Reply To: New climb at Willyabrup

Route left of Dolphin Smiles has 6 ring bolts could do with a max of three and probably placed differently to link in with available trad gear (this route follows the top half of Percy Pigsville which had been previously climbed on trad but was admitedly sketchy in the middle half of the top wall below the main break). For the route left of One for the Road the question is why was it even bolted, you need to steer clear of the coner to make the bottom half match the grade of the top half, the bottom bolt is high and once clipped I reckon the hard moves are over, to keep people away from the corner why wasn’t the second bolt placed further right and then there are two bolts above the roof and one would have done. For the route to the right of One for the Road, the need for first bolt is questionnable it is above the hard moves plus there is a small cam 1m’ish below it, the next bolt is not on hard moves (can’t remember off the top of my head what the gear was like) and the top arrete has three bolts the bottom one has great gear just below the roof and the top two could be done with one bolt (it seems there was a need to be a bolt at every move :-)). These are not just my thoughts but no one else was bold enough to speak up, as originally stated bolts have their place but the ethics seemed to have lapsed somewhat for these more recent climbs hence the concern of where it may lead to. Have you climbed these routes yourself, I would be keen to see if you agree.