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“Sorry, your belaying is innapropriate”. Whether the belayer has 1 day or 10+ years of climbing experience, just say it when you see it:
http://eveningsends.com/climbing/new-rules-belaying/– Don’t take your brake hand off the rope
– The rope should never sag down below the height of your knee
– Don’t talk to the belayer
– Don’t talk while belayingThere are some people around who refuse to learn the appropriate use of the Grigri. Gently share this link with them if saying it at the crag/gym is too confronting. If you start receiving a few of those links, learn and belay properly!
Just something to think about
fall (m) time (s) v (m/s) v (km/hr) Momentum (65 kg climber)
1.00 0.45 4.43 3.6 287.9140497
1.25 0.50 4.95 4.5 321.8976934
2.50 0.71 7.00 9.0 455.2320837
5.00 1.01 9.90 18 643.7953867
10.00 1.43 14.01 36 910.4641673
12.00 1.56 15.34 43.2 997.3635245
15.00 1.75 17.16 54 1115.08632
20.00 2.02 19.81 72 1287.590773
