Marmabup Rock, West face.

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This topic contains 2 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Conrad 3 months, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #188802 Reply

    Neil

    Marmabup Rock, West face.

    Access: From the summit head west toward Manvat Peak for 10-15m. Abseil 40m from good cracks to a very wide sloping ledge midway down the west face. You can also easily scramble down to the start of the routes from the summit along the northern end of the west face. These routes take the steepest, cleanest part of the upper west face and finish at the start of the abseil. Routes bolted with expansion bolts and hangers so you should be able to spot them easily.

    Custardly 40m, 18

    Left hand line of weakness through the slab. 10 bolts. Pleasant climbing up grooves and scoops to a delicate, slabby crux up high. Well protected. Really worthwhile.

    Conrad Slee, Neil Gledhill, Kate Swain, April 2018

    Excess Grip 40m, 19**

    Right hand line of weakness through the slab and then up the arete. Easy climbing on grooves takes you to a delightful, delicate and sustained rising traverse to a sloping arete. Up this and then easily to the top. Great climbing and a memorable position. Very grippy smearing !

    Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill, Conrad Slee, April 2018

    #188816 Reply

    Kate

    I would give Custardly a star. Great slab climbing and in a lovely location.

    #188818 Reply

    Conrad

    Custardly should have one star. Agreed.

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