A couple of new Kalbarri routes

Home Forum First Ascents A couple of new Kalbarri routes

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  • #1888 Reply

    Chris Jones

    The Coliseum – Four Ways

    The beautifully positioned and imposing wall immediately opposite the Four Ways walking track; much bigger and far less broken than first appearances suggest. An incredible crag with potential for many mid to hard grade sport routes; slightly sandy and slabby starts give way to ferociously pumpy wall climbing that features hard boulder-problem cruxes. A delightfully airy setting allows for swimming, sun baking and bird watching in between redpoints – be sure to give the tourist groups a wave.

    If you are looking for somewhere to put up new routes in WA then look no further. The Coliseum and the handful of short but steeper cliffs five to ten minutes upstream present many interesting possibilities. With thoughtful and considered development the Coliseum may one day be the best crag in W.A. Check with the rangers before bolting and make sure not to avoid the major challenges in favor of “filling in blanks” – we don’t need another Promenade.

    To access; walk in as for Four Ways and cross the river via boulder hop on right – 35 minutes from the car. The crag is shady until midday but the mornings can often be greasy; the best conditions can be found in the final few hours before sunset when the cliff is bathed in surreal light. Don’t forget your camera.

    The Routes – described right to left

    (1) Dead Set Fair Dinkum

    18m Grade 24/5 **

    Tackles the prominent roof and wall just left of the major prow. A boulder problem start trends right to pumpy jug haul and thoughtfully sustained wall climbing. A brief respite beside the penultimate bolt allows the final crux to be overcome before the victory jugs.

    6 bolts (FH) to 2 bolt lower-off.

    FA: A. Lampard, S. Holland, B. Fleming, July 2003

    (2) It’s Not Rocket Surgery

    16m Grade 26 **

    Pad carefully up the slab past the first bolt and make reachy clip (a Friend 1 can be placed to protect). Ape out the stepped roof towards massive jugs past a number of bolts. Shake out, clip the final bolt and slap for the very sharp lip. An exciting mantle guards the anchor.

    5 bolts (FH) to 2 bolt anchor. Do not lower-off. Down-climb to avoid rope damage on very sharp lip.

    FA: C. Jones, July 2003

    (3) Swan Song – 26m Grade 29 ****

    A truly world-class climb featuring sustained, difficult and exposed climbing on brilliant rock. Originally spied and abseiled by D. Toulalan, the line was abandoned and stood dormant for many years. An absolute four star mega-classic.

    Starting from the foot-ledge, three interesting mantles lead to a steep wall and a hard boulder problem crux past the fifth bolt. A brief shake is followed by a difficult cross through and rock-over on immaculate rock to gain a horizontal break where a Friend can be placed. Shake out and climb direct through the roof past the last bolt and the final crimpy boulder problem crux. A tenuous clip with big fall potential makes for a classic finish.

    7 bolts (FH) and 1.5 Friend to 2 bolt lower-off. Stick clip 2nd bolt as original first bolt smashed into uselessness by meddling tour guide. Best to use a 60m rope.

    FA: C. Jones, July 2003

    #1889 Reply

    Rob Wall

    What do you mean by

    “- we don’t need another Promenade” ?

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