New routes Gibraltar rock

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    Tim ball

    In late July, 2013, Tim ball and Joshua perlingadded a new two pitch route on the far left end of east face of gib rock. Start several hundred metres to the left of dinosaur, up hill almost to where the cliff turns to the south and low angled slabs lead up to the left end of the long horizontal caves. Wander up about 50m to a good dish down and left of an obvious dark water runnel. Rope up and look for a FH for the first runner. Straight up to a horizontal seam , some marginal small gear then right to runnel. Up this on left side past a few small cams then run it out to the large ledge that leads right.FH protects the second here, traverse right about 20m to a DBB(need hangers)in a cool scooped hanging garden. 55m grade 15. Head up and right past a FH and a medium cam to the steep arching corner, past several more FH and a smaller cam or nut to a steep exit and ledge with another small cam. Run it out on easier ground to a trad anchor on some big blocks on the summit. 40m grade 18. Descend off left to a large grass filled corner and a rusty single bolt rap. Classic climbing in a great position, High plains drifter, 100m grade 18.
    On the 17th and 18th of August, Tim ball and Andy mason added a two pitch route on the east face of gib rock. Crystal method 20, 55m. It is the line immediately right of spangelic upstarts on a reddish wall with an obvious right diagonal seam through a head wall. Even with several rain storms this route drys very quickly and was put up between showers! Start down and right from the belay at the start of spangelic upstarts and bogan villager at ground level between two obvious moss streaks. Climb an easy slab past three BR, need hangers. DBB,25m. Pitch two heads straight up past a thin seam with three or four micro nuts and cams. Continue up steeper terrain and the diagonal seam past six FH and a number seven rock or offset cam in that range. very cool and thought provoking moves through the head wall to a DBB. Classic pitch. Single 60m rope will suffice.
    New route on peak head. On the 7th of August, Tim ball and jodie hamilton made the first ascent of a classic slab/arête on the wall below the start of baylac and lucifers dream. Good anchor in a small horizontal on the big ledge, then rap straight down the arête at western end to a Hanging DBB on the edge of a large roof jutting out over the top of stirling terrace. Need hangers. Climb carefully out of belay up arête, crux is around the first bolt, then on past three more bolts back to ledge. GIB require large hangers to fit. Beware the bibbulman, 19, 25m. Great position with a feisty crux followed by easier climbing.

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