Reply To: Possibly stupid protection

Hi Mick,

Thanks for the contribution. I do not understand some of your comments. Ethics do not come into it since I would not be damaging the climb. As long as I never claim to have completed the climb in the same fashion as the FA, why should other people have ethical problems with my protection? Even if I did make such a claim, it would only make me a twit, and shouldn’t harm the climbing experience for anyone else.

As for the loops failing, how are you envisioning this happening (this is what I really want to know and why I posted the first message)? If you think the rope might snap then I’ll quit climbing today. Or is there a way the knots can untie? Personally I cannot imagine the knots coming undone in such a way that would disconnect the quickdraw, but that’s why I asked the question (because I do not know everything).

Also, where does the rope-on-rope friction come from?

Cheers