little bit further downstream. Exact location TBC.
    FA: Scott Bolladeras, Brian Tan – 16/07/2010

    BEAVER WALL
    Around the corner left of COLISEUM facing north at Four Ways

    Eager Beaver 20m 18* (Trad)
    Start on a crimp to reach a small ledge at 2m, then slightly right a few meters to gain horizontal ramp, right again to finish up the right leaning crack (same as Determination). Walk off carefully left and down.
    FA: Jean-Philippe Dumas, Gesa Graser – 20/06/2014

    Determination 20m 20** (Trad)
    Join the two discontinued cracks in the middle of the wall. Needs a good clean. 1 x BD C4#5 + 1 x BD C4 #4 useful. Walk off carefully left and down.
    FA: Remi Vignals, Gesa Graser – 20/06/2014

    Feral Goat Express 20m 7X (Solo)
    The easy looking ramp on the right side of Beaver Wall with loose rocks. Hint: goat carcasses were found at the bottom. Best to avoid this way up or down.
    FA: Brian Tan (solo) – 20/06/2014

    #148375 Reply

    Ryan

    Awesome work Remi and crew, great to see some development finally happening up in Kalbarri!

    #148422 Reply

    Ross

    Well done. Looks like enough material for a miniguide! 🙂

    #149255 Reply

    Remi

    Minor correction: “Whispering Freedom” should be called “Wandering Moths”

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