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Do many people around Perth self belay using a solo top rope? (as described here: http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/rope-solo-system/ and here http://www.climbing.com/skill/solo-toproping/) And if so which areas and climbs around Perth are most suited? Any particularly popular spots?
I have done it a little bit in Perth, mainly in the quarries where it is easy to rap down to the anchors of the climbs and set up an anchor at the bolts.
I do it exactly the same as this .
I like the idea of using two different devices, which I don’t think Steph Davis does. I also prefer to use a 10mm dynamic rope. Some people prefer to use a static, but I found it hurt a bit if you fell on it.
A gri gri is also a good idea as a rap device, because you are on your own after all, and it is easy to screw up with an ATC. Those Black Diamond, anti-crossloading biners are also awesome, as it stops biners twisting around on your harness. I found it took three trips to get my system dialled.
Goodluck!
I use a Petzl BASIC and static rope. I use chest harness with seat harness to endsure the BASIC stays up at my chest all the time although it is attached to belay loop of seat harness. $1 shopping bag filled with rocks keeps the static taut. I never have to touch the rope while climbing.
Hey Chris I had a mate in Brisbane tear his rope down to the inner core using a self belay device on a dynamic rope there outer sheath are to soft It scared him so much he has only ever bouldered since .allways a loner I heard he gave himself a cold saltwater enema deepwater soloing in Tassie a year later..
Check out Petzl comparison of several techniques with advantages and inconvenients: http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Setting-up-a-self-belay-system-on-two-ropes-with-two-ascenders%C2%A0?ActivityName=Rock-climbing&l=INT
I prefer to use 2 ropes (one static, one dynamic) and one device on each.
Rope – see Unicore technology: http://www.unicore-process.com/us/index.html
The longer the route is, the more climbing you get… unfortunately, as Chris said, the quarries are probably your best bet. Stainless Steel Wall at Willyabrup (Margs) is great for it.
I had a go on a tree in the park and found that it works pretty well, no need to guide the rope even if you aren’t moving directly up but as Chris said cross-loading is an issue with regular biners and it is also a bit uncomfortable bouncing on static rope (though I was only on about 3m of rope). Remi’s tip about unicore is probably a good idea for regular climbing too. Thanks for the responses guys, I look forward to getting a bit of alone time.
Hey John boy…. that sounds terrifying!
Sorry I didn’t add a link I wanted to share… so here it is
https://camp4.wordpress.com/2013/03/20/going-solo-a-solo-toprope-setup/
I think the Petzl microcender is pretty unlikely to tear the sheath of a rope though. I still think it is a better option then getting haemorrhoid from falling on a static.
Maybe a middle ground between static and dynamic is using two dynamic ropes (or a 70m in half if possible) both attached to the chest sling (as primaries)? That way if you fell you would load both ropes and you would have half the extension of a dynamic rope (softer catch but you don’t fall too far)?
