Reply To: Newman Climbing

A bit more info. After recently stopping in Newman for a couple of days to check out the climbing, I discovered there’ve been a few changes in the last 25 years. I used the WA Rock guide (2002) which lists 4 x crags and Dave Wagland also gave me a few tips.

Eagle Rock Falls (the most significant crag). All approaches to from the southwest indicated in guidebook are blocked by a railway and open-cut mine. The best eastern approach (not in guidebook) follows a 4WD track on the north side of the Kalgan river and a gutsy 4WD (and a bit of skill) is needed to negotiate the last 4km of rocky technical terrain. A permit is required from the information centre to cross the mining railway line and they also have photocopied maps (you’ll need it). Not wanting risk serious damage to my X-trail and probably a 20km walk back to the highway to seek help, I aborted the last 4km so did not get a chance to climb here. It took about 90min to reach this point. 4WDs with higher clearance and low range might have better luck but the last 4km would test the abilities of any 4WD.

An approach to this point can also be made from a track branching from the Kalgan Pool track (indicated in the guidebook), however this track is also very tricky (I did it in my X-trail but got stuck for an hour or two). Again, a fully capable 4WD is required and this approach is really only worth considering if you’re camping along the Kalgan River as you’ll still have to negotiate the last 4km into Eagle Rock Falls. There’s also about 5 or 6 river crossings up to about 80cm deep along the Kalgan Pool track which the information centre did not know about.

Byroms Bluff. Access to this area has been cut off due to another open-cut mine that’s been running for the past 12 years. By the looks of things, the crag, or parts of it, are most likely lining the shelves of Bunnings in the form of metal parts as all hills in the area have been cut, blasted and probably shipped over to China!

Poon Hill (Round Hill as called by locals). No access issues here. Matter of fact the guide says the area is an aboriginal sacred site, however this was news to the information centre and the standard signage at such sites was nowhere to be found. The crag is easily accessed by 2WD just a short distance from the Great Northern Highway.

Although not a high cliff, the rock here is pretty good despite most cliffs in the region quite chossy. ‘Poons in the Gym’ (21) is very nice. The pitons are still pretty solid and in fairly good nick, however the route could probably be done entirely on trad gear if the second piton was removed to make way for small cams. ‘Capricorn Nipples’ (17) is also a nice route that can be done entirely on trad gear. ’Hillside Views’ (25) is a good finger workout but the bolts are a bit rusted and dodgy by todays standards. Most of the bolts on this crag probably need to be replaced. The crag faces North East so the best time of the day to climb is after 2pm when the shade starts to come around.

Kuba’s Crag. I did not get the chance to climb here, however Dave told me the climbing is better compared to Poon Hill and, according to the information centre, it is still accessible.

Camping. Newman is not the most pleasant place. Mining dominates the area with a number mountains and hills in the process of being levelled and even a few tourist attractions now earmarked for exploration. You wonder what the place is going to look like after it all ends (if at all). However amid the destruction, the Kalgan Pool (some climbing potential) and upper Kalgan River is an oasis providing some very nice camping spots and caves to explore. 2WDs can make it all the way to the first river crossing. Camping is permitted at all crags. Although not particularly attractive, there is some camping potential around Poon Hill, however it might the attract interest from locals if left unattended.

Wrap up. After 2 full days, I probably tested my 4WD skills more than my climbing as I only climbed at one of the three remaining crags mainly due to losing the better part of a day trying to get in and out of Eagle Rock Falls. Without climbing at two of the three crags it’s hard to say if a trip to Newman specifically for climbing would be worth it considering Kalbarri is only half the distance from Perth, perhaps better climbing and in some cases easier access. However saying that, if you’re passing through Newman and have a solid 4WD then you’re sure to have a nice little adventure.