This topic contains 10 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by Ben Fleming 14 years, 2 months ago.
June 7, 2004 at 12:00 am #2166
Today we got off our pomy looking bot-bots and made our way over to boulder rock. thought we’d give our view of some of the ratings and add a name or two.
routes 14-16, marked v1, i’d downgrade to v0.
route 17 (project), v0, “Contains psyllium as part of a high fibre diet”.
39 john dory, v0, re-rate as v1 or easy v2.
otherwise, i reckon the ratins are pretty good, we had a great time and i’m knackered!June 12, 2004 at 12:00 am #2167
Just a few comments in regard to your post….
your’ve just rated a previously unfinished project “V0” which is a pretty easy boulder problem and anyone with a little climbing experience should be able to do…
just think this is a little strange when you have a set of boulderers out here who whould have nailed it easily if it was only V0…
any chance you were on the wrong problem?
and fair enough downgrading climbs 1 v grade (V1 to V0) but whats with upgrading a climb possibly 2 grades???
I think given your posting history on this site in regard to your climbing experence..the guys who put the boulder rock guide together are a lot more capable to grading the said problems…
I’m not trying to be offensive or start a flame war but just trying to put some perspective on the situation..
Grading of climbs can lead to problems, particularly if the climb is over or under rated.
An when these ratings are posted for where the general public and people new to climbing can get hold of the information.June 12, 2004 at 12:00 am #2168
No worries mate, I know exactly where you’re coming from. It wasn’t just me who was there (I’d be happy to scab grades on any level, don’t worry). The grading at boulder rock seems to be done by multiple people and a ‘first run’, as in it needs refining by a bunch of other climbers that they all agree on. I dunno if I wrote “it is V1 (etc.)”, or if I wrote ” Ireckon it should’ve been v1″.
Either way, nothing here should be gospel. When we turned up, it was a mte of mine and I and two guys who where experienced climbers from the UK. They were having a go at the v0 which they decided should be upgraded, not me. I tried it out and agreed with them. The climbing grade was nothing like the other v0s around it but was comparable to a climb one or two grades ahead of it (this from three climbers with different skills).
I know I’m young and enthusiastic and post more than most other people, I just hope someone else gets a little more involved than me! 😉 The forums are meant to be USED. 😉
Ben’s guide was a first release and he said he’d revise it in future, half the climbs are un-named and a lot are projects, so it a work in progress. You’d have to actaully go there and try the route before making a counter argument though. It’s kind of a weird route……June 12, 2004 at 12:00 am #2169
Oops, forgot to mention, the most logical answer to this would probably be that Ben got the numbers mixed up between the route next to it and that route. The list of climbs is long and it’d be very easy to make a mistake about which was which when you’ve got 46 routes to deal with.
I’d say the supposed v1 next to it was actually John Dory and the route next to it was actually the v0 (which would make more sense). Sorry, I really should’ve mentioned that, I was tired at the end of a long day’s drive!June 19, 2004 at 12:00 am #2170
John, problem 17 would be at least V10. In fact any of the projects will be V7+ You probably mislocated this problem and found something easier nearby, probably #16… Read the description, 17 is: “Sit-start, small crimps desperate mantle”.
In retrospect some of the problems may be undergraded. But don’t worry too much about grades you will have much more fun climbing problems with one two or three stars, than just ticking numbers.
Hopefully I will have a first draft Kalamunda Bouldering Guide out in 2-3 months. This area contains Perth’s best bouldering. In fact having bouldered in france, nz, north america and of course all over WA, Kalamunda has bouldering of world-class quality, it just lacks quantity.
BenJune 19, 2004 at 12:00 am #2171
Hey Ben, Do you mind sending me a topo of the bouldering at boulder rock???
Id been keen on checking it out. my email is firstname.lastname@example.org
PatJune 19, 2004 at 12:00 am #2172
Ben are you going to let everyone know when the kalamunda bouldering topo is ready?
and if your going to post it out put me down for one…June 20, 2004 at 12:00 am #2173
Cheers for that Ben, it did seem off that a project so easy would be left off.
As far as I can remember, it was the two English climbers I met there that gave their opinion and I noted it down and said I’d post it for them (I don’t remember doing the route myself). Apologies to the two guys if I’m wrong by the way and you’re reading, I’ve got zilch memory of the route!
Ben, do you think John Dory is one over though? It’d certainly make sense if it were swapped with the one next to it.
I might stop procrastinating and make a mini-guide around my area too, I’ve started drawing the odd, topo, who knows, eh?June 22, 2004 at 12:00 am #2174
It occurs to me that the logical place to place these topo guides would be this web site, where everyone can find them, as per the climbing miniguides.June 23, 2004 at 12:00 am #2175
I agree with Ross’s comment. If you are interested in CAWA hosting the guides please let us know. You can email email@example.comJune 29, 2004 at 12:00 am #2176
I will email the guide to CAWA and I will do the same for future guides. Hopefully the Kalamunda guide will be ready in August. There is a lot there so it takes time!