Reply To: Grading the climb…

Dear Anon2. Rather than training in a gym all the time (which does help you improve) it is possible to get on routes which are above your level and by working them improve your grip strength, body tension and technique. I am well aware of muscle memory which does play a part in a redpoint of a worked route and also in training such as the few who do laps on cardiofunk at Mt Quarry. This is a grade 29 which is easily lapped by those that do not onsight 29 but the training with the use of muscle memory is great for power endurance. From my experience you are definetely fitter and stronger when you finally get the route.

As for Emils grading – Very Harsh – but maybe this critcism is what some routes need.