Long weekend at Kalbarri, 19-22 April 2019

Dear members,

The long awaited Kalbarri trip is just around the corner: Friday, 19th to Monday, 22nd April 2019.

Remi on Keith Goes Blank 15***

Sheer sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River provide trad, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing opportunities. Roughly 6.5 hour drive north of Perth, Kalbarri gorge is well worth the trip. Kalbarri National Park provides opportunities for trad leading in the middle and upper grades and sport climbing at a high level. You couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting. If you haven’t been before, Kalbarri gorge is truly spectacular and just a great spot to spend a weekend. Winter is prime climbing time in the gorge with excellent friction, pleasant temperatures and no flies.

Though the areas around the Z Bend tend to attract most climbers, there is some moderate trad climbing out at Hawk’s Head. Four Ways is also another great alternative if you want to avoid the crowd, whilst the remote Wonderwall offers some deep water soloing fun and is a pleasant day hike.

We would love to see you all there. We also need to make sure that everyone is clear about what to expect of the area. Kalbarri is not an ideal venue for beginners, unless they are accompanied by a suitably experienced climber. This is because access to routes will usually require lead climbing and the ability to set up top ropes is very limited. The climbing also tends to be moderate to very hard.

Guides
The main guides to the area are Northern Rock and West Australian Rock. These will give you a good idea of the climbing on offer. More routes have been posted on the forum since the above publications, here are some of them:
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-couple-of-new-kalbarri-routes/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-long-natural-line/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-new-route-in-the-pit/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-in-kalbarri/
https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-crack-climbs-at-kalbarri/

Access
From Perth, head north to Geraldton, Northampton and Kalbarri. The road out to the Z Bend is now sealed and accessible by 2WD.

Weather
Check the weather forecast to choose your clothing appropriately: if the forecast announces less than 15 degrees and windy, bring that down jacket as it can be very cold in the gorge. Sunscreen can be life saver as well if you’re planning to climb multi-pitches.

Accommodation
We have unpowered camping sites provisionally booked at Kalbarri Z-bend car park.  Please let us know numbers as soon as possible if you plan to attend, thus we can ensure that we have enough space to accommodate everybody.

Registering Your Interest Now
Please register by completing the online form ASAP and by 10:00 am Wednesday, 17th April. We will then send confirmation with further details.

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Joining online is easy, through the link on the CAWA home page.

If you have any questions, please email both Elinor  Fleming (elinorf@climberswa.asn.au) who will be in Kalbarri to coordinate the trip and me (dirkk@climberswa.asn.au) who is helping with the preparation ahead of the long weekend.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Committee member and VP

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Access Update, 5 February 2019

On 12 December 2018, the Shire of Augusta Margaret River (“the Shire”) resolved to chop the bolts at Wallcliffe and to ban public access.

Therefore, the Shire currently maintains that climbing at Wallcliffe is banned.

The Shire Rangers are authorised to issue infringement notices and to confiscate climbing equipment in the event that climbers are found climbing at the crag.

The result of this decision is that we have in WA regrettably lost an iconic and irreplaceable crag in circumstances where the amount of climbing in WA is already limited.  This is a wakeup call to the WA climbing community.

The minutes of the ordinary council meeting of 12 December 2018 were published on 18 December 2018 and a copy can be downloaded from the following link:

Minute of ordinary council meeting of 12 December 2018

A full transcript of the deputation made on behalf of CAWA is below.

The behaviours that the Shire used to support their actions were as follows:

  1. Leaving chalk on the cliff.
  2. Pruning of trees at the waters edge.
  3. Defecation in caves.
  4. Playing of loud music in caves.
  5. Graffiti and vandalism.
  6. Entering the caves.
  7. Intentional damage to vegetation.
  8. Damage to cliffs from bolting.

Climbing outdoors is not a right but essentially a privilege that can be lost at any moment at any crag.

There are currently situations where crags are at risk of being lost in Australia and overseas.  They are having some serious issues in the Grampians.  According to the Access Fund US, 1 in 5 climbing areas in the US is threatened.

It is up to every climber take all reasonable steps to ensure that their conduct outdoors is such that the risk of losing a crag, especially when the number of climbers heading outdoors is steadily increasing with the popularity of climbing set to skyrocket in the next few years.

Climbers heading outdoors should be familiar with and adhere to the following:

CAWA has established an Access Subcommittee to tackle future access issues in WA.

If you have any questions about access you can e-mail CAWA directly access@climberswa.asn.au or cawa@climberswa.asn.au or e-mail any of the CAWA Committee Members or message via the CAWA Facebook Page.

Climb safely and responsibly,

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Vice President

 

Deputation Transcript of 12 December 2018

  1. CAWA acknowledges the traditional owners of the Land (the Wardandi people) and would like to pay respects to the Elders past and present.
  2. Firstly, CAWA respectfully urges the Council not to “chop the bolts”:
    • Climbing has taken place at Wallcliffe for nigh 30 years, most routes being set in the early 90s. There is no urgency, as they don’t affect the Council’s plans for a public viewing platform.
    • Wallcliffe is a key location for climbing in WA. There is only one other area of similar character of limestone climbing, where climbing is permitted by management plan.  Chopping the bolts will forever close an iconic chapter of climbing history in WA.
    • The bolts are required to climb safely at Wallcliffe, as they are needed to protect the climber from falls.
    • The small heads of the climbing bolts that protrude from the cliff, would not be visible from the platform proposed. They are visible only on close inspection.
    • The Golder geological study and the Goode cultural study did not recommend removal. There is no report that recommends the removal or which finds that removal conflicts Shire’s plans.
    • The anecdotal evidence does not support removal:
      • Pruning of trees at the waters edge. Not climbing related. 
      • Defecation in caves. Not climbing related.
      • Playing of loud music in caves. Not climbing related. 
      • Graffiti and vandalism. It is not part of the culture of climbing.  There are graffiti artists that pride themselves on putting graffiti in high places.
      • The only evidence of people entering the caves are permit holders. Not climbers. 
      • Intentional damage to vegetation. Some silly do-gooder trimmed the existing access path.  Not climbing related.
      • All of the above are addressed in the draft management plan CAWA has provided to Council and the traditional owners. No response has been received from the Council to date. The traditional owners have indicated that they are considering the draft management plan.
    • The investigations of Council to date are inconclusive as to the person(s) responsible for environmental damage at Walcliffe, noting the Cape to Cape Track runs adjacent and the area is reasonably popular with tourists.
    • In WA no other open access climbing area has a problem with bolts (e.g. Churchmans Brook, Kalbarri, Willyabrup, Albany, West Cape Howe, Bluff Knoll and Porongurup). At Albany, Porongrup and Bluff Know there is a viewing platforms.  So why chop the bolts?
    • The bolts cannot be removed, as that would cause more damage to the cliff. The small protruding head of the bolts must be carefully ground off, some damage to the cliff is likely.
    • Delaying a decision to chop the bolts will permit a period of consultation and not prevent the Shire from proceeding with its proposed plans.
  3. Secondly, CAWA respectfully urges the Council not to “ban all access”, as the following concerns have not been addressed:
    • A ban on access would be invalid being inconsistent with the Management Order to manage the Crown Land for the purposes of “Recreation”. A ban on access will prevent recreation including climbing.  Shire’s attorneys have not addressed this issue.
    • Nor have the Shire’s attorneys properly addressed the legal issues raised by CAWA regarding the validity of the 2013 Determination concerning climbing or the related Determination proposed to be made today.
    • The Council should defer any decision on the proposed Determination pending the resolution of these serious legal issues.
    • Further, a ban on access is not supported by expert or anecdotal evidence. All previous reports have recommended restricted access.
    • With respect, Shire has not properly considered other options involving restricted access such as a management plan, codes of conduct, permits, licenses, booking systems or further education or signage.
    • Council proposes to move from completely free public access to a complete ban without proper consideration of options in between.
    • The Standing Committee overturned similar local laws in the 1990s and recommended that the Shire consult with CAWA and consider a management plan. That recommendation has not been followed and history is repeating itself.
    • A number of petitions protesting against the chopping of the bolts and banning access have been signed by over 300 people and presented.
    • A ban on public access whilst permitting access by commercial enterprises sends the wrong message.
    • Allowing commercial interests to profit from visiting Walcliffe is also inconsistent with the Shire’s apparent desire to rigidly protect the cultural significance of Walcliffe.
    • Ironically one of the current permit holders facilitates 3,000 people per annum visiting the site. Climbers would probably number no more than 200 per annum.
    • CAWA urges the Council to defer making the proposed Determination today, until outstanding legal issues have been resolved, and proper consultation has occurred regarding public recreational (including climbing) access in accordance with the purposes of the Reserve.
    • CAWA is willing to work collaboratively with the Shire and the traditional owners to find an acceptable compromise.
  4. Thank you madam President for the opportunity to speak here today. I am now open to any questions.

No rock climbing sign.

 

How to Save Wallcliffe

The Shire of Augusta Margaret River has now published the Agenda for the Council Meeting to be held on 12 December 2018.

At the Council Meeting, the Shire proposes to:

  1. Ban all access to Wallcliffe not just climbing.
  2. Chop off all climbing bolts at Wallcliffe.

If you want to save Wallcliffe, then follow the steps provided below under the heading “How to Save Wallcliffe“.  It’s simple.

If you are not sure what has been happening to date, then search our previous posts about Wallcliffe in the search bar.

We have updated recent correspondences and documents in the Public Document Folder.  A good summary of the situation is contained in the CAWA Submissions re Local Law Determination in Relation to Wallcliffe Cliffs and River.

How to Save Wallcliffe

  1. Share this post with as many people as you can by social media. That’s simple.
  2. If you are an elector and resident of the Shire, then download and complete a Petition to Save Wallcliffe.   The petition is in Word Format so you can amend it. If you have to amend the petition, please use respectful language. If you started the petition, then you must insert your full name, address and e-mail in the section marked “********”.  Print a whole bunch of the petitions.  Hit the streets, knock on doors, hold events and get as many other electors and residents of the shire to sign your petition.  The petitioners must complete their details and indicate that they “Agree”. Very important, if you get more than 3 petitioners, then they must sign a separate form, as the signatures must be on the same form with all the requests numbered 1 to 10. The more supporters that you can get to sign your petition the better chance you have of success. Then e-mail all your petitions to the President and Councillors via the e-mails addresses shown on the petition. Write something in the cover e-mail like “Dear Councillors, I refer to the agenda for the Ordinary Council Meeting on 12 December 2018 and I attach my petition which has [insert] number of supporters.” You must get these petitions in urgently. As time is running out. Then try to telephone Your Councillors and get their support. If you have any questions about your petition, then e-mail dirkk@climberswa.asn.au.
  3. If you are an elector and resident of the Shire, then attend the Ordinary Council Meeting on 12 December 2018.
  4. If you are not an elector or resident of the Shire, then contact your family and friends who are electors or residents and get on to them to create download and complete a Petition to Save Wallcliffe. Get them to follow the instructions above.
  5. If you are not an elector or resident of the Shire, then down load and complete both a Petition to Save Wallcliffe to the Legislative Council and a Petition to Save Wallcliffe to the Legislative Assembly. The petitions are Word Format so you can amend them. If you have to amend the petitions, please use respectful language. If you started the petition, then must insert your full name, address and e-mail in the section indicated.  Print a whole bunch of the petitions.  Get as many other people to sign your petition. Only original signatures are permitted. The petitioners must complete their details. Very important, if you get too many petitioners that fit on the form, then they must sign a separate form, as the signatures must be on the same form as the request. The more supporters that you can get to sign your petition the better chance you have of success. Then you must contact your local member and telephone them to arrange to submit your petition. Find your local member by using the “find your member” on the WA Parliament Website. E-mail a copy of your petitions to the Councillors of the Shire with a courteous e-mail. You must get these petitions in urgently. As time is running out. If you have any questions about your petition, then e-mail dirkk@climberswa.asn.au.

If you have any other ideas and thoughts, then e-mail us them to us at cawa@climbers.wa.asn.au.

Climb safe!

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Vice President

Wallcliffe Update – Call to Action

The Shire of Augusta Margaret River (“the Shire“) proposes to:

  1. Ban all access to Wallcliffe not just climbing.
  2. Chop off all climbing bolts at Wallcliffe.

The Council Meeting to vote is to be held on 12 December 2018. There is no time to lose!

The most relevant documents are:

  1. The Ordinary Council Minutes of 28 March 2018 (especially pages 63 to 74).
  2. The Public Notice published on 30 May 2018.
  3. The draft determination.
  4. The Local Government Property Local Law 2013 (see clause 2.2 of Schedule 2).

The above documents can be accessed at the following link:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1EX6dndNNlch_AHbMG551boD9gKc4Kd8D?usp=sharing

Since 2012 Wallcliffe has been a registered heritage site under the Aboriginal Heritage Act.  CAWA acknowledges the Traditional Owners of the Land (The Noongar-boodja people) and would like to pay respects to the Elders thereof past and present. CAWA is committed to the protection and conservation of Wallcliffe for future generations. CAWA wants to ensure that Wallcliffe is preserved and undamaged.

If you weren’t aware, climbing at Wallcliffe has already been banned by the Shire. This happened in 2013 and went under the radar.

We understand that the period of making written submissions to the Shire has expired.

As climbers, we have an obligation to protect Wallcliffe for future generations.

You will see in the Council Minutes that as follows:

  1. The cliff has not been shown to structurally unsound. This is notwithstanding climbing of more than 30 years.
  2. The activities complained of are not climbing related such as damage to the foreshore, loud noise, fires, vandalism and graffiti. CAWA does not condone this behavior and fully support steps by the Shire to curtail this behavior. CAWA would seek to work with the Shire and other stakeholders to eradicate this sort of thing.
  3. Climbing itself has not been proven by any study to damage or harm the cliff. There is no study of the impact of climbing on the cliff. CAWA supports the assessment of the impact of climbing on the area so that an accurate assessment of the impact of climbing may be made.
  4. Damage to the foreshore area by commercial enterprises that are permit holders versus infrequent use by climbers has not been assessed. CAWA supports the collection of further data so that an accurate assessment can be made.
  5. Other options do not appear to have been substantially explored.  CAWA submits that there are a range of other options available as opposed to a blanket ban on access and climbing.
  6. Associations such as CAWA are not included as permissible permit holders versus commercial enterprises.  CAWA supports the Shire and all stakeholders working together to ensure that the interests of all parties are promoted and protected not to the exclusion of any person or body whose genuine primary goal is above all the protection and promotion of Wallcliffe.
  7. That CAWA and climbers have an interest in protecting Wallcliffe has not been acknowledged.

This is a big and complex undertaking beyond the skills and experience of any of the current committee members.

So CAWA needs you. We hope to prevent chopping of the bolts at Wallcliffe and we want climbing re-instated as an authorized activity at Wallcliffe.

We are looking for experienced and motivated legal eagles and activists to represent CAWA and the WA climbing community, in dealing with this issue.

Contact CAWA urgently, preferably straightaway and no later than close of business on Thursday, 29 November 2018, as we need to action this.

Save Climbing at Wallcliffe!

Gareth Wood

CAWA President

garethw@climberswa.asn.au

cawa@climberswa.asn.au

dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Boya Quarry Crash, Wednesday, 17 October 2018

Spring is in full swing and the rock is, now and then, dry so let’s meet up and climb outdoors. This time we should try rarely visited Boya Quarry East Side. There is enough to keep us busy for a few hours with grades from 16 to 23 on sport and some easier trad lines as well.

I’ll be in from 5 to 9pm and happy to set up top ropes if needed. Little refreshment provided for those who RSVP before midday on Wednesday.

What to bring:
Head torch, helmet definitely required (I have a few spare if u need) and long pants and sleeves highly recommended.

Location:
https://maps.google.com/?cid=11875254699555448718

See you there,

Jiri Stastny

CAWA Committee

Western Climber, Issue No 24 – Winter 2018

Cover page from Western-Climber-024-Winter-2018

Dear member,

Just letting you know that the latest edition of Western Climber is now available to download.

You can download the PDF using the following link:

Download

Or go to the Publications Page  of the CAWA website.

Hope you enjoy!

Just a reminder the Western Climber is YOUR voice!  So please send us anything of interest including news, thoughts, photos, report and concerns at cawa@climberswa.asn.au.

Happy climbing,

Dirk Klicker
CAWA Vice President
E_MAIL: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Long weekend at Kalbarri, 21-24 September 2018

Dear members,

The long awaited Kalbarri trip is just around the corner: Friday, 21st to Monday, 24th September 2018.

 

Remi on Keith Goes Blank 15***

Sheer sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River provide trad, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing opportunities. Roughly 6.5 hour drive north of Perth, Kalbarri gorge is well worth the trip. Kalbarri National Park provides opportunities for trad leading in the middle and upper grades and sport climbing at a high level. You couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting. If you haven’t been before, Kalbarri gorge is truly spectacular and just a great spot to spend a weekend. Winter is prime climbing time in the gorge with excellent friction, pleasant temperatures and no flies.

Though the areas around the Z Bend tend to attract most climbers, there is some moderate trad climbing out at Hawk’s Head. Four Ways is also another great alternative if you want to avoid the crowd, whilst the remote Wonderwall offers some deep water soloing fun and is a pleasant day hike.

We would love to see you all there. We also need to make sure that everyone is clear about what to expect of the area. Kalbarri is not an ideal venue for beginners, unless they are accompanied by a suitably experienced climber. This is because access to routes will usually require lead climbing and the ability to set up top ropes is very limited. The climbing also tends to be moderate to very hard.

Guides
The main guides to the area are Northern Rock and West Australian Rock. These will give you a good idea of the climbing on offer. More routes have been posted on the forum since the above publications, here are some of them:
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-couple-of-new-kalbarri-routes/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-long-natural-line/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-new-route-in-the-pit/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-in-kalbarri/
https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-crack-climbs-at-kalbarri/

Access
From Perth, head north to Geraldton, Northampton and Kalbarri. The road out to the Z Bend is now sealed and accessible by 2WD.

Weather
Check the weather forecast to choose your clothing appropriately: if the forecast announces less than 15 degrees and windy, bring that down jacket as it can be very cold in the gorge. Sunscreen can be life saver as well if you’re planning to climb multi-pitches.

Accommodation
We have unpowered camping sites provisionally booked at Kalbarri Z-bend car park.  Please let us know numbers as soon as possible if you plan to attend, thus we can ensure that we have enough space to accommodate everybody.

Registering Your Interest Now
Please register by completing the online form ASAP and by 10:00 am Friday 21st September. We will then send confirmation with further details.

——

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Joining online is easy, through the link on the CAWA home page.

If you have any questions, please email both Elinor  Fleming (elinorf@climberswa.asn.au) who will be in Kalbarri to coordinate the trip and me (dirkk@climberswa.asn.au) who is helping with the preparation ahead of the long weekend.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Committee member and VP

——-

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

CAWA Eaglestone Trip, 25th and 26th August

It’s time to grab your winter woollies and pack up your car for a trip to the Wheatbelt to Eaglestone Rock. A 3.5 hour drive from Perth will take you to bulletproof  granite with good face climbing and edge. With over 30 bolted, trad and mixed routes there is something for everyone. Abseil stations are positioned on top of the major boulders. There are a number of fantastic routes including **Wishbone (17), **Capachow (19), * Pink Rings (18) ** and Ithica (22). So be sure to check out your Perth Rock Climbing Guide for route and access information.

Camping at Eaglestone is super easy, with the campground only a stone’s throw away from the crag. There is the luxury of a drop toilet, so no need to pack a shovel. However, there are no other facilitates or water so you will need to be completely self-sufficient. A guide of what to bring:

  • Cooking & camping gear, including plenty of water
  •  Firewood – there isn’t any to be collected from the ground, so we ask each car to bring firewood (it will be very cold at night, a camp fire will make the weekend infinitely warmer!)
  • Toilet paper
  • Warm clothing for night

You don’t need a 4WD but there is a short section of dirt road, followed by a section of good sand track easily accessible by 2WD. Last year, we had a mix of people arriving on Friday evening and Saturday morning.

Please note that CAWA trips are only open to current members. Non-members who are interested in coming can join online here: http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/membership/

To register for the trip, please email me kateb@climberswa.asn.au and I will send through a registration form. For those who have not been to Eaglestone before, let me know when you register, and I can provide some more descriptive notes of how to find the crag – can be a little tricky at night!

Hope you see you there!

Cheers

Kate Bailue
CAWA Committee Member

Self-Rescue Course, 10th-11th November 2018

The self-rescue course will be held on 10th and 11th of November 2018.  There are still places left.  So if your interested please me contact me ASAP.

In collaboration with Adventure Out, CAWA is pleased to offer an instructional two-day course designed to develop the technical skills, experience and confidence needed to safely perform self-rescue.

The course will be held at Mountain Quarry on Saturday, 10th November and Sunday, 11th November.

This course is ideal is a refresher or for those  trying to increase their confidence climbing outdoors so they can take on  those bigger bucketlist adventures.

Mountain Quarry offers a range of climbing challenges and serves as the ideal environment for learning self-rescue skills. 

 The instructors will provide participants with constant feedback and ensure appropriate safety standards are maintained throughout the course.

 Skill points will include:

  1. self-rescue (ascending and switching rope systems, anchoring methods, escaping compromised belay systems)
  2. partner rescue (conscious & unconscious)

 Prerequisites:

The course is set at an intermediate level, so you should be a confident top rope climber with experience in establishing belay systems utilising natural or artificial anchors and in belaying climbers. 

Price: $270 per person*

*All prices include GST. Additionally, CAWA will subsidize $50 per member for a net price of $220 per person.

Adventure Out will provide

  1. experienced instructor(s)
  2. all necessary rock climbing equipment (feel free to bring any personal gear you may have)
  3. $10 million public liability insurance
  4. comprehensive first aid kit

 Please note that CAWA events are a benefit for members. Joining online is easy through the CAWA web page.

If you are interested please:
  1. fill out the trip registration form; and
  2. e-mail me at dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Hope to see you there.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Vice President