Home Forums First Ascents Mountain Quarry, trad among the bolts.

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    Richard
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    The Last Syllable of Recorded Time 19

    Another variant on Split Personality / Vital Link. Diverges from existing lines at the large ledge halfway up SP. Start either on SP or up the first two BR on Ride of the Valkyries. From SP move right on the large ledge to where the head-high horizontal crack turns diagonally upwards (to eventually form the horizontal break on the ROTV crux). Layback move up the diagonal crack. Traverse left one meter, ignoring the superfluous bolt at knee level, to stand below the shallow open book. Strenuous, balancy move up into the open book finishing as for VL.

    FA 6/2/05 Ishmael, M Turner, and 3/4 Peter.

    The shady SP end of the bay has become a popular corner in the summer heat. TLSORT is a testing little trad section just to the right of the top bolt of Vital Link (bendy too, use long runners). Peter spotted it last year and we cleaned a lot of loose stuff. The ascent was put off, tomorrow and tomorrow etc, so the name. I made the first attempt, but pulled off a large flake after the layback move. I was arrested by the rope but knocked a leg on the ledge. The gear held handily, but took half an hour to get out. So put gear high up the diagonal crack. The line is now free of lose rock and nothing else should break. The ascent was made in mixed style, with Peter rejecting the easy bit at the top and insisting on being lowered off after the hard part. He thus rates only a partial mention. Later I followed Peter up VL which he led without hesitation. Using the little layaway to the left of the top bolt to reach through the blank band. Again a good climb. Going directly through the bolt would be interesting.

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