Walk upstream of the Avery on the south bank about half a km, until under a 30m overhanging amphitheatre with a number of bolted routes. Scramble 4m up to the platform along the base of the amphitheatre. Belay on the east end under the left hand arete of the amphitheatre.
From the platform step up onto a small ledge from where the first bolt of the arête climb is accessible (for tall people). Climb straight up past the bolt (16) or step left and mantle. Ascend easily to the base of the corner left of the arete. Climb the large crack right of the corner to a platform (optional belay stance). From the platform step right onto the face and ascend 4m to the base of a large off-width left of the summit roof. From the off-width step left and ascend to the left of the roof.
FA N.Gledhill 2004
Pleasant relief from the high grade sports routes. Repeat ascents on the June06 week end were enjoyed by all. Note the climb is natural, and using the first bolt of the arete climb gives a big pendulum from the face on the left.