Faye Bluff

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    Faye Bluff is located at -29.895123, 119.366428.

    Figuring out how to get there is half the fun, so I will leave that to prospective adventurers. The roads/tracks are fine if you are suitably prepared. It would be possible to get there with a soft roader if you wanted to. There are several nice camp sites close to the base of the cliff. There are other things of interest to climbers in the area. Have fun exploring.

    The following routes were all on the biggest, grey face, which is the most obvious feature to climbers. The grey rock is excellent quality. The orange rock is highly amusing looking and we didn’t do any climbing on it. However, there are a number of possible lines that look feasible for future explorers who don’t mind a bit of route maintenance. It’s a lovely place, worth a visit for those seeking adventure.

    Routes described from left to right when looking up at the main grey face:

    1) Chert Corner, 12, 8m
    Not particularly Chert like from memory. The easy corner on the far left of the main face, starts from a ledge a few metres higher than the main ledge. Abseil in, or climb up.
    Neil Gledhill, Chris Swain, September 2015

    2) 6m of Bliss 12, 6m
    The pleasant wide crack starting from the same ledge as Chert Corner.
    Chris Swain, Neil Gledhill, September 2015

    3) The Face of Faye, 18, 15m
    Down on the main ledge, the leftmost line up the steep and smooth face. Brilliant climbing, which from the ground looks unlikely. Go slightly left from the start to gain the large sidepulls then back right and up the crack near the top. Doesn’t look protectable from the ground, hence it was not led. But on TR the gear was found to be adequate if you are very confident at the grade.

    4) Two Bars, 16, 15m
    Takes the great looking crack with a small tree growing out of it. Very pleasant face and crack climbing. Some poor rock next to the tree, but otherwise excellent quality rock and gear.
    Neil Gledhill, Chris Swain, September 2015

    5) Bull Bars, 15, 15m
    Right of Two Bars is a large crack. A bit loose at the top, but otherwise a fine outing.
    Neil Gledhill, Chris Swain, September 2015


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