This topic contains 2 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by steve 13 years, 7 months ago.
January 16, 2005 at 12:00 am #3280
i was recently guiding at willys for an italian climber,
shown that he has a wealth of experience of twenty years at grades of about 28 onsight, i guessed it would be ok to allow him to lead on some natural pro on a grade 19 .seconding up after him i saw his placements were bomber however when i aproached his most crucial piece of pro at the crux that was his only protection from a serious ground fall i was horrified to see that
he had extended his wire to reduce drag,his intent was good but he had treaded his sling directly through his wire .
it was certain that if he had fallen on this grade 19 crux he would have cut through the sling and taken a 20m deckout.
(lucky for him he climbs much harder than 19 and not pushed to his limit)
the funny thing was when i questioned him about it on top of the climb he replied with “sure i know the danger in doing so and mabey i should have used a biner but it was only an easy climb” i replied with “don’t you have sand baggers in italy?”
“it is not the hard climbs that kill hard climbers it is the easy ones that they do not respect with the same protection”…January 28, 2005 at 12:00 am #3281
I agree – it’s the easy climbs that kill. You’re 20 metres up and soloing a grade 12 and get stung by a wasp – and you’re dead. Not a good way to go.February 2, 2005 at 12:00 am #3282
im sure everybody once in there climbing career is tempted to solo somthing…but before doing so consider this…
if you must follow your urge to do so ,do it without a rope and belayer because the last thing you want is your partner going through life living the guilt and feeling as if they could have done somthing to save you when it was impossibal.
do it when there are no innocent bystanders trying have a nice day out only to have it ruined by a guy or girl in a heap at the base of a climb with his brain hangin out.or if you survive..having to pull together to make a rescue.
take a suicide note that reflects your urge to solo, so that your friends and family can say at your funeral”at least he/she went doing somthing they loved…
little do they know you were at the bottom of the climb busted up and in agony for a day before you died.
the reputation of the sport and accsess to crags depend on safety and you may not only die but have a crag closed to climbers and then you will be rememberd as the dickhead who got climbing banned at willy,s.