Reply To: Climbing on CALM land – Stathams – Mar 19 2006

Rob,

I disagree with bolting well protected cracks. This is not done anywhere outside of France or ultrasoft limestone like Krabi (that I know of). I think most climbers do not want to see McBolting to provide for the LCDs (Lowest Common Denominators) or grade fantasies of L.H.FOOGs (Leader Heroes Fresh Out Of Gyms). But this is a bit academic as only <10% of climbs in WA are cracks.

Where we have gone wrong in WA is on routes that are unprotectable by trad. We have a simple correlation: harder grade=more bolts. I sinned there myself, not really thinking about this as I simply did not need more bolts on easy (for me) routes, but lately have come to accept this as unwise, well, selfish and cheap actually. I now think that every bolted route should be bolted well, to a standard that a fall from anywhere will not cause major injury (long recovery or disability-type).

But it is done, so now there is the respect and tradition argument, else it is open slate with egoes on both sides armed with equally good but misaligned arguments (and shut ears).

But bolting trad-protected routes to create variety and better safety? No sorry. There is little trad rock left within 2 hrs of Perth, please leave it alone. Or better still, toprope. When I was learning to climb, with Jon, we toproped every weekend for 2 years before getting on a lead. I could toprope 20 before I tried leading a trad 14. That was my safety margin. Now I sometimes onsight lead 23, trad or bolted. I can place trad gear so well that I do not care if the protection is bolted or trad, as long as it is adequate. My safety is time, my safety is experience. If time is of essence and interest in learning not present, I plead for toproping. Not McBolting.