Home Forums Climbing Talk Protection on One for the Road, Wilyabrup Reply To: Protection on One for the Road, Wilyabrup

#9450
Lorin
Keymaster

Thanks Ryan!

That makes me feel better. I’m glad I don’t have to go and buy more gear just now.

Out of interest, where do you place the cam and hex as mentioned? On the overhang/roof itself, or just before it? Also, how deep in the crack? From memory, the crack is at least arm deep on the overhang.

I definitely like the idea of using more than one piece!

I’ve done the route a couple of times on top-rope… and yeah, each time I did the crux differently. There are good holds to both the left and the right as you come over the edge. The trick is finding them! And the choice of left or right made a big difference to how I did the move.

Cheers,

Lorin

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