“Transformer” at Peak Head

Home Forum First Ascents “Transformer” at Peak Head

This topic contains 6 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Adam 2 years, 5 months ago.

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    See route topo and description on link:


    …and the making of it (with extra scenes) here:





    Good climb!

    Protection is 80% ring bolts, but you’ll need some medium to largish cams as well. Also some slings or a tape ladder for the aid section.

    When Ross and I did it, it was howling a gale! I estimate the wind was 80 – 100 km an hour at times. I wasn’t scared of falling down – rather falling sideways!



    Phil exaggerates, in fact the south face is seldom subject to more than a soothing gentle breeze 🙂

    The gear is detailed in the route topo, no need to carry full rack on the hard pitches.



    Why is Ross’ smiling face 🙂 sideways?

    Because of the wind!

    Actually, it should have been the other way >->-(: as the wind was from the East.

    It is a great climb – but best to do it on a relativly calm day!



    Has anybody tried this one yet?



    Mario and I had a go over Xmas on an exceptionally calm day for Peak Head 😉

    I would recommend to take a BD Camelot #3 and a second BD Camelot #2 for pitch (i) to better protect both the undercling flake (past the 1st RB) and the 8-10m (not 6m) traverse under the overlap before reaching the 1st anchor. Both leader and particularly seconder risk a nasty pendulum on the easy-ish traverse past the last bolt of pitch (i). Ross suggested (afterward) to clip the first bolt of the pitch (ii) to redirect the belay for the seconder and reduce the length of the pendulum – do this too.

    Pick a warm day: the first 2 pitches are in the shade most of the day.

    All pitches offer some good fun at the grade. No doubt worth 3 stars. Brilliant!

    Thanks for the hard work of bolting it 🙂




    Sam and I climbed this on the weekend and both agreed it was an absolute classic! Each pitch is worth 3 stars at its respective grade in my opinion.

    Following on from Remi, some smaller cams don’t go astray on the first pitch and I thought a #3 cam was far preferable to a #2 on the second pitch.

    All in all a great route that I would highly recommend.

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