Reply To: Possibly stupid protection

I’m pretty sure your suggesting leading with a dynamic rope as per norm and just using the static with loops to simulate say ring bolts , so I’ll assume that.

I definatley agree with using the alpine butterfly, If your not sure how to tie it check this animated instruction http://www.une.edu.au/unemc/alpbutt.htm

As already suggested make sure your anchor is absolutely bomber, You may also wish to anchor the bottm end so the static rope doesnt follow you up the route due to drag.

By the way… Is this an acceptable method to claim first accent ???

Roo