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David Wyndham

@ed, the book Mark is referring to has a lot to say on the issue of shock-loading, and tying limiter knots. It is from lab testing of these sorts of systems that the equalette was born. It uses the same piece of cord you would use for a cordelette, just tied differently. I recommend reading the book, it is very in depth, copies can be found here


@Mark, I haven’t tried tying an equalette myself in the field but I can picture the issues you are having. Clove hitches by their nature will twist the rope, I’m not sure there is much you can do to avoid this. The longer the loops are the less of an issue the twists will be. I agree with ed though that you could always tie Alpine butterflies instead, or directional Fig-8s. I know John uses clove hitches in the book, but I don’t see that you have to.

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