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Well Mike….

I think your last post needs a response as i would hate to think that your narrow perspective may in anyway be accepted and become the normal way of thinking in Perth where the ethics and purity of climbing already hardly exist.

Around the world people climb to push themselves and their own limits. There are kids sending 34’s and some of the harder stuff is now breaching 36. 24/5 IS NOT HARD!!! This is currently the grade that social climbers end up settling at, the ones that just climb purely to hang out with their friends and go for a beer after. And that is totally fine. The problem with chipping all these routes to that level is that when the gym improves and the local scene gets more psyched, gear such as shoes gets better, the social grade should go up to say 26/7 yet there will be hardly anything above 25 so it wont. There goes the pushing your limits part of climbing for even the social climber. “Ah well… just spend more time in the gym. I’ve done everything at the quarry.”

I must admit i, many moons ago, have chipped a route at Mountain Quarry (Space Monkey 28) which i think is good and i chipped the top half which i thought was not doable. By this i mean it was probably harder than 34/5. Maybe i shouldn’t have chipped it? I definitely don’t condone chipping, not even in a quarry, now that i do stuff i used to think would be impossible.

Your comments;

“which they would not considering how blank and uninspiring they used to be”

“i would rather a good quality, chipped 24 that 50 people will climb than (maybe) a nasty 30 that 1 person will climb for the glory and not for the beauty of the route”

Why do you think we have the right on a public bit of rock to say that it is blank (ie too hard for us) and uninspiring (ie i don’t have a chance so i wont bother) and so should be changed. It is selfish to say we want 25’s and stuff those who want anything harder because theres only a few of them. And don’t insult 30 by saying it is nasty! Some of the best routes i have ever done have been around that grade. It all depends on your perspective of the sport (ie what style of climbing you like and at what grade). In 20 years i am certain Perth along with the rest of the world will be producing alot harder climbers. It is what happens when the sport gets bigger. People like Matt and Jim are ruining it for future generations and anyone who currently wants to push themselves past the social peak. Drilling a f*k off big jug in a granite wall IS PERMANENT!!!! Carrots..well…that sucks but at least bolts can be ripped out (ie pillar of Sophocles in the not too distant future) and possibly replaced


I would like CAWA with the perth communities consent to create some kind of governing body over development within the Perth area. Chipping in quarries should only be given the ok with a large groups consent that yes this route is probably not doable or harder than grade 40 or something. Outside the quarries chipping and reinforcing should be/is already a no go! There should be a bolting standard (sorry, no carrots.)

Oh, and mike. Implying that climbers climb 24 for its chipped beauty and anyone who climbs harder is just glory seeking is just down right stupid. Grow up.

Sorry for my rant! Gotta love the CAWA website 🙂

PS It is ok for a bit of rock not to have a route on it! Something for people to aspire to in the future.

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