Home Forums Bolting Margaret River Re-bolting

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  • #4239 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    The following route has been re-bolted.

    Kyle 10m 23

    All bolts have been replaced and there are now 2 new loweroff bolts(at the 3rd bolt where everybody lowers off)

    3 p’s replaced with 3 fixe p’s

    3rd lower off bolt flexed when pressure was applied with a quickdraw!!

    All old bolts removed, except for the 2nd bolt, which we will remove soon!.

    Cost. $30

    as the fixe bolts are smaller than original bolt we will hopefully be putting some stainless twist shackles on each of the lower offs.

    1. Because it reduces wear on the bolts

    2. Because they are alot easy to replace when worn(don’t think the route receives that much traffic!, well not enough to wear through 2 rings:)

    *If you are going to toprope, please do it off your quickdraws/biners!.

    PEOPLE NEED TO START PUTTING THEIR MONEY WHERE THEIR MOUTHS ARE!- WE HAVEN’T RECEIVED ANYMORE DONATIONS…

    #4240 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    Sorry, that is 4 fixe p’s in total:)

    #4241 Reply
    Swiss Climbers
    Member

    SCWA said “Big thanks to the group of Swiss climbers that donated the money that means we will be able to get a lot of work done.”

    It’s a pleasure to see the loot go to a good home, we’re looking forward to clipping a few on future trips. Rod.

    #4242 Reply
    Emil
    Member

    Hey George

    Just saw your handiwork at Willys and Wallcliffe – Nice work. Great to not have my sphincter puckering when i lower of Bee Free. Keep it up yo!

    #4243 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    The following routes have been re-bolted:

    Banana Arma Rama 18m 23

    3 bolts- 2 on route and 1 lower-off.

    All old bolts were seriously corroded expansions, especially the 1 bolt lower-off that had an old seized snaplink hanging from it!. All bolts snapped off behind the hanger with crowbar assistance.

    all bolts were replaced and a 2nd loweroff was added.

    4 fixe p-bolts plus glue.

    Cost $27

    Bee Free 25m 27

    a 2nd loweroff has been added

    1 fixe p-bolt, plus glue

    Cost $7

    Thanks again team swiss!!

    #4244 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    The following route has been re-bolted:

    Fun Love and Joy 20m 24

    a 2nd loweroff has now been added.

    1 fixe ring +HY150

    Cost: $9

    #4245 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    HI Guys!,

    The following routes have been re-bolted:

    Freebies 25m 26

    All expansion bolts replaced with Fixe p-bolts- 7 Bolts + Glue

    Route used to loweroff 1 bolt, it now shares the same last bolt and loweroff as ITSFMP.

    Cost-$45 + alot of hanging around!

    I’m To Sexy For My Python

    25m 24

    All original really dodgy expansions have been replaced with Fixe P- bolts

    The route also now has a 2 bolt lower-off

    Looks like a beautiful route, which will surely see alot more action now:)can’t wait for the glue to dry!!:)

    9 Fixe P-bolts + HY 150

    Cost-$60

    Thanks again team Swiss!

    Total Cost $105 + alot of effort

    Big thanks goes out to Pascal for his assistance and french humour:)

    Also the Safer Cliffs WA webpage is now up and running, so we will keep it updated.

    http://www.safercliffs.org/westernaustralia

    Please folks!, keep dropping some spare change in those tins, it all helps.

    Cheers:)

    #4246 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    The following routes have been re-bolted:

    Wallcliffe:

    Banana Bender 12m 25

    1 expansion + 1 GIMB w/hanger, but no Glue!!! pulled out easily with crowbar

    Replaced with 2 Fixe ringbolt

    When I was a sperm 12m 26

    all expansions!, 1st and 2nd bolt had movement in the hole!! and had exposed shafts behind hanger

    All original bolt replaced with 5 Fixe ringbolts

    Cost $45

    Please we need donations! 🙂

    #4247 Reply
    George
    Member

    Went to Re-bolt Life according to gimp the other day, only to find that one of the main holds had broken of the start!. Not sure if someone had it break on them or whether it just fell of??, but it still looks dodgy and id take care on it in the future.

    Not to mention that it’s probably a wee bit harder now!!.

    glue gun broke, so no cigar on the RB front

    #4248 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    The following routes have been re-bolted:

    Stainless Steel 35m 21

    All 3 original carrots have been replaced with 100mm M10 GIMB w/ Hilti RE 500. Bolts screwed out under moderate pressure, revealing a 50mm total bolt with 30mm actually in the wall!!. The new bolts have 80mm embedded in the wall with thread runnning down the whole length(80mm).

    Steel More Ulster Madness 35m 24

    the 2 original SS carrots have been replaced with 100mm M10 GIMB’s. Both bolts were very deformed and were even shallower than those on SSteel!!. The 2nd bolt on the ramp snapped under very very little pressure (far less than a fall would generate!!!!)with obvious brittleness and corrosion.

    The first bolt on this route is also the 3rd bolt on Pascals route.

    Cost: $20

    Please support the fund and make a donation in one of the tins around town. 🙂

    #4249 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    The following routes have been re-bolted:

    Bobs Hollow

    Toy shopping 20m 26

    All the crappy p’s and hex heads have been replaced with well recessed p’s. There is also a new set of double p loweroffs.

    Fire Power 12m 23

    The 2 slings at the start have been replaced with p’s.

    Fin left side 20m 21?

    All slings have been replaced, which now offers a great moderate route with far less puckering…6 p’s total, loweroffs are still original.

    Total

    14 fixe p’s and 1 tubeish of Hilti RE500

    Cost$120.00

    A huge thanks must go out to the main driving force behind this days re-bolting, Neil and Kate. It great to see some more local climbers donating their time, effort, money and enthusiasm to this worthwhile initiative. Cheers guys, i’m sure others will enjoy the work.

    Neils 1.5m swinging toprope whipper with drill firmly swinging between his legs was definately a highlight for me…..:)

    #4250 Reply
    SCWA
    Member

    The Following Route has been re-bolted:

    Wallcliffe:

    Ebb and Flow 15m 24

    All orginal bolts have been replaced and the route now has a loweroff at the lip. The original finish required running in out 3-4m on really sharp rock and a razor sharp lip to slice your rope on should you fall!!. The belay was an ancients piece of Tat, rapped around a tiny sharp thread. All the Big trees (well wallcliffe big)are at least 10m back and this requires some serious bush bashing and really trashes the top of the cliff. So the loweroff is now at the 3rd bolt, which by the look of it is where most people have lowered off anyway.

    All the bolts have become very rusted and the nuts are seperating and fused.

    Cost:$ 35

    Thanks to those who have donated:)

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