CAWA Albany Trip Monday, 26 December – Sunday, 1 January

CAWA ALBANY TRIP!!!

The Christmas/New Year trip to Albany is almost here!

The dates this year will be Monday, 26 December 2016 to Sunday, 1 January 2017.

The climbing possibilities are endless: The Stirling Ranges, Porongurups and all of the areas around Albany. Magnificent West Cape Howe is a popular destination, along with Peak Head. There is also no shortage of hiking in the area, including the spectacular (and strenuous) ridge walk between Bluff Knoll and Ellen Peak in The Stirlings.

Accommodation will be booked in a lovely spot just out of Albany, to enable good access to all of the climbing areas.

We usually head into town for a feed on New Year’s Eve and a booking will made at Rustlers Steakhouse again this year, where we have had good food and speedy service the last couple of times.

We are doing our best to create opportunities for beginner climbers where we can. However, this particular trip is not well suited to beginners unless they are accompanied by an appropriately experienced person who assumes total responsibility for looking after them. This is partly due to everyone being spread out over different areas but also the nature of some of the climbing and skills required to access certain areas.

Important accommodation info:

We often have some flexibility with bookings but due to this being peak season, I have to confirm the numbers very soon, to ensure we have enough sites. If members want to be sure of getting a spot, then they need to let me know by Friday 2 December 2016.

Please note that CAWA trips are only open to current members. Not a member but keen to come along? Join online via this link: Become a CAWA member.

To register for the trip, please email me at: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au. Please include: how many in your group and their names, number of tents and roughly what size they are (i.e. 2, 3, 4 person tent). If you want to stay on until 2 January, let me know and I’ll see what I can do. Each person will need to complete a trip registration form but for now I just need numbers.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Memberships Officer

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced members you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Climb in WA. 1st. Brian Tan on Dancing the Deep Blue (26) WCH. ROSS WEITER

CAWA Guidebook Plagiarism Update and Resolution

CAWA Guidebook Plagiarism Update and Resolution

CAWA has been seeking to resolve a situation of plagiarism of the CAWA Perth Climbing Guidebook. The current CAWA Committee has inherited this issue and believes that an acceptable resolution has now been reached.

This post is to update and notify you of the outcome.

A brief summary:

In 2013 Shane Richardson published a new guidebook to the Perth region, which reproduced significant sections of the CAWA guidebook. He had been notified in a letter by CAWA prior to the publication of his guide that the CAWA guide is under copyright. Shane had not sought nor obtained permission to reproduce these sections.

The previous CAWA Committee sought legal advice, which confirmed that plagiarism had indeed taken place. In two letters, a lawyer representing CAWA asked Shane to cease promotion and sales of his guide and to confirm in writing that he will not in future use material under CAWA copyright. Shane answered to the first but not the second letter. The guidebook continued to be sold.

It should be noted that significant effort has gone into the creation of the CAWA guidebook and the guidebook was a significant source of revenue for CAWA prior to the publication of Shane’s guide.  CAWA guidebook revenue has halved since the introduction of Shane’s guidebook.

The 2016 CAWA Committee considered the options in regards to this matter. It was decided that – barring litigation, which could be lengthy, divisive for the climbing community, and costly – the legal avenues had now been exhausted.  The key driver was loss of ongoing income to CAWA through reduced sales, and the ongoing benefit Shane has gained through copying CAWA produced information.

The CAWA Committee therefore sought a meeting with Shane to find a way forward.  On 16 August of this year, CAWA Committee member Remi Vignals and CAWA President Mark Edele met with Shane to discuss the situation. At the meeting Shane advised that he had not received the second letter in full. There is no record of any follow up from the previous Committee regarding Shane’s receipt of the letter. Remi and Mark provided Shane a copy of the letter which advised that plagiarism has occurred. Three options were offered to Shane to settle the issue:

  • Admission that he copied sections of the CAWA guidebook. Agreement to financially compensate CAWA for damages by making a donation to the re-bolting fund, and agree to work with CAWA in the future to ensure this does not happen again.
  • No financial contribution but admission that he copied the material from the CAWA guidebook and to work with CAWA in the future to ensure this does not happen again.
  • No agreement that CAWA material was plagiarized. As a gesture of good will, he would make a donation to the CAWA re-bolting fund.

After some follow up by email with Shane a resolution has been reached. The settlement of the conflict between Shane and CAWA regarding plagiarism of the CAWA guidebook is as follows:

Shane admits that he made a mistake in not asking for permission to reprint copyrighted material from the CAWA guide and he will work with CAWA in the future to ensure that this does not occur again. The CAWA Committee, in turn, accepted this admission and will not pursue the issue further. The invitation to make a financial contribution to the re-bolting fund remains. Such a gesture would be welcomed by the Committee, and would be acknowledged as a follow-up to this post.

Any financial contribution would go towards the re-bolting fund CAWA is in the process of establishing. It uses CAWA funds to help increase the safety of routes in the state. By raising revenue for CAWA, buying the CAWA guidebook contributes to this initiative to increase the safety of routes in the state.

I hope that everybody can accept this compromise. It was the Committee’s judgment that it would be in the best interest of everybody involved to move forward rather than to look back.

 

Mark Edele

CAWA President

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News from the CAWA Committee (10 September 2016)

Dear CAWA members and fellow climbers,

It has been a busy couple of months for the committee since my last update. Many of us were travelling for work or climbing (or both), but CAWA business proceeded nevertheless. We had a successful CAWA trip to Eaglestone in July and published a new issue of the Western Climber, now available to the public on our website at http://www.climberswa.asn.au/publications/

Committee Members at Rosie O'Gradys at the CAWA Committee Meeting held on 10 September 2016.
Committee Members at Rosie O’Gradys at the CAWA Committee Meeting held on 10 September 2016.

The Access Subcommittee is continuing conversation with DPAW regarding Kalbarri. As you know, camping at the Promenade is prohibited for the time being, in order to give the Rock Wallabies a break from smelly climbers at night. DPAW has provided a “hikers and climbers only” campground near the Z-Bend carpark. I visited Kalbarri in August and stayed there. It’s a nice spot and the walk into the Gorge is quick and can serve as a warmup. To book, call the Kalbarri National Park Office on 9937-1140.

As I have noted in the Winter issue of the Western Climber, the Committee has decided to take up the widespread wish of our members to help with re-bolting of routes. Remi took the lead in this question and is working out the details at the moment. Thus far we have decided that we would not be involved in “retro-bolting” (that is, adding new bolts to existing routes) but only in “re-bolting”, that is replacing old or dodgy bolts with new ones, or adding anchors where appropriate. We are still in the process of working out the details but have decided to allocate $2000 this year to re-bolting. I will keep you informed about what, when, and how once these details are worked out.

Peter, Dirk and I have also formed a working party to revise our somewhat crusty constitution and to bring it in line with the new legislation on associations. We made some progress on this task in August, but given that Dirk is away climbing Mt. Elbrus and Peter walking the Haute Route, our progress has stalled somewhat since then. However, we will have everything in place for the next AGM.

Finally, we are still digesting the results of the survey of our members. It raised a lot of issues, and we are in the process of deciding what to prioritize over the next half year. We are a small committee of volunteers and we cannot possibly do all we would like to.

As far as the “Subcommittee on Sending” is concerned, everybody but Pete seems to have gotten out there and climbed some routes – or mountains, as in Dirk’s case. Nat, meanwhile, has worked on increasing the CAWA membership – he became a proud father! So the “CAWA parents’ group” is growing…

That’s all for now. Please feel free to contact any of the Committee members or myself, if you have any concerns, questions, or suggestions (http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/committee/ )

Stay safe out there, wear a helmet, and check your knot,

Mark Edele

CAWA President

Mount Frankland Trip – 24th-26th September

Mount Frankland Trip

Registration is now open! – CANCELLED DUE TO POOR WEATHER CONDITIONS

Saturday, 24th September to Monday, 25th September 2016 (Queen’s Birthday Long Weekend)

Please be aware that the weather is the deciding factor on this trip and if it is still raining (down south) shortly before the trip then the rock will be unclimbable and the trip will be cancelled. At this stage the weather is not looking good. However, the final decision will be made on Wednesday, 21st September. Until then think positive and make  your daily sacrifice to the rain gods.

Mt Frankland is located in the Mt Frankland National Park and is about 30km north of Walpole. It’s quite a drive from Perth, probably 5 hours give or take, but in my opinion it’s well worth it.

Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.
Dena Rao leading first pitch of Granitarium (17), Mt Frankland. Photo by Jena McDowall.

Your CAWA trip coordinators for this trip is Dirk Klicker.

The climbing is mainly bolted slab, with many routes up to 3 pitches long. So it is good if you are looking to gain some multi-pitch experience. The routes tend to be run-out, so people need to be fairly confident leading at the stated grade. Generally on CAWA trips there will be enough people around to lead the routes so that everyone can have a go. Most of the routes are bolted, but some require a mix of bolted and natural protection. Bolt plates will be required.

There is a variety of grades starting from about 15 and up. So there is something for everyone.

The West Australian Rock or the South Coast Rock Guidebooks are a good reference. There is some information on the CAWA web at the link Mt Frankland New Climbs or at On-line Guides/Mt Frankland.

The camping area is called Fernhook Falls and it is a well set up campground (this means tents) with drop toilets, a nice undercover kitchen area and a lovely river nearby for smelly climbers to brave at the end of the day (there are no shower facilities). It does get cold overnight, so pack warm. On past trips the march flies have been out in force, so some good, strong insect repellent is also recommended in case we are unlucky again this year.

There is no pre-booking, so it’s a first come. We do not expect it to be full.

If you need directions please send Dirk an e-mail.

You do need to bring your own food and drinking water for this trip but you can leave the shovel behind (there is a tap in the kitchen that feeds from a rainwater tank for cooking/washing dishes). Walpole is not that far away (about 35km) if you do need supplies and there is other more salubrious accommodation around. There are minimal camping fees ($7 per night per person/$5 concession). The rangers come around and check.

Remember to bring your own firewood.

If you interested e-mail Dirk and he will send you a registration form to confirm that you will be attending.

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Non-members who are interested in coming with you can join online now (easiest) or on the first day of the trip.

All participants need to be ‘independent participants’. This means you are responsible for your own safety. Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training. If you are an inexperienced climber then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend. However, Mt Frankland is a good beginner’s crag. If you are a beginner, it might pay to read CAWA Trips for some further information.

Feel free to contact us if you want to register.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Membership Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.as.au

Mob : +61 (0)400248815

CAWA MEMBERSHIP RENEWAL NOTICE 2016/2017

 

CAWA Renewal Notice 2017
CAWA Renewal Notice 2017

Hi Everyone!

Some of you already hold memberships for the 2016/2017 year, and some of you have already renewed your membership, if so please ignore this email (Life Members ditto).

For everyone else remaining, unfortunately your CAWA membership has expired!

It is now possible to renew your membership online at the CAWA website at the following link: http://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/membership/

My sincere apologies for the late renewal notice. The new committee is still getting familiar with the membership process and we thank you for your patience.

Membership prices are same as last year for a single and family membership, current prices are as

follows:

Period of Joining Single

 

Metro/Country

Family

 

Metro/Country

Youth (U18)
Metro/Country
July/Aug/Sept – 12 mths $65/ $60 $90/$80 $45/$40
Oct/Nov/Dec – 9 mths $50/ $45 $63/$54 $41/36
Jan/Feb/Mar – 6 mths $35 / $32 $46/$39 $30/26
Apr/May/June – 15 mths $80/ $72 $109/$95 $57/$50

It usually takes a week or so to process memberships and get cards posted, so if you need your membership before your card arrives, simply print off the tax receipt you receive from RegisterNow.

Any questions or problems, don’t hesitate to drop me an email me at dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

Safe Climbing!

 

Cheers,

Dirk Klicker

Memberships Officer

E-mail: dirkk@climberswa.asn.au

 

Climbers’ Association of Western Australia
PO Box 7125, Cloisters Square, WA, 6850
email : cawa@climberswa.asn.au
web : www.climberswa.asn.au
fb: www.facebook.com/climberswa

Local Climbing News – Bouldering Competition at Boulder Hub on 11 June 2016

In local climbing news:-

On Saturday, 11th June 2016, the The Boulder Hub in Wangara is holding the MOMENTUM Bouldering Competition.
It is a 2 hour climbing pump fest for climber’s of all abilities (novice, intermediate and open).
MOMENTUM is also the qualifier for the next World Cup format competition KINETIC which will be held on the 2nd and 3rd of July 2016.
 Registration for MOMENTUM closes on Sunday, 5 June 2016.
So do not miss out on the chance to climb, compete and smash a PB. Bring your best climbing buddies along! Spectators are welcome if you don’t want to compete.
CAWA encourages all members to participate and support our local climbing talent, competitions and gyms.
Momentum
Momentum

You can notify CAWA of your local climbing news or event by e-mailing CAWA directly at the following e-mail address (cawa@climberswa.asn.au).

Joining CAWA online is easy, through the link on the CAWA home page.


President’s Report – CAWA Committee Meeting, 27 April 2016

Dear fellow climbers,

I promised in my last blog to keep you updated on the work of the committee, hence this short note.

The committee held its second meeting on 27 April. The full committee was present and Kate Swain, the editor of Western Climber, also joined us. We discussed possible topics for the Western Climber and the way the committee will be involved in the editorial process. We finalized a letter to DPaW which the Access Subcommittee had prepared, with feedback on the new camping arrangements in Kalbarri (more information available in the recent “Kalbarri Update” post). We began working on a survey for members, which Nat is preparing, so we can find out what your concerns and wishes are; and we began working our way through our constitution, which requires significant reform due to upcoming legal changes (you will hear more about this over the year and see the proposal for change on the agenda for the next AGM). Other items on the agenda included the question if we should purchase a plastic card printer, to replace our current paper membership cards from 2017, necessary updates for our website (Dirk handles this aspect now), the necessity to replace the first aid kit, and insurance matters.

Nat enjoying hanging out in Tasmania
Nat enjoying hanging out in Tasmania

Most importantly, we drank beer and discussed the work of the “Subcommittee on Sending.” You might remember that we decided in our first meeting that as a committee of climbers, we had to climb as well as sit in meetings. Anybody who would not send anything outdoors between two meetings, would be formally excluded from the “subcommittee,” be subject to generalized pity, and be encouraged to send two routes before the next meeting to be “readmitted.” So far, the only victim of this policy was Vice-President Dan, who had not managed to get on real rock at all. Pitiful, indeed. Thanks to a short trip the Blue Mountains, the President was safe this time around, with, among others, a 21 flash and a clean 22 after a couple of attempts. Dirk and Nat had a very successful Tasmania trip with lots of trad climbing (and seemed to like to climb dodgy local climbs in the rain as well). Treasurer Kate had climbed Baylac Direct at Peak Head, Woody had pulled off hard boulders between V4 and V9, Remi climbed two trad routes (13 and 14) in Kalbarri. Brian limped over the line with one V2, normally a warm-up for him, and Peter also knocked off 4 fine climbs at Cosy Corner having been encouraged by the recent South West Rock guidebook.

Dirk basking in the glow after another send in Tasmania
Dirk basking in the glow after another send in Tasmania

Our next event is the Mt Randall Bouldering day on 21 or 22 May (depending on weather). I will have to go to get the necessary send to stay in the subcommittee and I hope to see many of you there. Meanwhile, if you do more than bouldering, don’t forget to check your knot.

Mark Edele

CAWA President

Foundation Day Long Weekend at Kalbarri

Dear members,

The long awaited Kalbarri trip is just around the corner: Friday 3rd to Monday 6th June 2016.

Sheer sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River provide trad, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing opportunities. Roughly 6.5 hour drive north of Perth, Kalbarri gorge is well worth the trip. Kalbarri National Park provides opportunities for trad leading in the middle and upper grades and sport climbing at a high level. You couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting. If you haven’t been before, Kalbarri gorge is truly spectacular and just a great spot to spend a weekend. Winter is prime climbing time in the gorge with excellent friction, pleasant temperatures and no flies.

kalbarriphoto2
Dave and Seb on Heavy Petting 23*** at The Promenade. Photo credit: Remi Vignals

Though the areas around the Z Bend tend to attract most climbers, there is some moderate trad climbing out at Hawke’s Head. Four Ways is also another great alternative if you want to avoid the crowd, whilst the remote Wonderwall offers some deep water soloing fun and is a pleasant day hike.

We would love to see you all there. We also need to make sure that everyone is clear about what to expect of the area. Kalbarri is not an ideal venue for beginners, unless they are accompanied by a suitably experienced climber. This is because access to routes will usually require lead climbing and the ability to set up top ropes is very limited. The climbing also tends to be moderate to very hard.

Guides
The main guides to the area are Northern Rock and West Australian Rock. These will give you a good idea of the climbing on offer. More routes have been posted on the forum since the above publications, here are some of them:
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-couple-of-new-kalbarri-routes/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-long-natural-line/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-new-route-in-the-pit/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Access
From Perth, head north to Geraldton, Northampton and Kalbarri. The road out to the Z Bend is now sealed for the first twelve kilometres. The remaining section can be in variable conditions but accessible by 2WD.

Weather
Check the weather forecast to choose your clothing appropriately: if the forecast announces less than 15 degrees and windy, bring that down jacket as it can be very cold in the gorge. Sunscreen can be life saver as well if you’re planning to climb multi-pitches.

Accommodation
We have unpowered camping sites provisionally booked nearby Kalbarri Township. A deposit is required to secure the camping so please let me know numbers as soon as possible if you plan to attend, thus I can ensure that we have enough space to accommodate everybody.

Registering Your Interest
Please register by emailing remiv@climberswa.asn.au ASAP and by noon Friday 20th May. I will then send confirmation with further details.


Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Joining online is easy, through the link on the CAWA home page.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me by email: remiv@climberswa.asn.au.

Remi Vignals

CAWA Committee member


Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

 

President’s Report – CAWA Committee Meeting, 23 March 2016

Hi everyone and welcome to the new 2016 CAWA committee.

For those who don’t know me, my name is Mark Edele and I’ve just been elected as the President for CAWA in 2016. My climbing background is fairly varied. Growing up in Bavaria, my father trained me as an alpinist, with heavy boots and tying directly into the rope. We were climbing according to the “three-points-fixed” and “the-leader-does-not-fall” rules. In my teens I got interested in bouldering and sports climbing, until a 7c in Ceuse dislocated my shoulder. This injury in my early 20s ended my first climbing career. After shoulder reconstruction and two decades of marathon running, triathlon, and bike racing I returned to the rocks in 2011. I joined CAWA in the same year and served as treasurer in 2015. These days I climb up to the low 20s (on a good day) and prefer trad climbing to sport routes, but do both. I boulder if I have no other option, but I’m scared of breaking an ankle! I am married and have a daughter, Anna, a seven year old crusher and CAWA member. You can usually find us Monday afternoons at Rockface or the Boulder Hub and me Wednesdays at Rockface and on the weekends at local crags.If you see me around the gyms or crags please come and say hello, I’d love to chat to you about all things climbing or any questions or concerns you may have.

Willyabrup 04 - 04-03-13
We had our first meeting as the new CAWA committee on 23 March 2016 at Rosie O’Grady’s. We are fortunate to have a diverse range of experienced climbers on the committee, and for the first time in years it’s full! You can check out the new committee here. This also provides you with contact details if you need to get in touch with anyone.

One of the tasks we have set for ourselves this year is to improve communication between the committee and ordinary members. As part of this effort, I will write a blog entry after each committee meeting summarizing what we discussed. This does not replace your right, as a member of CAWA to read the minutes of the meetings, rather, I hope it will help keep you informed so you will know when to exercise this right.

The first meeting was largely an organizational one, but you’ll be happy to know we decided to plan the full year of CAWA trips for you in advance. More information at http://www.climberswa.asn.au/events/ and don’t worry, we will also send out reminders closer to the date in case you forget! There is the now a rack full of trips to Kalbarri, Eaglestone, Margaret River, and Albany; we will also continue to run gym crashes every other month. Given we have a number of experienced boulderers on the committee we are excited to include a day bouldering trip this year. If you haven’t bouldered before, come along and try out a new style of climbing, you might get hooked! We are still discussing what other events (including training) we will be able to offer in addition to those on the current list for the year. I will keep you posted and in the meantime please feel free to get in touch with any requests.

In order to handle access issues, we formed an Access Subcommittee, chaired by Vice President Dan Binks. Dirk Klicker, Gareth Wood, Remi Vignals, Nathan Cole, and Peter Thomas. The Access Subcommittee will handle access issues as directed by the CAWA committee. If you become aware of any access issues, want to work toward re-opening climbing at Wallcliffe, are looking to develop an area or need more information, please get in touch with Dan.

In order to encourage committee members to not forget that they are a governing committee of a climbers’ association, we also formed the “Subcommittee on Sending.” The following rules apply:

  1. All Committee members are automatically members of the Subcommittee on Sending.
  2. Sends are to be reported at each Committee meeting and acclaimed by the rest of the Committee
  3. Only outdoor sends count. No plastic.
  4. Any member who fails to send anything for more than one month, will be excluded from the subcommittee. S/he will be the subject of generalized pity.
  5. An excluded subcommittee member will be readmitted upon sending at least two climbs between two committee meetings.
  6. Any sends count – no matter the grade or height (boulder problems count).

We’ll see how many of us will survive as members of the subcommittee. I am glad to report that the President has his send for the month in the bag (Slash and Burn, 19, Churchmans) and will hence remain on the subcommittee for the time being.

Finally, we discussed issues for the year ahead. They include:

  • ongoing management of access issues
  • focus on communication and a more presence in social media
  • legal changes for associations requiring some action on our part
  • the revision of our somewhat archaic constitution
  • further improvements to the western climber

We are also looking at things we could do better, some of these include:

  • improving the website and blog
  • plastic membership cards
  • once-off insurance options for non-members to join trips
  • member feedback

The next committee meeting is scheduled for 27 April. If there are any issues you would like to bring to the attention of the Committee, please do not hesitate to contact me (marke@climberswa.asn.au).

Meanwhile, have fun climbing and check your knot.

Mark Edele

CAWA President