user beware

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This topic contains 7 replies, has 0 voices, and was last updated by  John boy 3 years, 12 months ago.

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  • #111445

    john boy

    while i was chopping the brown stain on the white sheet that is the west face of peak head aka the retro bolt of woo woo woo i found something very wrong.i took in some heavy gear but they came out easy too easy the belay bolts needed only half a turn then pulled out by hand.so i left the heavy gear up high and continued down.at the last one where tim ball’s line joins scottys about 8m up i pulled the bolt by a screwdriver under the hanger with the nut still tight a lead fall right next to that bolt may have had enough outward force to pull it.we think he may be using a drillbit too big for the dynabolts that should not be used on sea cliffs anyway.we think its great thats tims putting up new lines down here and this is not an attack on him we all make mistakes me included but you should know what your clipping to. i would feel like crap if someone was hurt or worse on his lines knowing what i know without posting anything.perhaps have your belayer give you slack near his bolts so the line of pull is down not out..

    #111459

    Neil

    Nice work. Did you patch the holes over?

    Sounds like 3/8″ expansions in a 10mm hole or too slow drilling and or too much reaming which can cause an oversize hole.

    Very concerning though. Better be extra carefull on the new routes at the p-rups done by the same guy.

    #111477

    George

    were they dyna bolts or through bolts?.

    Does anyone have a contact for Tim to discuss what may have been the issue? i would agree the main point is to make sure it doesnt happen again and check that this issue is not possible on other climbs he has put up.

    #111478

    Dena

    Hi Geroge, is your email address still the same? I have a hotmail address.

    #111479

    Dena

    Sorry George…I don’t touch type.

    #111480

    Tim ball

    I have never had a bolt pull before. The holes were exact and I used a ten mill bit too. I haven’t used those bolts since then . The new route on arĂȘte uses glue ins. All other bolts are ss trubolts in porongurups. I only supplied the hangers for the runnel of love and after what has happened will not use dynabolts again. Thanks for doing the dirty work.

    #111485

    kym

    Ar well sounds like you’re onto it now Tim good to hear.. Enjoyed a few of the lines at gib rock and hoping to get back soon although all this talk of bluff knoll is making me keen for old school glory.. beware the great southern sandbags

    #111531

    John boy

    I didn’t patch the holes we have tried many compounds for that from epoxy with drill bit dust to glaziers putty all fade after a couple of years and stick out like dogs balls.a small clean hole the same colour is hard to spot on that featured granite.I will give the bolts back to Ryan next time I see him the barcode stickers are intact still on the sleeve of the bolts so they couldn’t have been a slim fit and leave the hangers with Jim nevin at litte grove Tim knows him and can grab them there.I hope to clip them again somewhere.a nice gr18 slab please my toes hurt..

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