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such a nice change to come back to ‘ol WA after climbing in places where a sense of perspective reigns.

does it really need to be said that probably 50% of the routes in the quarries are deliberately drilled, chipped or glued anyway (yes wombats, urban ethics, sweet pea, chips and dips, fuzz bucky etc – all chipped/drilled). Or that probably 30% of the remaining ones are comfortised, glue-reinforced or creatively cleaned?

heck, step outside of the quarries onto hallowed ground that is so coveted as virginal and you’ll find many a glue reinforced hold – but that is a different story altogether.

have any nay sayers actually climbed matt and jim’s new routes at mountain/stathams quarry? cause if you had, you would realise that theyre bloody good climbs – great test pieces at different grades that aspiring leaders can redpoint for that “i climb xx” spray. think youre a 24 climber cause you dogged the shit out of hang ten? well you used to be able to say that cause there wasnt another good 24 on bolts close to perth.

lets also not forget others that do the same – a few routes by different authors have gone up in the last year or two via the same processes.

and the trite whines of ‘so i can go and chip an existing climb and call it mine?’ – no dickhead you cant, cause someone else has climbed it. Can you go and clean/bolt and then chip your own bit of quarry heaven – yep go for it, we need more routes!

the bits of rock that have been sculptured to make these routes were so worthless as ‘natural’ routes anyway. thats if someone was going to bother developing them, which they would not considering how blank and uninspiring they used to be.

‘oh’ people say ‘but “running with the bulls” could have been a chossy hard 31 crimp fest…’ Well then why didnt you go and bolt it yourself 5 years ago, or last year for that matter? put fucking ps in it if you want, but remember it will cost you almost $100 to put up said route.

the quarries are urban playgrounds people and i would rather a good quality, chipped 24 that 50 people will climb than (maybe) a nasty 30 that 1 person will climb for the glory and not for the beauty of the route.

as for the carrots, yep i curse M+J for putting in carrots everytime i remember to put bolt plates in my chalk bag. but you know what? theyre safe on the terrain that they place them in (slabs and vertical rock) and they have probably placed over 500 bolts in this state. thats $250 investment in bolts as opposed to $4000 for expandos or ps. unless you yourself pay money towards bolts/bolting/rebolting you have no valid opinion in this argument.

kudos M+J for keeping yourself and a dedicated few entertained.

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