Reply To: Mountain quarry new route

I know a bit about the route on Skywalker as I recently bolted it.

I have been looking at the line for a while now as it looks like a powerful line up the main face with a great finish up premature evacuation.

Skywalker has changed considerably now that the block has dropped out and I cleaned it and pried the 2 flakes off under the roof. When I chipped it I was very mindful of not adding to Skywalker (hence why there is no bolt in the roof as this can be protected naturally). I personally don’t think any of chipped crimps towards the top of the lower wall add anything or lower the grade of Skywalker because:

1. They will be too low to use as feet and are of no use as hands on the route

2. They are drilled in and if you have climbed on drilled in holds you will know this does not really give anything for the feet.

3. There are heaps of better foot holds in the general area that are naturally occuring now the flakes have been removed.

However if I have inadventantly ditracted from skywalker in any way I will reinstate it with crushed quarry rock and aredilte.

The number of hangers is always hard when bolting a new route especially when you manufacturing it as there are no natural breaks / stances to put the clip. However it was bolted to ensure:

1. you get enough protection to ensure you don’t deck / hit the side wall at the start of star wars.

2. Get a bit of exposure running it out through the crux.

3. can use the bolts to work it

As for the climb it is still a closed project and no grade has been confirmed.

If you have any question or comments come and talk to me in person as I would much rather put a face to the name. I climb at Rockface on Tue/Thur and try to get out on the weekends.