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bolts on Toy Shopping @ Bob’s.
it’s long been a WA climbing rite of passage to slump onto the droopy, wobbly P-bolts on toy shopping before lowering off the single glued in machine bolt.
not that long ago the second bolt fell out…. and then was replaced (thanks pat?) along with the 4th bolt.
on the weekend i pulled out the old 4th bolt by hand…. and could have done the same with the 1st bolt but decided to clip it instead of running it out.
i can’t see anyone having any objections to rebolting the “character” bolts and improving the lower-off.
but what about changing out the glued in machine bolts (last 2 bolts before the lower-off) ?
any comments ?
as an aside, all the stories you may have heard about the bolts at bob’s are true. i.e water coming out of the hole after drilling and rock that has a brittle outer crust and is sand underneath.
with this in mind, and the ease at which the toy shopping bolts have fallen out, punters should avoid lowering off single bolts unless they can bounce. and yes, lots of ppl do this. if you don’t make the loweroff, at least thread the last TWO bolts on the climb on your way down or back fall the route……
Replace the hex heads! No point in having 2 bolts requiring hangers on Toyshopping if the first 4 are P’s! (plus I assume the glue is the same on the machine bolts as was used for the P’s which didn’t do much for the P’s considering one fell out and another got pulled out with a bit of encouragement!)
WOW , if there’s water coming out of drilled holes and others have sand underneath, you wouldn’t want to fall off as i sounds to me ( and im no geo.) that its a tad unstable.
Neil,
I think that re-bolting the route properly ie. all p’s, is definately the right thing too do. I would find it hard to believe that the FA bolted the route with the mix of p’s and hex heads to add character. I think it would have definately had something to do with a tight fist and a lack of resources!.
If the rock is as bad as you say you might want to consider big U-bolts (longer than p’s) as used in weaker sydney sandstones.
ok, things have been rebolted. see margaret river rebolting thread for more details. thanks lots to george for getting this whole rebolting thing off the ground.
toy shopping (26) – DBB added and cr*p P-bolts replaced, machine bolts replaced. (need to pull out the old bolts though)
fire power (23) – 2 bolt runners added instead of the two slings at the start.
Thyeses’ Feast (19?!) – 6 bolt runners added.
Between the fin and black lung.
Toby Mack, Pat Turner (2001 ?) – slings only to DBB / lower-off. 6 bolt runners added 2007.
What Toby says about Thyeses’ Feast:
“comes in at about 19. the first two slings worth are about 16. after which a small traverse left ups the climbing to 17. and ends following the obvious flake feature to an airy 19 finish at two ring bolts. just incase anyone was wondering what the hell those tatty slings were doing there. the plan was to fully bolt the route, never got around to it, will one day as it is a little dangerous with just the slings. must admit lost enthusiasm to bolt it once I had ticked it.”
What neil says:
“a great addition to bob’s hollow now that it has been bolted. climb up the left side of the fin before traversing L a bit and then up on jugs to a mega big, but thin jug. a bit cruxy from here to gain and clip the lower-offs…. seems rather rude @ grade 19. comments ?? opinions ???
Neil what exactly is a bolt runner? Do you mean that you have replaced the tatty slings with new slings or does the route now have P-bolts?
Should be at Bob’s on Saturday, looking forward to trying the climb!
bolt runner = P-bolt.
tatty slings are still there. will remove them on next visit – needed to use them to place new bolts.
FYI 5mins prior to the rebolt, the route was led just using the tatty 6 year old slings for pro by some nameless show off.
😛
Thanks Neil- if the slings are still there when I’m down south this weekend are you happy for me to remove them or would you prefer to do so yourself?
