Home Forums Bolting Statams – where’s the bolting ethics? Reply To: Statams – where’s the bolting ethics?

#8820
notPC
Member

Hi JB,

maybe you’re referring to the bolts that I put up about a year ago?

Without these bolts, the climbs on the slab are hard, or rather, impossible to protect, even if the climbs themselves are quite easy.

I think there is a definite lack of easy bolted routes around Perth. Many people want to learn how to lead-climb (on bolted routes) but most bolted routes start at grades 18+ and are often too hard for the beginner leader and I think it puts them off leading.

Well, now at Stathams, and also Mountain and elsewhere, there are a few easy and relatively ‘safe’ climbs (put up by various people) so the beginner leaders can practice and get their confidence up before trying some of the harder (and better!) climbs like Real Life Ambition or Urban Ethics or Hang Ten or whatever.

I think that the best way to learn how to lead is to start on easy trad climbs and work up – but these days, that’s not how it works. Most people these days learn to ‘lead’ on crap gym plastic and plywood and many never lead outdoors as they are freaked out on real rock. A number of times I have seen people that can lead a 24+ in the gym and then are totally freaked out on a 17 on rock. Well, now they can practice on grades 13 – 16 at SQ and MQ.

As for the anchors, yes, I agree that there are some big boulders up the top that can be used, but there are also a few issues with these. It’s easier and quicker to use the new ring-bolt anchors – you can spend more time climbing and less time stuffing around with anchors around ropes; then it is rather loose and crappy up the top and by going over the top there is an increased risk of crap falling down; less rope-drag and wear by going over the top. And of course you don’t have to use the ring-bolts – you can always just keep on going over the top if you want. Of course there are counter-arguments to all of these, as there always is.

I recently climbed some of the easy new climbs at MQ – I don’t think I will ever do them again – no point as they are so far under the grades I usually climb. Once a number of years ago I spent a day soloing that area – I probably wouldn’t now, but it was interesting to see what the ‘new’ bolted climbs were like.

Anyway, I will continue to put up easy climbs – not for myself, but for other people. I will also continue putting up harder climbs for myself and, hopefully, for others to enjoy as well.

If you don’t like the easy stuff, no problems, just stick to the harder stuff that you like.

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