Reply To: Buying nuts

Hi Ben,

I like DMM Wallnuts because of the double taper – let me explain. When you place a Wallnut “normally” then the top of the nut is wider than the bottom right? HOWEVER, if you turn a Wallnut sideways then the top is still wider than the bottom!! Eureka!!! Both pairs of the opposing sides are slanted so the nut tapers either way. This has the major benefit that each nut can be put into 2 completely different sizes of cracks. Most other nuts don’t seem to have this feature, the old BD ones did not, don’t know about now as have not bought any nuts for years. I have both Wallnuts and BD Stoppers and find Wallnuts heaps better.

Warning – Metolius make really horrible and useless anodised nuts, stay clear of that and of anything European continental (e.g. Camp). They climb on bolts so have no idea how to make trad gear.

The No. 1 and 2 RPs are very useful also, for shallow cracks.

hexes are very good on Bluff Knoll. If you have just a few cams and a tight budget then you can supplement rack with them. But if money is no object and BK does not becon then I would steer clear.