Skills Workshop

Have you been wanting to further your outdoor climbing skills?!

Want to learn how to safely set up a toprope say at Wilyabrup or know useful rescue techniques that you can have in your back pocket in the event of an emergency or even how to haul your seconder when struggling through the crux of a climb?

CAWA together with Adventure Out is proud to announce our Skills Workshop on Saturday 9th November where we’ll be going through:

– Safely setting up a toprope anchor
– Setting up effective anchors that you can escape if necessary
– Rescue techniques, scenarios and hauling

This would be perfect for adventure climbers who want to learn to be self-sufficient for when things go pear-shaped, for sport climbers who want to set up topropes, belay from the top and progress into multi-pitch sport climbing and for beginner climbers who would like to transition to outdoor climbing.

Date and TimeSaturday 9 November 2019
8:30 am – 12:30 pm AWST
LocationMountain Quarry
Price$10 for CAWA members
$40 for non-members (become a member)
RegistrationRegister here!
More infoContact Elinor

Kalbarri Clean Up – 30th September 2019

Since it’s almost the end of the Kalbarri season, we’re going to get the place spic and span! This is not a special trip, but for those already in the area. Join us at 12pm at the climber’s campsite. Gloves and bags provided, and prizes to be won! Email Elinor or Shevaun to let us know you’ll be helping out.

(Please remember in general to aim to reduce your impact at all our spectacular crags. Pack out what you brought in, and clean off those tick marks!)

Eaglestone Trip – September long weekend 2019

Join us for the September long weekend! Eaglestone Rock offers moderate sport, mixed, and trad routes on nicely-textured granite, and is situated on an expansive salt lake (get up early for a sunrise; you won’t regret it!)

A 3.5 hour drive from Perth will take you to bulletproof  granite with good face climbing and edges. With over 30 bolted, trad and mixed lines there is truly something for everyone; in particular, there are some excellent moderate routes. Abseil stations are positioned on top of the major boulders. Classics include **Wishbone (17), **Capachow (19), * Pink Rings (18) ** and Ithica (22). So be sure to check out your Perth Rock Climbing Guide or The Crag for route and access information.

Camping at Eaglestone is super easy, with the campground only a stone’s throw away from the crag. There is the luxury of a drop toilet, so no need to pack a shovel. However, there are no other facilities or water so you will need to be completely self-sufficient. A guide of what to bring:

  • Cooking & camping gear, including plenty of water
  •  Toilet paper
  • Warm clothing for night

You don’t need a 4WD but there is a short section of dirt road, followed by a section of good sand track easily accessible by 2WD.

Please make sure you’ve read through our information on CAWA trips.

To register, please fill in the form no later then on Wed 25th and contact Dave – he’s also our contact point for this event!

Transition to climbing outdoors workshop on 14 Sep 2019: Report

With the number of new climbing gyms opening up in Perth, the popularity of climbing and bouldering indoors has grown exponentially.

When I first started climbing indoors, learning the ropes outdoors was essentially going along with a more experienced climber and entrusting them to know what they are doing and will put your safety first. I was pretty fortunate however not everyone may have that opportunity. With the abundance of information available on the internet these days, it’s just as easy to watch a Youtube video in the morning and go climbing outdoors for the first time by noon. You don’t know what you don’t know and being oblivious, you could be putting yourself or others at risk.

The “Transition to Climbing Outdoors” Workshop was an idea to bridge the gap between the indoors and out, a workshop to help people gain confidence to safely venture out on their own and enjoy what the outdoors has to offer.

Our first “Transition to Climbing Outdoors” Workshop was held on Saturday 14th September at Mountain Quarry, Perth’s local outdoor gym. Through theory and practical activities, our team of 8 volunteers shared the importance of preparation, communication and awareness when we go climbing. As well as the attitude we should be bringing to the rock, learning how to use our equipment to safely climb up, clean anchors and come back down.

Safety is an attitude that we choose to carry and begins days before we jump in the car. We shared the importance of preparation, such as understanding the expected weather conditions as well as how to tease out vital information from route descriptions. A show and tell pointing out different types of bolts on the rock and passing around some dodgy bolts gave the participants an awareness of what they should they be looking out for. The importance of effective communication on the rock and common misunderstandings, how to safely belay when climbing outdoors as well as last-minute checks before leaving the ground highlighted the importance of preparation.

The afternoon practical session focused around understanding what to do when we reach a bolt and when we reach the anchor. All participants practiced cleaning the anchors multiple times on the ground before cleaning a climb with the support from their instructor hanging by their side.

The workshop received really positive feedback from both the participants and community and we’d like to thank everyone for their support, it means a lot to the team.

Looking forward to seeing you all on the rock.


Safe climbing
Peter Zhang

Transition to Outdoor Climbing Workshop

Have you ever wanted to climb outdoors but not sure how to do so safely?

Have you ever wanted to learn through a free workshop instead of paying for a formal training course?

CAWA’s first “Transition to Outdoor Climbing” Workshop is here!!

A day of learning and sharing knowledge with experienced climbers in a fun and relaxed atmosphere. Be quick, spots are limited.

When and Where

Perth Hills on Saturday 14 September 2019 – Weather permitting

What

What gear do I need to climb outside
How to read a route and route finding
How to clip bolts
Effective communication
How to “clean” once you get to the anchor
How to be a safe belayer

Prerequisite

Must have a gym lead pass

Schedule

10AM – Meet up
10AM – 12PM – Workshop
12PM – Lunch
1PM – 3PM – Workshop

Registration

Please register here. You will receive a follow-up email to confirm your registration and further details for the day.

Kalbarri Update June 2019

G’day climbers,

Here is an update and some general house keeping issues.

THE Z-BEND WILL BE CLOSED FOR CONSTRUCTION FROM THE 4TH OF JUNE.

This means there will be no-access (camping or parking) to Z-bend. This is expected to last about 3 months. The rangers have kindly offered to make exceptions for registered climbers, subject to the approval of the construction site team.

To apply for this exemption, it will be best to email the senior ranger Mike Paxman mike.paxman@dbca.wa.gov.au using this  multi-day registration form .

GENERAL HOUSE KEEPING

1- Remember that no toilet waste is allowed within 500m of the Promenade / Rock wallaby site. Therefore, it’s best to use the toilet facilities at the Z Bend carpark before hiking down the gorge.

No toilet waste area around The Promenade site.

No toilet waste area around The Promenade site.

2- Since the rediscovery of the rare Black Footed Rock Wallabies in 2015, camping is not permitted in the gorge within 1.5Km of the Z Bend Lookout – this includes the area around the Promenade climbing site.

3- However, there is a camping area near the Z Bend car park that is set aside for school groups, but the privilege is also extended to climbers. We are, however, on thin ice here so please register by completing the multi-day registration form and emailing it to either Mike Paxman mike.paxman@dbca.wa.gov.au (Senior Ranger) or Lisa Gould lisa.gould@dbca.wa.gov.au.

4- Climbers new to Kalbarri may phone the Kalbarri National Park Office to get directions to the alternate camping area (it is not sign posted).

Map of Alternative campsite adjacent to the Z-bend carpark

Map of the alternative campsite adjacent to the Z Bend carpark

5- Immediately close the gate behind you when driving in and out of the alternative camping area near the Z Bend carpark. The campsite is 200 metres past the gate. Please use a designated site (first come first serve) and stay away from the vegetation regrowth and rehab area (short bushes and trees held up by sticks within the campsite) and do NOT pitch a tent there.

6- The campsite has no water and all rubbish must be taken out of the park. There are drop-toilets at the campsite and at the car park.

7- Due to the elevated risk of bushfire in the sandplain areas no open fires is allowed in the alternative camping area (gas cookers only).

8- Last but not least, remember to limit the use of excess chalk (especially on overhanging walls) and systematically brush it before you leave the site – the same goes for boulderers venturing on virgin rocks! Also, try not to use any  chalk in high traffic areas such as the river trail / Aviary / Tourist wall.

A Park Entry fee of $12 per car and a camping fee of $8 per night per person apply.

The Park Entry can be paid for by credit card on the all-hours machine available at the main entrance of the park (just off Ajana-Kalbarri road). However, the camping fees must be paid for by cash stuffed in an envelope and inserted into the box next to the above mentioned machine.

For those of us who suffer the Tumblagooda Fever and need their regular fix of sandstone, you can wave the car entry fee by opting for the DPAW Annual All Parks Pass (Standard: $92):
https://parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/know/park-passes

If you are a member of the RAC, you can get 50% off the pass:
https://rac.com.au/travel-touring/wa-holidays/wa-national-park-passes

Leave no trace.

Elinor Fleming

Please email me if you have any queries or want to help with keeping access: elinorf@climberswa.asn.au

The multi-day registration form is now available on the CAWA website:

http://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Kalbarri-NP-Registration-form-by-CAWA.pdf

Following are the phone numbers for the Kalbarri National Park Office and the Rangers Mike and Russell.  Please direct all general enquiries to the Kalbarri National Park Office.  The Rangers numbers are there FOR EMERGENCIES ONLY.

Business Hours:

Kalbarri National Park Office:     08 9937 1140    –    08 993 7114 (fax)

After Hours: FOR EMERGENCY SITUATIONS ONLY

Senior Ranger:                        08 9937 1192    –    0417 181 314 (mob)

Ranger:                                  08 9937 1424    –    0427 199 518 (mob)

Long Weekend at Kalbarri 1st-3rd June 2019

Dear members,

The long awaited Kalbarri trip is just around the corner: Saturday 1st of June to Monday, 3rd of June 2019.

Remi on Keith Goes Blank 15***

Sheer sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River provide trad, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing opportunities. Roughly 6.5 hour drive north of Perth, Kalbarri gorge is well worth the trip. Kalbarri National Park provides opportunities for trad leading in the middle and upper grades and sport climbing at a high level. You couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting. If you haven’t been before, Kalbarri gorge is truly spectacular and just a great spot to spend a weekend. Winter is prime climbing time in the gorge with excellent friction, pleasant temperatures and no flies.

Though the areas around the Z Bend tend to attract most climbers, there is some moderate trad climbing out at Hawk’s Head. Four Ways is also another great alternative if you want to avoid the crowd, whilst the remote Wonderwall offers some deep water soloing fun and is a pleasant day hike.

We would love to see you all there!

Guides
The main guides to the area are Northern Rock and West Australian Rock. These will give you a good idea of the climbing on offer. More routes have been posted on the forum since the above publications, here are some of them:
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-couple-of-new-kalbarri-routes/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-long-natural-line/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-new-route-in-the-pit/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-in-kalbarri/
https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-crack-climbs-at-kalbarri/

Access
From Perth, head north to Geraldton, Northampton and Kalbarri. The road out to the Z Bend is now sealed and accessible by 2WD.

Weather
Check the weather forecast to choose your clothing appropriately: if the forecast announces less than 15 degrees and windy, bring that down jacket as it can be very cold in the gorge. Sunscreen can be life saver as well if you’re planning to climb multi-pitches.

Accommodation
We have unpowered camping sites provisionally booked at Murchison Station.  Please let us know numbers as soon as possible if you plan to attend, thus we can ensure that we have enough space to accommodate everybody.

Registering Your Interest Now
Please register by completing the online form ASAP and by 10:00 am Wednesday, 29th May. We will then send confirmation with further details.

If you have any questions about the area or the trip, please email Elinor  Fleming (elinorf@climberswa.asn.au) who will be in Kalbarri to coordinate the trip.

Happy climbing!

Elinor Fleming

CAWA Ordinary Member

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Long weekend at Kalbarri, 19-22 April 2019

Dear members,

The long awaited Kalbarri trip is just around the corner: Friday, 19th to Monday, 22nd April 2019.

Remi on Keith Goes Blank 15***

Sheer sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River provide trad, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing opportunities. Roughly 6.5 hour drive north of Perth, Kalbarri gorge is well worth the trip. Kalbarri National Park provides opportunities for trad leading in the middle and upper grades and sport climbing at a high level. You couldn’t ask for a more picturesque setting. If you haven’t been before, Kalbarri gorge is truly spectacular and just a great spot to spend a weekend. Winter is prime climbing time in the gorge with excellent friction, pleasant temperatures and no flies.

Though the areas around the Z Bend tend to attract most climbers, there is some moderate trad climbing out at Hawk’s Head. Four Ways is also another great alternative if you want to avoid the crowd, whilst the remote Wonderwall offers some deep water soloing fun and is a pleasant day hike.

We would love to see you all there. We also need to make sure that everyone is clear about what to expect of the area. Kalbarri is not an ideal venue for beginners, unless they are accompanied by a suitably experienced climber. This is because access to routes will usually require lead climbing and the ability to set up top ropes is very limited. The climbing also tends to be moderate to very hard.

Guides
The main guides to the area are Northern Rock and West Australian Rock. These will give you a good idea of the climbing on offer. More routes have been posted on the forum since the above publications, here are some of them:
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-couple-of-new-kalbarri-routes/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-long-natural-line/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-new-route-in-the-pit/
http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-in-kalbarri/
https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-crack-climbs-at-kalbarri/

Access
From Perth, head north to Geraldton, Northampton and Kalbarri. The road out to the Z Bend is now sealed and accessible by 2WD.

Weather
Check the weather forecast to choose your clothing appropriately: if the forecast announces less than 15 degrees and windy, bring that down jacket as it can be very cold in the gorge. Sunscreen can be life saver as well if you’re planning to climb multi-pitches.

Accommodation
We have unpowered camping sites provisionally booked at Kalbarri Z-bend car park.  Please let us know numbers as soon as possible if you plan to attend, thus we can ensure that we have enough space to accommodate everybody.

Registering Your Interest Now
Please register by completing the online form ASAP and by 10:00 am Wednesday, 17th April. We will then send confirmation with further details.

Please note that CAWA trips are a benefit for members. Joining online is easy, through the link on the CAWA home page.

If you have any questions, please email both Elinor  Fleming (elinorf@climberswa.asn.au) who will be in Kalbarri to coordinate the trip and me (dirkk@climberswa.asn.au) who is helping with the preparation ahead of the long weekend.

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Committee member and VP

Due to legal and liability issues, CAWA does not provide training on trips. All climbers must be independent participants who are completely responsible for themselves. If you are an inexperienced climber, then have a chat to some of the more experienced people you know and see if they are planning to attend.

Access Update, 5 February 2019

On 12 December 2018, the Shire of Augusta Margaret River (“the Shire”) resolved to chop the bolts at Wallcliffe and to ban public access.

Therefore, the Shire currently maintains that climbing at Wallcliffe is banned.

The Shire Rangers are authorised to issue infringement notices and to confiscate climbing equipment in the event that climbers are found climbing at the crag.

The result of this decision is that we have in WA regrettably lost an iconic and irreplaceable crag in circumstances where the amount of climbing in WA is already limited.  This is a wakeup call to the WA climbing community.

The minutes of the ordinary council meeting of 12 December 2018 were published on 18 December 2018 and a copy can be downloaded from the following link:

Minute of ordinary council meeting of 12 December 2018

A full transcript of the deputation made on behalf of CAWA is below.

The behaviours that the Shire used to support their actions were as follows:

  1. Leaving chalk on the cliff.
  2. Pruning of trees at the waters edge.
  3. Defecation in caves.
  4. Playing of loud music in caves.
  5. Graffiti and vandalism.
  6. Entering the caves.
  7. Intentional damage to vegetation.
  8. Damage to cliffs from bolting.

Climbing outdoors is not a right but essentially a privilege that can be lost at any moment at any crag.

There are currently situations where crags are at risk of being lost in Australia and overseas.  They are having some serious issues in the Grampians.  According to the Access Fund US, 1 in 5 climbing areas in the US is threatened.

It is up to every climber take all reasonable steps to ensure that their conduct outdoors is such that the risk of losing a crag, especially when the number of climbers heading outdoors is steadily increasing with the popularity of climbing set to skyrocket in the next few years.

Climbers heading outdoors should be familiar with and adhere to the following:

CAWA has established an Access Subcommittee to tackle future access issues in WA.

If you have any questions about access you can e-mail CAWA directly access@climberswa.asn.au or cawa@climberswa.asn.au or e-mail any of the CAWA Committee Members or message via the CAWA Facebook Page.

Climb safely and responsibly,

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Vice President

 

Deputation Transcript of 12 December 2018

  1. CAWA acknowledges the traditional owners of the Land (the Wardandi people) and would like to pay respects to the Elders past and present.
  2. Firstly, CAWA respectfully urges the Council not to “chop the bolts”:
    • Climbing has taken place at Wallcliffe for nigh 30 years, most routes being set in the early 90s. There is no urgency, as they don’t affect the Council’s plans for a public viewing platform.
    • Wallcliffe is a key location for climbing in WA. There is only one other area of similar character of limestone climbing, where climbing is permitted by management plan.  Chopping the bolts will forever close an iconic chapter of climbing history in WA.
    • The bolts are required to climb safely at Wallcliffe, as they are needed to protect the climber from falls.
    • The small heads of the climbing bolts that protrude from the cliff, would not be visible from the platform proposed. They are visible only on close inspection.
    • The Golder geological study and the Goode cultural study did not recommend removal. There is no report that recommends the removal or which finds that removal conflicts Shire’s plans.
    • The anecdotal evidence does not support removal:
      • Pruning of trees at the waters edge. Not climbing related. 
      • Defecation in caves. Not climbing related.
      • Playing of loud music in caves. Not climbing related. 
      • Graffiti and vandalism. It is not part of the culture of climbing.  There are graffiti artists that pride themselves on putting graffiti in high places.
      • The only evidence of people entering the caves are permit holders. Not climbers. 
      • Intentional damage to vegetation. Some silly do-gooder trimmed the existing access path.  Not climbing related.
      • All of the above are addressed in the draft management plan CAWA has provided to Council and the traditional owners. No response has been received from the Council to date. The traditional owners have indicated that they are considering the draft management plan.
    • The investigations of Council to date are inconclusive as to the person(s) responsible for environmental damage at Walcliffe, noting the Cape to Cape Track runs adjacent and the area is reasonably popular with tourists.
    • In WA no other open access climbing area has a problem with bolts (e.g. Churchmans Brook, Kalbarri, Willyabrup, Albany, West Cape Howe, Bluff Knoll and Porongurup). At Albany, Porongrup and Bluff Know there is a viewing platforms.  So why chop the bolts?
    • The bolts cannot be removed, as that would cause more damage to the cliff. The small protruding head of the bolts must be carefully ground off, some damage to the cliff is likely.
    • Delaying a decision to chop the bolts will permit a period of consultation and not prevent the Shire from proceeding with its proposed plans.
  3. Secondly, CAWA respectfully urges the Council not to “ban all access”, as the following concerns have not been addressed:
    • A ban on access would be invalid being inconsistent with the Management Order to manage the Crown Land for the purposes of “Recreation”. A ban on access will prevent recreation including climbing.  Shire’s attorneys have not addressed this issue.
    • Nor have the Shire’s attorneys properly addressed the legal issues raised by CAWA regarding the validity of the 2013 Determination concerning climbing or the related Determination proposed to be made today.
    • The Council should defer any decision on the proposed Determination pending the resolution of these serious legal issues.
    • Further, a ban on access is not supported by expert or anecdotal evidence. All previous reports have recommended restricted access.
    • With respect, Shire has not properly considered other options involving restricted access such as a management plan, codes of conduct, permits, licenses, booking systems or further education or signage.
    • Council proposes to move from completely free public access to a complete ban without proper consideration of options in between.
    • The Standing Committee overturned similar local laws in the 1990s and recommended that the Shire consult with CAWA and consider a management plan. That recommendation has not been followed and history is repeating itself.
    • A number of petitions protesting against the chopping of the bolts and banning access have been signed by over 300 people and presented.
    • A ban on public access whilst permitting access by commercial enterprises sends the wrong message.
    • Allowing commercial interests to profit from visiting Walcliffe is also inconsistent with the Shire’s apparent desire to rigidly protect the cultural significance of Walcliffe.
    • Ironically one of the current permit holders facilitates 3,000 people per annum visiting the site. Climbers would probably number no more than 200 per annum.
    • CAWA urges the Council to defer making the proposed Determination today, until outstanding legal issues have been resolved, and proper consultation has occurred regarding public recreational (including climbing) access in accordance with the purposes of the Reserve.
    • CAWA is willing to work collaboratively with the Shire and the traditional owners to find an acceptable compromise.
  4. Thank you madam President for the opportunity to speak here today. I am now open to any questions.

No rock climbing sign.

 

How to Save Wallcliffe

The Shire of Augusta Margaret River has now published the Agenda for the Council Meeting to be held on 12 December 2018.

At the Council Meeting, the Shire proposes to:

  1. Ban all access to Wallcliffe not just climbing.
  2. Chop off all climbing bolts at Wallcliffe.

If you want to save Wallcliffe, then follow the steps provided below under the heading “How to Save Wallcliffe“.  It’s simple.

If you are not sure what has been happening to date, then search our previous posts about Wallcliffe in the search bar.

We have updated recent correspondences and documents in the Public Document Folder.  A good summary of the situation is contained in the CAWA Submissions re Local Law Determination in Relation to Wallcliffe Cliffs and River.

How to Save Wallcliffe

  1. Share this post with as many people as you can by social media. That’s simple.
  2. If you are an elector and resident of the Shire, then download and complete a Petition to Save Wallcliffe.   The petition is in Word Format so you can amend it. If you have to amend the petition, please use respectful language. If you started the petition, then you must insert your full name, address and e-mail in the section marked “********”.  Print a whole bunch of the petitions.  Hit the streets, knock on doors, hold events and get as many other electors and residents of the shire to sign your petition.  The petitioners must complete their details and indicate that they “Agree”. Very important, if you get more than 3 petitioners, then they must sign a separate form, as the signatures must be on the same form with all the requests numbered 1 to 10. The more supporters that you can get to sign your petition the better chance you have of success. Then e-mail all your petitions to the President and Councillors via the e-mails addresses shown on the petition. Write something in the cover e-mail like “Dear Councillors, I refer to the agenda for the Ordinary Council Meeting on 12 December 2018 and I attach my petition which has [insert] number of supporters.” You must get these petitions in urgently. As time is running out. Then try to telephone Your Councillors and get their support. If you have any questions about your petition, then e-mail dirkk@climberswa.asn.au.
  3. If you are an elector and resident of the Shire, then attend the Ordinary Council Meeting on 12 December 2018.
  4. If you are not an elector or resident of the Shire, then contact your family and friends who are electors or residents and get on to them to create download and complete a Petition to Save Wallcliffe. Get them to follow the instructions above.
  5. If you are not an elector or resident of the Shire, then down load and complete both a Petition to Save Wallcliffe to the Legislative Council and a Petition to Save Wallcliffe to the Legislative Assembly. The petitions are Word Format so you can amend them. If you have to amend the petitions, please use respectful language. If you started the petition, then must insert your full name, address and e-mail in the section indicated.  Print a whole bunch of the petitions.  Get as many other people to sign your petition. Only original signatures are permitted. The petitioners must complete their details. Very important, if you get too many petitioners that fit on the form, then they must sign a separate form, as the signatures must be on the same form as the request. The more supporters that you can get to sign your petition the better chance you have of success. Then you must contact your local member and telephone them to arrange to submit your petition. Find your local member by using the “find your member” on the WA Parliament Website. E-mail a copy of your petitions to the Councillors of the Shire with a courteous e-mail. You must get these petitions in urgently. As time is running out. If you have any questions about your petition, then e-mail dirkk@climberswa.asn.au.

If you have any other ideas and thoughts, then e-mail us them to us at cawa@climbers.wa.asn.au.

Climb safe!

Dirk Klicker

CAWA Vice President