This topic contains 15 replies, has 1 voice, and was last updated by kym 2 years, 10 months ago.
October 3, 2015 at 11:27 am #155414
For anyone interested. I recently rebolted “Twitch to Glory” on claws wall,
and Gay Blade and Tights, Camera, Action. Both in Gay Blade area.
They have been rebolted with Hilti re 500. 316 bolts and petzl Coeur bolt plate,
which is supposed to be 316 SS also.
EnjoyOctober 3, 2015 at 2:48 pm #155416
Nice one!October 4, 2015 at 7:25 pm #155423
Oh yeh n I put 2 fixe ring bolts at the top of Gay Blade so you don’t have to bother with the 2nd pitch. Just lower off n clean it if you like. Same with Twitch to Glory, it’s a choss pile above Claws wall anyway so might be saving a few belayers heads that way. Hope there’s no objections to these additions.October 4, 2015 at 8:49 pm #155425
Awesome stuff Gideon great to see you pushin the upper grades.I still have your chopped lead rope from the base of claws wall in case you need a tow rope for the ever deteriorating track in.October 5, 2015 at 9:03 am #155432
woohooo 🙂 summer projects!October 9, 2015 at 10:09 am #155473
Cheers John boy. That track is annoyingly rough thanks to the idiots that tear it up, but I think I’d be doing something seriously wrong to get bogged on it still. Your welcome to use it as a snatchy for the lil Suzuki, be perfect for that 🙂October 16, 2015 at 2:31 pm #155508
I’m curious if Gay Blade and Twitch to glory have ever been repeated? I’ve done gay blade clean on TR but twitch to glory still had me buggered last time I tried it. Anyone else out there had a go at em recently?October 26, 2015 at 8:56 am #155645
Logan and Emil might have tried Gay Blade 10 years ago. Can’t remember what the outcome was as that was on a trip when they onsighted Tights, Camera, Action (alternating lead) so were climbing well, but I must have disappeared to climb something else when they were trying it. I vaguely remember them saying something about the chipped hold. Anyway, I have some fantastic pictures of the TCA ascent as I was coming down the Vulture St wall at the time.
Not sure about Twitch to Glory. I think I tried it in 07, and it left me as you described. BTW, guidebook says ‘well spaced and hard to clip bolts’, so did you adjust the placements? I would like to try it again some time and obviously you can just climb Elegantly Wasted and rap down and place long draws, but was just wondering if I could try going ground up now. I find rebolting is so much harder than new routes because you lament over things like this. Anyway, good luck on the RP for both. Have you done Corruption in Higher Places? Thanks for the rebolting! KateOctober 31, 2015 at 4:03 pm #155687
Hi Kate, no I haven’t tried corruption in higher places. I’ve looked at it in the guidebook with interest though so maybe one day. As for twitch to glory I left most bolt placements the same but I think I added 2 bolts at the bottom, otherwise a fall before the first bolt would be very bad and I think a fall between 1st and 2nd bolts looked real bad too so I added one in there. After that it’s the same as mike bolted it. Nice and spread out.November 2, 2015 at 8:55 am #155689
Does it require gear still? Sounds exciting 🙂November 2, 2015 at 9:31 am #155690
You’ll be doing well to find any gear on Twitch to Glory, as for Gay Blade and Tights Camera Action, they both require a few bits of gear. I haven’t placed extra bolts if natural pro can be used and have left most bolt placements as the first ascent was done. The first bolt on twitch to glory was about 5m above a bad landing so I only adjusted the starting bolts only.November 3, 2015 at 10:15 am #155708
Great. Awesome stuff! Thanks a lot for your work.November 3, 2015 at 10:45 am #155709
No worries enjoyNovember 4, 2015 at 9:42 am #155722
Hey mate hope all is well, nice work with the new hardware, have you thought of planar craving and another line I saw near the carpark called missing time? could do with new bolts.. John and I thought about adding a lower-off on the ledge above tombstone to avoid the pitch of choss above.. I got a few bits of stainless you can use, will bring down next visit.. All the best.November 4, 2015 at 9:16 pm #155725
Hey Kym, I’m well but unfortunately the building industry has been too busy for me to do anything but work, which is normal this time of year. It would defiently be good to see some new bolts on planar craving. Never noticed “missing time” but just had a look in the guidebook then. I’ll have to throw a rope down it next time I can get out. Good idea putting a lower of to avoid the choss I rekon, west cape is great but so much loose crap on some of the top sections makes things a bit dangerous sometimes. Hopefully I can fit in some climbing next time your down. Johns got my number if you don’t. I don’t think I’ll get a chance to do anymore bolting till after Christmas at least but if you want to borrow the hilti glue gun go for it, or the drill. Be good to get out for a climb with you again sometime. CheersNovember 8, 2015 at 5:14 pm #155743
Sounds good mate cheers will be in touch.