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The last thing we want is DEC deciding they are responsible for bolts.

If DEC thinks about it, it’s also the last thing they want.

I would support a revision of the bolting code, (this would be done slowly with input from as many climbers as possible), but can also see situations where carrots would be best practise, ie, on lead when a hand-drill is all you’ve got.

It’s also true, glue-ins can fail, but if a climb is being bolted from abseil, you can not only install a glue-in, you can also check it.

As most people know my grades will most likely keep me off the present chipped quarry lines. Having said that, the quarry faces are in my mind, natural, the fact they are made by dynamite doesn’t change the fact that know-one planned them. So I have always felt the ethics of chipping in the quarries was questionable, but also I felt that bolting “Skywalker” in place was questionable. Removing the dangerous blocks may have left a better line, maybe not, but at least it would have been honest. Not everyone is going to agree with this point of view, but hey, discussion is good. Better than shooting each other.



As for Matt and Jim, I think they see themselves as purists keeping the anarchistic spirit of climbing alive, in a similar vein to the way some climbers, would put bolts just after the crux of a climb. They are not going to talk to DEC, CAWA or anybody else nor are thay likely to listen.

By the way, did I see someone say a DEC representative had told one of the re-bolters to stop?

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