Trad rack for Wilyabrup and other South WA trad walls

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    We will be traveling from overseas to WA and hope to do some climbing in Wilyabrup and other southern WA spots (any suggestions for easy moderate trad climbing). What should we bring in terms of gear. Will a single rack do? Should we bring doubles of anything. If so, which sizes? Thank you for any advice,

    #188653 Reply


    Hi Pinar
    A single rack is fine for Wilyabrup and most other spots, but West Cape Howe (WCH) will need a double rack due to needing to set up anchors to rap into a lot of the climbs. Sections of The Gap are similar, as in walls directly over the ocean with no walk in access.
    A full range of cams is good, especially microcams. Bigger stuff comes in handy for WCH but generally up to a size 4 BD is sufficient for most places. A number 5 is good but not absolutely vital for the easier moderate grades- depends on how you view run outs in big cracks/chimneys. ‘Waterman’s Folly’ at Wilyabrup comes to mind here. Some stuff in ‘The Raft’area at WCH is like that too (‘Wish You Were Here’ grade 16 is one I’ve run out from lack of a size 5/6). The Raft area is one of the few areas you can walk into at WCH and has some good moderate stuff.
    Double ups in sizes BD 0.5 and 0.75 (purple and green?) and 2 (yellow) are nice to have.
    A full ranges of nuts is recommended too, including micronuts. If you are into hexes…hexes work well at Peak Head on ‘Baylac’ and some obscure stuff at The Gap/Amphitheatre, if you like lugging extra gear and stuffing about with them in placement but otherwise they’re best left for setting anchors and saving your cams and nuts for the climbs.

    ‘Sirius’grade 15ish at Wilyabrup is a must do, ‘Albatross’ at Peak Head is fun.
    Watch out for older climbs; the grading can sandbag you and sometimes the gear placements aren’t the best, as in a bit fiddly, or sparse, or the features are flary and rounded (Wilyabrup!).

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