New mini guide for Statham’s Quarry !!!
This topic contains 9 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by Richard 1 week, 1 day ago.
April 29, 2008 at 12:00 am #6150
New Mini Guide for Statham’s Quarry:
Feedback welcome on names / grades / topos / best spots to abseil etc etc.
Apologies in advance if I haven’t flattered your favourite route(s) with stars. Let me know what you think and if it’s reasonable I can improve the guide. I am only aware of two bolted projects at Statham’s. They are both closed projects and are not in this mini guide– stay off please ! Although one looks like something from Cirque du Soleil at the moment, complete with dancing bear and tight rope.
The Mountain Quarry Mini Guide is being updated with some new routes and comments from this site and version 2.0 should be ready sometime this week. Accurate locations will be given of all choss piles and drilled holds. Thanks to Logan / Owen / others for feedback.April 29, 2008 at 12:00 am #6151
Few quick points. I tried your and Kates 22 (SG) and i couldnt do it. Stupid precise balancy reach. You cant do the move dynamically!!! This climb should be 34 for people under 5’2″. Also Ersatz definetely not doable as almost all has fallen off. Zombie Man has had about 3 to 5 very important holds fall off and now isnt doable. Also this was never 31. More like 29. I am pretty sure Jarrod thought this too.
Also someone should set up a camera so that we can capture the exact moment the 25kg block at the start of Agent de France gets pulled off into someones groinApril 29, 2008 at 12:00 am #6152
Thanks Logan. I will keep those points in mind for the next edition.
Vombatia (@ Mountain Quarry) might cause you some issues too….April 29, 2008 at 12:00 am #6153
tryed to get the pdf from inet as per your post but no joy, any ideas.?April 29, 2008 at 12:00 am #6154
Once again very nice effort. a lot of climbs missing though(from topo), especially at the lower grade end of the scale which would be what a lot of outdoor newbies would be after.April 30, 2008 at 12:00 am #6155
Lifestyle refugees on the karnal pillar was sporting a few extra bolts last time i was out there… the 2002 guide states it had 3 bolts from memory and i think i clipped about 5..
someone might need to check as it was over a month ago…April 30, 2008 at 12:00 am #6156
25 for batchain puller seems about right but it’s a tough one because the crux is really cryptic. I imagine it would feel really hard until you work out the beta (I lucked out when emil gave me the beta at the outset), then it feels reasonable.
I’d give it two stars. It’s varied and quite hard most of the way, almost all natural *gasp* with the exception of a few random chips that were not required. Slightly chossy at the end (we couldn’t work out the finish through the nice rock on the right)April 30, 2008 at 12:00 am #6157
I could not remove the block with a crowbar, so then I put some tactical glue around the edges to sure it up. The glue does not hold it up but prevents it from moving out. But nothing is for sure, really. Neither it should be. This is climbing, after all, and in this case the thing is abovious to all eyes. I guess it is about choices. Has been weight tested to 87kg about 6 times by me and Ed. For now.
RossOctober 16, 2014 at 1:49 pm #149396
What is the natural crack between Penthouse and Aerobics with Alan? An easy climb without bolts. – interesting nut placements. Probably soloed in prehistoric times by Adams?October 16, 2014 at 9:11 pm #149400
This should have been on the Mountain Quarry thread.. MQ mini-guide shows no climb between PH and AWA.