April 27, 2015 at 2:50 pm #152915
I am looking for some easy, well protected multi-pitch routes at Peak Charles to ease into the area. Any recommendations? Looking at thecrag.com.au (http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/peak-charles) and the guide, Office workers rule the world (13**), Last tango in Widgiemooltha (13**) and Conquistor (15**) look pretty good. Any comments?April 27, 2015 at 6:29 pm #152925
Office workers is great, think we started up badile and linked it up to OW after a pitch or two… Kweleman is very good too I reckon, might have bit better rock than conquistador..April 28, 2015 at 10:14 am #152968
Kweleman is a great choice, just make sure you traverse right far enough at the start of the second pitch. Good rock all the way, and nice and long.April 28, 2015 at 7:43 pm #152986
We tried conquistador last time and were blown away with the amount of loose rock on it .better bang for your buck around central gully and the main slabsApril 29, 2015 at 2:46 am #153010
Wouldn’t describe any of those three as well protected. For bolts best bet is Kweleman.
But Office Workers, with Badile start, and direct line through the overhang, is one of the best climbs in the state. Like most, there are long unprotected bits.
For short reasonably protected multi-pitch, try Garp, A nice climb with interesting route finding. Good for late afternoon. And in the same area Left Edge is one of the easiest climbs around, but a great warmup and abseil bolts top of the first, and best pitch. Sparticus tops out at the same rings and is a well protected 18. Take a hammer and chisel to chop the bolt that’s appeared next to the crack.May 11, 2015 at 7:47 pm #153857
We will be doing a trip to peak Charles this year. The bolt near the crack on Spartacus is history.May 11, 2015 at 8:50 pm #153860
If you are in the area and nobody has dealt with it yet, would you mind doing the same to the fixed hangers at the start of Juluka? I didn’t make it out there at Easter this year and am unlikely to be in the area any time soon.
ThanksMay 11, 2015 at 9:42 pm #153866
It depends a bit on your idea of well protected. Peak Charles is considered adventure climbing not just because of its remote location but because the routes are frequently run out. Route finding is part of the fun. So even the lower grades might not be quite what you are expecting or necessarily as easy as you might imagine, depending on your level of experience and the type of climbing you’ve been doing. I think it would be fair to say that you need to be comfortable with run outs to negotiate the multi pitch routes safely.
Also, on Kweleman, which I really like, the start of the 3rd pitch is much harder than a grade 16. It looked like something critical may have fallen off. There were also some random bolts that were not part of the route as far as we could tell.