Forum Replies Created
I will try Sylvia again soon. I climbed it around 4 months ago and agree it could have lost a hold – I pulled off a big hold when I was last on it.
I removed the loose block on Star Wars that you mentioned – it came off with little effort, though the climb is little changed and still a terrific line. I also checked the pegs. The middle peg needs to be replaced with a bolt immediately. It was rusty and a bit loose. Not replacing a peg for ethical reasons is not, in my opinion, worth the risk.
I looked over towards Vader but could not see the loose block – unless the whole corner is loose – but it has always been like that.
With regard grading of the Shield I will leave what I have already said above and add one more point. I would not compare The Shield to Hang Ten in determining grade. There are few 24s in the quarry to draw a comparison.
However, The Shield compares well with Star Wars 24 and outside the quarry with Karma 24. It is very similar with these climbs in that it is not the technical difficulty of any one move alone that has determined the grade, the number and consistency is also a part.
With regard the grades at Boya. I have not organised the consultative process that will provided consensus grades. However, I will ask some climbers to check the grades with me before publishing the Boya update. We will be printing an update for the Boya Quarry soon – we have new lines at Boya and one of Jims is particularly good. As always Jon your input will be valued.
What influenced my view on the grades of Sylvia & Shield of Achilles was comparing them to other climbs of similar grades. I climbed Sylvia recently after not trying it for over 5 years and found it difficult, at least as hard as the other 22s in the quarry -The Force, Vader, Urban Ethics and Land of the Orange Druggie. The bottom crux seemed desperate – has a hold broken? A few others who have tried it recently also agree that 22 seems appropriate.
As for The Shield, I think it is not as difficult as Hang Ten (24) and I thought the crux on your 23 at Boya Quarry was harder. I also think the crux on Quarryman (22) at Stathams is as hard as anything on The Shield. Also, one of those who have led The Shield and Sylvia cleanly said that he thought there was not 3 grades difference between the climbs.
My suggested changes are merely an attempt to get consistency amongst the grades of climbs. I’ll guess we’ll see if anyone else has any comments.
With regards to the grades of both Sylvia and the Shield Achilles. I believe that the Shield is a fair 24. It was the opinion of 5 climbers that the Shield was fairly graded at 24. The climb was not graded until I had feedback from a number of people who had attempted the line cold. That is on sight and placing all their own gear. Your view is probably influenced by the fact that you did not attempt an on sight having watched 2 people do the route and that all your gear was pre placed.
I also believe that Sylvia is a 21. I remember when Sylvia was first climbed and graded. Prior to grading the first ascender, Gary Matier, encouraged a number of people to climb the line (on sight, leading and placing gear) and give feedback. I climbed the line with Garry. I am quite sure that Peter McKenzie and Ron & Ronald Master also were approached. After this consultative process the climb was graded at 21. Again the weight of opinion seems to rest with the original grade.
As far as I know this is the most current guidebook for the Margaret Rv region.
If you want lots of sports routes with lower offs go to Bob’s Hollow! The guide does not cover this area too well as there are many more climbes put up since 1996.
Willyabrup is your best bet – heaps of single pitch climbs with good access at the top. Also try Moses Rocks and Gracetown. You may need some slings and natural gear for anchors. There are quite a few abseiling anchor bolts at Willy’s that can also be used.
Hi matt – no the crux has always been the blank and precarious section near the top, just where the wall goes from vertical to slab. I do remember some pretty dodgy flakes down low. I guess this climb will just keep on getting harder….
I bolted all these climbs (left and right of Hipster crack) and added anchor on Morning Glory. They are safe, the glue is Hilti HIT RE500 – there is no stronger glue on the market. See the new (March 2003) issue of Western Climber for route descriptions. Good climbing.
Neil, in answer to your query about the bolting at Wilyabrup – yes CAWA climbers are aware of the bolts and rope “hand rails” scattered around the place. I will raise your comment at the next committee meeting.
CAWA is not some mythical monster Neil, it’s people. You don’t like it, what are YOU going to do about it, eh ?
I dunno. I can think of a few things, none of which are socially acceptable. Raising awareness about the issue is a start though…
What no invite? What are you up to over the next few weeks?
Thanks for your support.
In response to your suggestions:
I’ll try to incorporate as many good ideas as possible. Pictures on messages could be a possibility, but no plans just yet.
>… mechanism is in place to ensure that the web site is an active archive for all new climbs in WA…
Although i haven’t got a complete strategy yet for dealing with new climbs I am planning for it and should have this sorted out within six months.
We can see how the message board goes for climbers adding new routes. Currently there will be a manual process of publishing these in Western Climber and adding them to the normal climbs listed on this site.
But i also want to be able to alert climbers to new climbs so i’m thinking of a way to list new or recent climbs automatically.
It will develop.
Anybody else have input to this?…