Reply To: Re bolting of Urban Ethics (additonal bolt removed)

Hmmm, this is a delicate one.

It is generally regarded as a no-no to retrobolt a climb but what if the climb was not bolted adequately to begin with, especially when the route was top-roped to begin with and bolted on abseil? Is it then acceptable to add bolts to make the climb safe, or make it consistent with regards to bolt spacing?

Urban Ethics is climbed on all fixed gear that was placed on abseil and, I assume, top-roped before bolting and leading. Each bolt / piton (now replaced) is spaced about every 2m, except for the 4-5m gap where the offending retrobolt has been chopped. This “run out” (this is obviously debateable) section is not difficult compared to the grade of the climb but still requires care. I’ve led the route on many occasions and each time I’ve passed over this section and seen the chopped bolt (it was retrobolted and chopped before) I’ve thought that a bolt here would be worthwhile. It would make the spacing between all the fixed gear consistent and in my view would not diminish or change the feel of the climb.

I’d like to hear the opinions of other climbers on this matter. Obviously this is a contentious issue and there are probably other climbs where you could make a similar case for retrobolting.