New route at Wallcliff

Home Forum First Ascents New route at Wallcliff

This topic contains 7 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Dena Rao 2 years, 9 months ago.

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  • #150957

    Rob B

    ‘Working Bee’ 18m 18
    Leftmost route on the crag. 4 m left of Soleless. 5 ring bolts to lower off.
    Good fun and great warmup for harder routes.
    Rob Baker, Olly Morrell, Jonas Hollingworth Dec 2014

    #150977

    Bob

    New things are good. But…. please exercise some sensitivity in this area.

    Wallcliffe has almost been banned for climbers a number of times and the current state of play was that no new bolts should be added. The last draft management plan for the region also stated this. As did the access agreement that dropped out of the mid 90’s. The current management plan says no climbing on coastal limestone (i.e Bobs and Wallcliffe).

    Refer to my prior post about Bob’s Hollow which had a link to the long since vanished draft plan. A “new” draft plan is under preparation according to the DPAW website.

    I suggest in the mean time that no new routes are done at Wallcliffe or the Northern Section of Bob’s Hollow.

    Please.

    #150979

    Bob
    #150984

    Rob B

    thanks for the info Bob. I want aware of these restrictions. Is there a better way to publicise them?

    #150995

    kym

    Copy that mate 🙂

    #151011

    Bob

    I thought there was a reference to this on the CAWA page but I can not find it. Probably best to get them to add it and/or dig up the most recent (but still old) access agreement for Wallcliffe. I previously posted concerns about the new routes at Bob’s Hollow near the fisherman’s cave. A definite no-no, especially with the use of perma-draws. I hope the perma-draws have been taken down.

    The draft management plan from 2010 has disappeared from DEC/DPAW’s website. DPAW now says there is another draft under prep. CAWA normally makes the appropriate submissions when the plans are up for comment. With careful googling you can find the 2010 draft plan. Some extracts to keep in mind are:

    Unauthorised climbing on limestone cliffs has evolved over the past 10 years and is becoming increasingly
    popular, offering climbers a different aspect of the sport to climbing on granite/gneiss. This was not permitted in
    the previous management plan and presents several concerns for managers in terms of visitor safety, visual
    landscape amenity, damage to the cliff environment and the high cost of maintenance/management. The most
    popular site is Bob‘s Hollow, which is a sea cliff that involves steep technical climbing and hence is limited to
    experienced climbers. A geotechnical examination of the sections of cliff used by recreational climbers
    considered the cliff to be sufficiently stable for climbing. Current access to the site is difficult, there is minor
    trampling and loss of vegetation at the cliff base, and there are minor visual impact from bolts and straps.
    Warning signs have been installed below the overhangs. This management plan proposes to permit climbing at
    Bob‘s Hollow but not encourage its use. Retaining the current level of vehicle access (a four-wheel drive track)
    to the site will limit visitor numbers and hence potential for damage.

    AND

    The objective is to provide opportunities for abseiling and rock climbing while ensuring
    visitor safety and preventing adverse impacts to key values.
    This will be achieved by:
    1. Designating appropriate abseiling sites and managing these activities according to the cave and abseil
    permit system, departmental policy and the CALM Regulations as required.
    2. Continuing to permit abseiling at authorised sites subject to geotechnical inspections. No abseiling
    will be permitted at Wallcliffe cliff or new/unauthorised limestone abseil sites.
    3. Allowing rock climbing at Wilyabrup Cliffs, Moses Rock and Gracetown Crag but with no further
    bolting. Rock climbing at Cosy Corner and Wallcliffe Cliff face will be permitted subject to an
    environmental assessment and geotechnical inspection.
    4. For all other areas, prohibiting climbing on limestone other than Bob‘s Hollow. Climbing at Bob‘s
    Hollow will be restricted to the southern section of the cliff and will be subject to regular geotechnical
    assessment. If conditions change in the future, the site may be closed to climbing. Use of Bob‘s
    Hollow by organised groups or groups with dependant participants will not be permitted.
    5. Not improving vehicle access or providing visitor facilities at Bob‘s Hollow so as to retain, as far as
    possible, the low level of use.
    6. Providing infrastructure (e.g. landing areas at rock/cliff bases, gathering areas and take off ramps) and
    clearly defined access paths as needed to control erosion and compaction at authorised abseil sites.
    7. Providing improved vehicle access and parking (where possible) at Wilyabrup Cliffs and WI-16.
    8. Continuing to remove unauthorised abseil anchors and testing and tagging authorised glue in anchors
    as per Australian Standards.
    9. Using signage to alert visitors to the risk of cliff overhangs and rock fall close to climbing and abseil
    sites.
    10. Promoting the CAWA code of ethics.
    11. Monitoring high use abseil and rock climbing sites for environmental degradation and visitor safety,
    with a view to determining sustainable levels of use. Restrictions may be imposed, or recreational
    activities modified, if monitoring indicates

    The point of all this is – let us all be carefull we don’t stuff anything up. I suggest behaving.
    -no new routes at the northern part of bob’s.
    -no new routes anywhere with perma draws or slings
    -no new routes at wallcliffe
    -think hard about any new bolting at bob’s and willies and whether or not it really adds value to the area.

    Recent(ish) new spikey routes at Bob’s contribute negligibly to the area. Are they needed ?

    There are other lines (gaps) at Bob’s that could have a route, but don’t. These should be left alone too. e.g some with lots of stalactites.

    #151074

    Krish

    I proposed to start pulling info together for a new guide for the SW in 2015. So am interested to hear CAWAs view on the above thread:

    Is CAWA in discussion with DPaW about the new management plan?
    What are their thoughts on Bob’s suggestions?
    Noting that no further bolts were to be added at Moses Rocks, Willyabrup and Gracetown – what is CAWA’s position on this statement and have agreements with DPaW changed this stance since 2010?
    Has anyone kept tabs on whether the environmental and geotechnical assessment at Walcliffe or Cosy Corner have been undertaken?

    #151231

    Dena Rao
    Participant

    Hi Krish

    I’ve replied to your email. Chat to you soon.

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