Home Forums Climbing Talk tendonitis

This topic contains 3 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  Chris Dorrian 14 years, 11 months ago.

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  • #1620 Reply


    hey just wondring if any of you have had a bad/mild case of tendonitis and roughly how long it took to go away(and if it comes back quickly). sorry if you veiw this as a waste of a post.

    #1621 Reply


    Certainly not a waste of a post! I had what is most likely tendonitis in my wrist after repeated attempts at something difficult (and that caused me pain, I was stupid). Instead of resting I just kept climbing and eventually had to take four months off. It’s still not perfect, 18 months later.

    Best advice, REST IT NOW. Anti-inflammatories help too but if you medicate to push through pain the injury won’t heal.

    That’s my take on it anyway, others may have a different view!

    #1622 Reply


    I used to have finger and elbow tendonitis years ago but managed to get rid of both. Did a CAWA talk and wrote an article in W/Climber on the topic. From my personal experience, and reading, I would like to make these points (note: I’m not medically trained).

    1.) Chronic tendonitis comes from a combination of overuse, muscular imbalance, and personal susceptibility. Climbing is very specific to some muscles (e.g. inner forearm, finger flexors, front deltoid) and does little for opposing muscles ( outer forearm, finger extensors, rear deltoid). Read up on this (training books, mags) and fix the imbalance, else your problem will reoccur, even if it does heal for a while – i.e. fix the cause, not just symptoms.

    2.)Do not stop training completely while you are healing (except for first say 4 weeks). Then train at a low level, say 10% of what you were doing. If you stop completely for several months, the injury will heal “weakly”. Do not crimp – use the open hand grip.

    3.)First thing is to get rid of inflamation, do not climb with inflammation or it will get worse. Voltaren is an antiinflammatory. Ice packs help too.

    4. You can try strapping elbows/shoulders and taping fingers for prevention.

    5. So the steps are (a) get rid of inflammation, say 1 week (b) crosstrain your body to fix muscle imbalance, start with no weight, just isometric, gradually buid up, say 3 months, (c) start climbing in month 2 and gradually build intensity over say next 3-6 months, using tape/straps. (d) Take your local doctors advice with plenty of salt – they will tell you to do nothing – this will work for sure…until you start climbing again. Sports medicine has moved on a lot in last 20 years. Find a good physio – ask around. They are worth good money. (90% of physions are money wasters, in my experience).

    I hope this gets you thinking….


    #1623 Reply

    Chris Dorrian

    Darren, there is a pretty authoratative article in Rock magazine this month (no. 56) about the sorts of hand and finger injuries that climbers get.

    Have a look.


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