new climb at Mt Frankland

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    *** Dream Weaver (95m, 16)

    A well protected, sustained and enjoyable face climb. Start 10m L of Ian’s Lost Chance.

    (i) (35m, 16) Up R trending cracks (2 medium nuts), then up slab above past 7 bolts to sloping ledge and rings DBB.

    (ii) (35m, 16) Up L to overlap at 5m (nut), up and L through overlap to bulge (2nd bolt, crux), then trend R to next overlap past 3 more bolts. Directly up face past 3 bolts on dinner plate holds to ledge and rings DBB. 8 bolts total.

    (iii) (25m, 16) Trend L past bolt to short headwall, protected by one medium (#1) and one large (#2) cam. Pull through, then directly up slab above past 4 more bolts to rings DBB.

    Descent: abseil (can do on one 60m rope, not 50), or walk down L of top belay following edge of cliff, or summit path 50m directly beyond top belay.

    Gear: 8 bolt plates, 9 draws, medium nuts, medium/large cams.

    FA: Ross Weiter, Dinah Pantic, Sep 2003.

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