Myself and a buddy were climbing Lost Craig (Kalamunda) on the weekend… I noted two climbs Bohemian Ballet and the next climb over that were graded 11 and 12 in the guide….I was on the sharp end and they certainly did not feel like 11 or 12, more like a traditional 15 or 16…
I heard a rumour that local Perth climbs are “sports” graded rather than “Ewbank” graded…can anyone shed any light on this?
If the local climbs are 2-3 grades less as compared to the Ewbank grading, as they are graded “sports” climbs it would be nice to know!
Not sure exactly what you’re getting at here, but the Ewbank system is used to grade sport and traditional routes identically. The grade refers to the difficulty of climbing the route, regardless of how it’s protected. If you’re talking about indoor vs outdoor grades, the grading is supposed to be the same as well, but in that sort of grade range I think outdoor climbs will feel harder.
Hey Antony, my two cents for what it’s worth: climbing grades are necessarily subjective and perceptions of grade can change over time. Therefore, good on you for raising the question, because sometimes grades need reviewing. I climbed Lost World a few weeks ago – not sure if that is the next climb over you refer to. My impression was that the person I was climbing with perceived it as more difficult than I did because they had done a lot less slab climbing. I didn’t find the grade misleading, though I wasn’t deliberately analysing it either.
Perth routes are graded by difficulty of the moves, not by type of protection used, as per the normal Ewbank gr practice.
I would guess that Lost World seems harder to you because you are not used to that kind of climbing (slab). It is fully possible to be top gun on gr20 faces and overhangs and have a bad day on an ‘easy” slab. There are some gr17-18 slabs at Mt Cuthbert that will probably feel like gr20. I once saw a guy who could climb gr.30 face being rescued off a gr.19 slab, as he freaked out and could not move.