Home Forums Bouldering WA Boulder Rock goings on, ratings, etc.

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  • #2166 Reply
    John Knight
    Guest

    Today we got off our pomy looking bot-bots and made our way over to boulder rock. thought we’d give our view of some of the ratings and add a name or two.

    routes 14-16, marked v1, i’d downgrade to v0.

    route 17 (project), v0, “Contains psyllium as part of a high fibre diet”.

    39 john dory, v0, re-rate as v1 or easy v2.

    otherwise, i reckon the ratins are pretty good, we had a great time and i’m knackered!

    #2167 Reply
    concerned party
    Member

    Just a few comments in regard to your post….

    your’ve just rated a previously unfinished project “V0” which is a pretty easy boulder problem and anyone with a little climbing experience should be able to do…

    just think this is a little strange when you have a set of boulderers out here who whould have nailed it easily if it was only V0…

    any chance you were on the wrong problem?

    and fair enough downgrading climbs 1 v grade (V1 to V0) but whats with upgrading a climb possibly 2 grades???

    I think given your posting history on this site in regard to your climbing experence..the guys who put the boulder rock guide together are a lot more capable to grading the said problems…

    I’m not trying to be offensive or start a flame war but just trying to put some perspective on the situation..

    Grading of climbs can lead to problems, particularly if the climb is over or under rated.

    An when these ratings are posted for where the general public and people new to climbing can get hold of the information.

    #2168 Reply
    John Knight
    Member

    No worries mate, I know exactly where you’re coming from. It wasn’t just me who was there (I’d be happy to scab grades on any level, don’t worry). The grading at boulder rock seems to be done by multiple people and a ‘first run’, as in it needs refining by a bunch of other climbers that they all agree on. I dunno if I wrote “it is V1 (etc.)”, or if I wrote ” Ireckon it should’ve been v1″.

    Either way, nothing here should be gospel. When we turned up, it was a mte of mine and I and two guys who where experienced climbers from the UK. They were having a go at the v0 which they decided should be upgraded, not me. I tried it out and agreed with them. The climbing grade was nothing like the other v0s around it but was comparable to a climb one or two grades ahead of it (this from three climbers with different skills).

    I know I’m young and enthusiastic and post more than most other people, I just hope someone else gets a little more involved than me! 😉 The forums are meant to be USED. 😉

    Ben’s guide was a first release and he said he’d revise it in future, half the climbs are un-named and a lot are projects, so it a work in progress. You’d have to actaully go there and try the route before making a counter argument though. It’s kind of a weird route……

    #2169 Reply
    John Knight
    Member

    Oops, forgot to mention, the most logical answer to this would probably be that Ben got the numbers mixed up between the route next to it and that route. The list of climbs is long and it’d be very easy to make a mistake about which was which when you’ve got 46 routes to deal with.

    I’d say the supposed v1 next to it was actually John Dory and the route next to it was actually the v0 (which would make more sense). Sorry, I really should’ve mentioned that, I was tired at the end of a long day’s drive!

    #2170 Reply
    Ben Fleming
    Member

    John, problem 17 would be at least V10. In fact any of the projects will be V7+ You probably mislocated this problem and found something easier nearby, probably #16… Read the description, 17 is: “Sit-start, small crimps desperate mantle”.

    In retrospect some of the problems may be undergraded. But don’t worry too much about grades you will have much more fun climbing problems with one two or three stars, than just ticking numbers.

    Hopefully I will have a first draft Kalamunda Bouldering Guide out in 2-3 months. This area contains Perth’s best bouldering. In fact having bouldered in france, nz, north america and of course all over WA, Kalamunda has bouldering of world-class quality, it just lacks quantity.

    Cheers,

    Ben

    #2171 Reply
    Pat Turner
    Member

    Hey Ben, Do you mind sending me a topo of the bouldering at boulder rock???

    Id been keen on checking it out. my email is meplat@hotmail.com

    Thanks mate

    Pat

    #2172 Reply
    jamie
    Member

    Ben are you going to let everyone know when the kalamunda bouldering topo is ready?

    and if your going to post it out put me down for one…

    #2173 Reply
    John Knight
    Member

    Cheers for that Ben, it did seem off that a project so easy would be left off.

    As far as I can remember, it was the two English climbers I met there that gave their opinion and I noted it down and said I’d post it for them (I don’t remember doing the route myself). Apologies to the two guys if I’m wrong by the way and you’re reading, I’ve got zilch memory of the route!

    Ben, do you think John Dory is one over though? It’d certainly make sense if it were swapped with the one next to it.

    I might stop procrastinating and make a mini-guide around my area too, I’ve started drawing the odd, topo, who knows, eh?

    #2174 Reply
    Ross
    Member

    It occurs to me that the logical place to place these topo guides would be this web site, where everyone can find them, as per the climbing miniguides.

    #2175 Reply
    Dinah
    Member

    I agree with Ross’s comment. If you are interested in CAWA hosting the guides please let us know. You can email webmaster@climberswa.asn.au

    #2176 Reply
    Ben Fleming
    Member

    I will email the guide to CAWA and I will do the same for future guides. Hopefully the Kalamunda guide will be ready in August. There is a lot there so it takes time!

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