This topic contains 2 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by Neil 3 years, 10 months ago.
November 2, 2015 at 11:03 pm #155707
According to an Irish pun master, the gorge was formed during the “Crux”taceous period more than 100 million years ago. This 20m wide rock formation has resisted seasonal floods and still hides prehistoric cruxes! The Cruxtaceous Formation stands out along the river with a tubular runnel in the middle (top) and two very distinct corner/crack systems on both sides. It is level with the river and 100m downstream from the Awesome Foursome Wall.
Mantledactyl 20m 18** (Trad)
Up the steep left leaning crack for 8m then traverse right at horizontal break and finish straight up. Looks hard from a distance but the closer you get, the more foot rails appear. Brilliant climbing on bomber gear. BD C4 #4 useful.
FA: Sam Davies, Remi Vignals, Jean-Philippe Dumas – 19/09/2015
Theropods On Their Toes 20m 19* (Trad)
Start in the center of the rock formation. Keep the line dead vertical starting directly below the tubular runnel. Although climbed directly through the roof during the FA, there is a better/safer start 2m left to gain the top of the the first roof. A BD C4 #4 or #5, doubles of #2, #1, #.75 will help boost confidence.
FA: Remi Vignals, Shevaun Cooley – 28/08/2015
Bellysaurus 20m 23R** (Trad)
Start on the right of the rock formation. Excellent climbing up the short vertical crack/corner system, then traverse 2m left to a tight ledge. Up the arête to place some final gear and blast up right to an airy finish.
FA: Remi Vignals, Jean-Philippe Dumas, Sam Davies – 16/09/2015
Intimacy 17m 27** (Sport)
An entertaining roof in the similar vein of the two neighboring routes (Root Canal & Glass Slipper). Steep start to ledge then up left to roof and finish just left of the whale tail. No kidding: stick clip the first bolt. Use long quickdraw for the fifth bolt.
FA: Remi Vignals – 15/09/2015
The vertical wall located 50m downstream and opposite the Ravine.
Breathing Space 10m 18* (Trad)
Jump madly, swing quickly and climb finally! Start standing up on flat ledge across from the chasm on the right of the wall, jump to reach the jugs and fairly straight up to the top.
FA: Remi Vignals – 10/08/2015
MAD COW WALL
High Enough To Deck 28m 20* (Trad)
Offers good climbing and looks scary for a valid reason! Start 5m right of Mad Cows And Englishmen, moving 1m left at 6m (keeping a fair distance from left arête), then continue straight up on small edges. Risk of decking is real unless carrying a large cam (BD C4 #5). Doubles in mid-sizes come handy too. Some precarious rubble was cleaned in May 2014.
FA: Remi Vignals, Delphine Chabanne – 31/05/2014
Right Off Your Face 28m 16 (Trad)
A sensible option. Start 5m right of Mad Cows and Englishmen. Straight up for 6m then move a couple of metres right. Continue up faint crack and straight to the top.
FA: Brian Tan, Gesa Graser – 31/05/2014
TERRACES NEAR ANDROMEDA WALL
It’s All Mantle 15m 18 (Trad)
The left alternative start to Ditherington. Start on the first terrace above river on the left end of the small roof at 2m. Mantle up and right to gain ledge, proceed up to the roof and then move around to the right to join the easy corner of Ditherington.
FA: Brian Tan, Peter Zhang – 31/05/2015
Trogdor 20m 23** (Mixed)
The line to the right of The Cure which shares the same start and lower offs. Excellent face climbing using the white flake directly above crack (3 ring bolts and 1 fixed hanger). Seeping rarely stops but it shouldn’t stop you either!
FA: Jos Mulder – 27/09/2015
That’s Not The Spirit 9m 9 (Trad)
Great position, easy climbing to practice placing poor gear! Rappel down to the tip of the nose sticking out above water. Climb straight up featured slab wall.
FA: Jos Mulder, Delphine Chabanne, Remi Vignals – 28/09/2015November 3, 2015 at 11:52 pm #155721
Note that the line named Trogdor was bolted in 2008 but wasn’t sent at the time. We were given the go ahead to name it. Those who were involved in the bulk of the development haven’t heard of anyone venturing that way since…
Also, perhaps stay away from Cracken 22, the line just left of The Cure : it has bolting issues – half the glue seem to have vanished.November 10, 2015 at 9:45 am #155765
Nice one Remi and friends !