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Matt Rosser


I will try Sylvia again soon. I climbed it around 4 months ago and agree it could have lost a hold – I pulled off a big hold when I was last on it.

I removed the loose block on Star Wars that you mentioned – it came off with little effort, though the climb is little changed and still a terrific line. I also checked the pegs. The middle peg needs to be replaced with a bolt immediately. It was rusty and a bit loose. Not replacing a peg for ethical reasons is not, in my opinion, worth the risk.

I looked over towards Vader but could not see the loose block – unless the whole corner is loose – but it has always been like that.

With regard grading of the Shield I will leave what I have already said above and add one more point. I would not compare The Shield to Hang Ten in determining grade. There are few 24s in the quarry to draw a comparison.

However, The Shield compares well with Star Wars 24 and outside the quarry with Karma 24. It is very similar with these climbs in that it is not the technical difficulty of any one move alone that has determined the grade, the number and consistency is also a part.

With regard the grades at Boya. I have not organised the consultative process that will provided consensus grades. However, I will ask some climbers to check the grades with me before publishing the Boya update. We will be printing an update for the Boya Quarry soon – we have new lines at Boya and one of Jims is particularly good. As always Jon your input will be valued.


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