WCH New Routes

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This topic contains 4 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by  kym 3 years, 7 months ago.

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    Put these up yonks ago and was too lazy and distracted by tiny people to write them up. Would be awesome to see these and Ron and Jim’s new lines added to Ross’s miniguide at some stage down the track! 😉

    Most are in the legendary First Route Gully and offer a good variety of climbing with the added bonus of being sheltered from southerly winds and large swells..

    Fishbone Arete. 15m gr18*
    Located on the south facing wall of the huge block at the top of First Route Gully. Approach by abseil from the two bolts at the top (hangers required). Belay in the gully at the base of the short wide crack. Up this, then climb the superb clean slab and arĂȘte passing 3 bolts (hangers required) with small to medium cams in the horizontal breaks.
    K. Hartley, M. Rosser. Feb. 11

    The Truth. 15m gr17*
    The right trending hand crack opposite FA finishing at a lower-off.
    K. Hartley. J. O Herlihy Feb 12.

    Up for Grabs. 15m gr18/19? (open project)
    Just right of TT is a great steep face climb that ends at the same lower-off. We top roped it the day we bolted it but never got back to tick it. Now we are busy elsewhere and would be happy to see someone else get the FA. It takes some small cams and has three bolts (hangers required) if I remember correctly. Good luck!

    King For A Day. 20m gr23**
    Sustained climbing up the obvious steep north facing wall and arĂȘte of the huge block. Approach via a short abseil from the two hex bolts above the wide corner crack.. Pre-place the first draw and clip your lead rope to it on abseil. Up the offwidth to the large horizontal break. Traverse right to the undercling, then up to a good edge near the second bolt. Continue traversing right (crux) then head up the face trending right to the arĂȘte and get a bit of a rest. Continue up the face and arĂȘte passing a couple more bolts to the victory jug. 6 bolts (hangers required, sorry!)
    K. Hartley, Feb 12.

    Me And The Devil. 12m gr19
    Start at the base of the thin crack and arĂȘte left of KFAD on the short west facing wall. Up the crack that takes a small cam to a stance on the small boulder. Climb the arĂȘte passing two bolts (hangers required).
    K. Hartley. J. O Herlihy, Feb 12.

    Go For It. 12m gr? (open project)
    Clip the high bolt just right of MATD and dyno from the crescent shaped crimp to the horizontal crack. Traverse left and finish up the arĂȘte. Good luck!

    The Whore Of Babylon. 30m gr14*
    Access via abseil from the two ring bolts located just below the top of the gully on the north side
    Nice climbing starting next to the cairn halfway down the gully to the right of a bolt. Up the slab through horizontal cracks and flakes before moving towards the arĂȘte as it steepens near the top. 3 bolts (hangers required) and natural protection. Finish at the abseil anchor.
    J. O Herlihy, K. Hartley. Feb 12.

    Orion’s Belt. 70m gr14**
    Abseil further down the gully trending over to the northern side passing the base of Easy Day For The Gentlemen to a square cut ledge to belay on medium to large cams.
    Pitch 1, Gr 13, 10m
    Step across to the wall and traverse left on the two large horizontal cracks to a double bolt belay in a fantastic position on the small triangular platform capped by a roof on the arĂȘte.
    Pitch 2, Gr 14, 30m
    Traverse right a couple of metres from the belay then straight up the middle of the wall past a bolt (hanger required) and into the fingercrack. Continue up and right to belay on a small ledge just left of the chimney.
    Pitch 3, Gr 12, 30m
    Either meander up the wall above (Gr12) or better, climb up and right from the belay a few metres then step across the chimney and climb the upper section of Easy Day. Finish at the eyebolts.
    J. O Herlihy K. Hartley Feb 12

    Crown Of Thorns. 25m gr17*
    Takes the line up the west facing wall on the buttress to the left of Needles Aye.
    Start just left of the large flake and trend up and slightly left past three ring bolts. Through the overlap and up the middle of the slab passing some more bolts and various natural protection to finish at eyebolts.
    J. O Herlihy, K. Hartley. Feb. 11

    Black Magic. 15m gr17*
    Nice climbing and great rock on the north facing wall with the obvious diagonal crack, (below Body Builder). You can get to the start by abseiling from the top of WOB (north side of gully) then trending south to a directional bolt (american hanger) and down to the chains on the spacious ledge. Step across the crevasse onto the middle of the wall and a bolt. Head up and slightly left past another two bolts toward the diagonal crack, along this then straight through the overlap past two more bolts to finish at the DBB (Hangers required). Take small to medium cams.
    J. O Herlihy, K Hartley. Feb 12.

    Star A.D. 35m gr19**
    Starts down near Jump for Joy and Tripping Upstairs. Can be reached from the chains on the ledge where BM starts with an extra 15m or so of static or alternatively use your lead rope.
    An excellent varied line. Climb the superb face on the clean west facing wall on edges and flakes past the horizontal cracks until a couple of metres below the roof. Traverse right and step over the void at the layback crack. Up this, then onto the arĂȘte and face on good holds to the top. Bridge the final slab and finish at the DBB. 6 bolts (hangers required) plus small cams and wires.
    K. Hartley. J. O Herlihy. Feb 12.

    Cosmic Debris. 50m gr15*
    Good exposed climbing on a nice clean wall. Excellent rock, well protected and enjoyable at the grade.
    Abseil 50m from the top of the Sunshine Superman wall just north of The Supergroove at the 2 hex bolts on the boulder that caps the wall. Looking down from the top of the overhang you will see a large flake system. When you pass an eyebolt after 30m or so trend north slightly to the staircase ledges and belay on large cams.
    Pitch 1, 30m. Up the blocky crack system and past a series of horizontal breaks to a curving fingercrack and bolt (crux). Belay just after this on the ledge to the right.
    Pitch 2, 20m. Step left from the belay and head straight up the wall on thin protection to finish directly through the small roof.
    J. O Herlihy, K. Hartley, M. Rosser. Feb. 11

    There may have been others Johnboy? But that’s all I could find among my ascent notes..


    #154226 Reply

    John boy

    That’s the stuff brother.let them shine.there was tourettes arĂȘte start as needles eye staying out of the crack then head up left arĂȘte all on natural gear to belay bolts on crown of thorns 40m gr14.

    #155356 Reply

    John boy

    And.carrots are for casseroles gr15 18m.10m left of crown of thorns stand on large boulder then fire up arĂȘte 3 bolts and small to med gear to dbl bolt belay.enjoy

    #155387 Reply


    Hi Kym if you have any pics with plotted dotted lines then send them to me on ross dot weiter at yaho dot com and I will update miniguide pronto. Ross

    #155396 Reply


    Cheers Ross, unfortunately most of my climbing pics are long gone since crack heads recently stole my computer. I’m sure John still has a few tho. When I eventually get back down south I will try and get more pictures, sort out the contrived bits and fix up a few descriptions..

    Thanks again

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